Lessons learned

[onadraw]

Please correct me if I'm wrong but here are a few things that I think I learned today while attempting to Hone a Straight for the first time. I was using a new set of Norton whetstones.

1. Apparently it actually is important to flatten the stone surface. Even a brand new one.

2. Setting the Bevel seems quite important and it saves absolutely no time to rush this stage.

3. When the Stone starts to show pink/red colors, its time for a short break.

I'd be embarrassed to say how long I spent on this one razor today. I did many things wrong and had to repeat some steps.
At least the final result was good.

[Doc226]

Please correct me if I'm wrong but here are a few things that I think I learned today while attempting to Hone a Straight for the first time. I was using a new set of Norton whetstones.

1. Apparently it actually is important to flatten the stone surface. Even a brand new one.
Absolutely. Every stone needs to be flattened. Easiest is a DMT coarse plate. You can also use sandpaper on a counter.
2. Setting the Bevel seems quite important and it saves absolutely no time to rush this stage.
It is not quite important it is IMPERATIVE. Without a perfect bevel no point going on. Going to finer stones will be a complete waste of time
3. When the Stone starts to show pink/red colors, its time for a short break.
What? Did you bleed into your stone?
I'd be embarrassed to say how long I spent on this one razor today. I did many things wrong and had to repeat some steps.
At least the final result was good.

Congratulations if you were able to shave with a razor honed by you. That is terrific. Does not matter how long it took, speed will come in the future, concentrate on consistent light pressure strokes.

[LarryAndro]

One of my earliest razors broke me down so badly that I put it away for a few weeks before trying again. Believe me! We all have embarrassing experiences with these straight razors.

I have reached the same conclusion as you about the importance of setting the bevel. My practice might differ slightly from some, though, in the stones I use to set the bevel. In fact, I don't think of setting the bevel any more...

- I use the DMT 325 to create the blade's shape and sharpness.
- I use the 1K to finish the blade's sharpness and bevel.

The hones after the 1K usually fall into place like sheep IF I have done good work "setting the bevel."

[inspiringK]

snip
3. When the Stone starts to show pink/red colors, its time for a short break.

snip

Yes, lately I have also been taking knives up to the 8k mark on a Norton stone. Turns out my technique is slightly flawed in that the fingers I use to guide the blade are awfully close to the cutting edge. On the courser stones this fault has never been apparent. For whatever reason, the 8k just gets the blade over the hump where that slight contact nips the skin on the tips of those fingers. Once I see that pink/red slurry, I just assume the knife is sharp and stop right away…. or at least shortly thereafter.

Give the stones a good rinsing too, I imagine dry blood can really clog up a stone

[Obiwan]

Enough focus, posts, comments can't be made on the importance of the bevel. It's a good reminder for all.

[Woodash]

- I use the DMT 325 to create the blade's shape and sharpness.

Yowie! Really?

[LarryAndro]

In answer to Woodash and my use of the DMT 325...

Most vintage not used since 1920 razors have chips. If you doubt that, lightly drag the edge across a rough grit hone and hold it up to reflect light. You will see light and dark spaces, the dark sections of the blade being the chips or areas where the blade edge is lower and didn't contact the hone.

When starting to hone, I was mystified as to why blades seemed to not shave well despite me doing a "good job" honing. I believe that these "low bottom" sections of the blade that never touched the hone adequately explained most of these occurences.

If a blade is obviously nicely honed and has a great edge, I might start on the 8K or 4K or some other hone. I don't start on the DMT 325 all the time. But, very very few razors I buy are sharp light this. From some experience, I assume the edge is jagged, and I am almost always correct. And, so I start my honing by lightly dragging the blade on a rough grit hone to dull the blade, but more importantly establish a straight edge. (By straight I mean free of chips, and don't mean that it doesn't smile.)

Now, with a dulled blade as above, should I start on the 1K? Well, I could start there and hone for 45 minutes. Or, I can start on the DMT 325 and finish on the 1K in 10 minutes. The 1K will do just as well, but take much longer.

Don't think I am insisting on the rightness of this approach. The proof is in the shaving edge, and there are countless ways to get there. :)

[Sando]

2. Setting the Bevel seems quite important and it saves absolutely no time to rush this stage.

This is the whole shebang. The times I've missed an edge is mostly due to not setting the bevel in the first place. If you don't get a bevel with a low grit no amount of higher grit will help.

...Ray

[Obiwan]

Or, I can start on the DMT 325 and finish on the 1K in 10 minutes. The 1K will do just as well, but take much longer.

I have found myself using this approach as well for most blades (especially ebay pick ups).