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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
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    Bay Area, Ca
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    Default Rubberset Knot Removal

    I think I pretty much know the answer to this already, but wanted to double check to make sure I'm on the right track.

    Should all Rubberset knots be removed by drilling them out, or is there a better way to remove them? I recently purchased this brush for restore.



    Thanks!
    Tom

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Southern California
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    1,319

    Default

    There's also a steam method, not sure if it applies to Rubbersets. In regards to that picture posted, drill would work best.
    -Mario.
    It's all good, even when it's not.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
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    The Bluegrass State
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    3,228

    Default

    I would drill it out. I don't think the steam is a very safe way to go on any handle if you value it at all. if you have a drill and a dremel you should be good to go with about 10 minutes of work. It's easy just do it.
    Matt

  4. #4
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    Jan 2010
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    Thread Starter

    Default

    Thanks for the replies. I steamed a synthetic knot out of an acrylic Parker handle before and it worked pretty good. I would imagine that with the older handles, particularly wood, it would be better to error on the side of caution and go with the drill/ Dremel method.
    Tom

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
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    Honolulu, Hawaii
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    Default

    Two possibilities I recommend:
    1 drill / rotary tool / hand tool route. This is my usual method for knot removal and clean-up and works incredibly well, if somewhat time consuming (maybe a half hour to an hour to remove said knot)

    2 if the top half of the handle come off the base, you can do the hammer and screwdriver method and CAREFULLY tap out the base. Usually you can get large chunks of the knot this way with little effort. I did this to my current restore project nad it worked great!
    - Roy B (buma)

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Philly
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    254

    Default

    I recommend drilling/Dremel tool as well. I "limped along" in my first restore with a drill and a grinding stone and only took 20 minutes for the removal. For my latest restore, I used scissors to cut down the bristles, then used a Dremel on low speed with a steel cutting bit to remove most of the knot-set volume, finishing with a light application of a fine sanding drum. This removed the old knot and gave the adhesive plenty of "tooth" on the plastic surface to grip. I set knots with DAP waterproof silicone sealant. I have had trouble with epoxied knots pulling out. The "DAPped" knots don't. YMMV.

    And, don't forget to wear a dust mask and goggles.

    Here's my posting of the Eveready rebuild: http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthr...t=#post3956808
    Last edited by TAP119; 07-18-2012 at 09:22 PM. Reason: to add a link to another posting by me.
    The Timor-ous Beastie

 

 

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