When restoration goes wrong .....

**casus4844** · 07-08-2012, 02:04 AM

So I tried to remove some inner rust in the pins after doing some hard work with hand sanding. I usually some vinegar and I let it sit for 5 minutes and brush the problems off. So I needed some vinegar and I ran out so while I was coming back from a big city I decided let me pick up some along the way. I asked in Korean where's the vinegar and a lady pointed me to this

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. I asked her was she sure and she said yes. I said ok I'll take it. Took it home and did my 5 minute dip. And then this happened

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. Yep thats a Toyo Orient and and Hana tombo that I just won in an auction along with the Kamisori on the bottom. Luckilly they weren't brand new razors.... but still.The blue part is bad but the scales are beyond repairable. They bend erasers. I feel like such an idiot....

**GreekGuy** · 07-08-2012, 02:08 AM

Major bummer man. At least the blades are still in good shape. Far worse tragedies have happened. Think about it on the positive side, you get to choose some new scales

**Legion** · 07-08-2012, 02:22 AM

I don't understand why the vinegar dip in the first place. Vinegar is acidic. My logic tells me that would rust the razor, or at the very least put a dark patina on it.

When knife makers do it they call it "forcing a patina", and they dilute the vinegar quite a lot. You can also use mustard.

It eating the scales like that is a surprise. Bummer. They must have been some sort of acetate?

**casus4844** · 07-08-2012, 02:25 AM

I had good luck with removing rust before. I tried cola also but that left a darker patina. The vinegar I use is usually 6-7%... I have no idea what this one is.

Scales... Yeah I know. I already a trade in on the BST. I got one but now looks like I need two more... I'm wondering if I should trade the kami or another CJB razor for rescales... Well I have to wait two weeks for that to happen.

**Doc226** · 07-08-2012, 06:00 AM

Yikes

**ladykate** · 07-08-2012, 06:42 AM

I saw your post on B/S/T - now I see why. Bummer. Like was said, at least the metal is OK.

I wonder if that stuff was drain cleaner? Wouldn't want to use it on food after seeing that mess.

**alitkty** · 07-09-2012, 06:59 AM

Try not to use cola and dont dip the scales.. Some oil dipping and sanding might help more.

**casus4844** · 08-22-2012, 07:05 AM

Quick question for everyone here. I got some wood and gonna prepare some scales, but I wanted to ask if anyone has any expertise in cleaning these blades. I'm having a hard time in cleaning in between blade. I hate looking at the line in the middle being dirty and I don't see many of these kinds of blades here so I'm curious who has tackled it. I have a dremel and polishing paste that I've had success with other blades. Should I use the metal brush on it??

**BakerAndBadger** · 08-22-2012, 09:16 AM

Yeah, I'd suggest the brush. I have a TI that I half attempted to restore, it's a frameback too but has a horrible bit that curves down to the tang and the blade fits into it as well. I gave up trying to get that bit clean but where the blade goes into he spine wasn't a worry with the metal brush.

**kirk 988** · 08-22-2012, 05:22 PM

thats a shame.
I wouldnt of used vinegar it forces a patina
works well on an opinel though not razors that you want shiney

**Legion** · 08-22-2012, 05:33 PM

I wouldnt use the metal brush unless you want a buttload of scratches on your blade. Keep the Dremel away from your razor. Try polishing paste on a cloth which is wrapped around a thin edge, like maybe a butter knife, to get into the corners.

**kirk 988** · 08-22-2012, 06:05 PM

Originally Posted by legion

I wouldnt use the metal brush unless you want a buttload of scratches on your blade. Keep the Dremel away from your razor. Try polishing paste on a cloth which is wrapped around a thin edge, like maybe a butter knife, to get into the corners.

i agree on the use no brush comment. athough they are good on jimps that are filled with rust or patina

**DEGuy** · 08-22-2012, 06:14 PM

Naval Jelly re removing rust: We used to use Naval Jelly for removing rust because it would not act upon the metal it was de-rusting. Used it on car rims and old razors, but only on the metal portion of a straight razor. Used to use a Q-tip to apply or an inexpensive artist's brush (purchased from hardware store). Haven't had to do this in years, but Naval Jelly is still used for removing rust from all kinds of oxidized metal products.

Note that after doing this if there are pits in the metal from the rust, you'll see them. But it is the least invasive method I know of for safely removing rust from various metals.

**paco664** · 08-22-2012, 08:39 PM

dang Andy that sucks....

any idea what that stuff is??? other than scary...

**casus4844** · 08-22-2012, 09:03 PM

I did ALOT of hand sanding with these and 3 other japanese framebacks that I have that were dirty, pitted and so on. I was thinking about Naval jelly but I think I read from somewhere here not to use it because it will damage the blade ( correct me if I'm wrong, I'm no expert hence the question.) So before I go down that road I'll grab the butter knife and MAAS and see if it will correct the problem. I had some success of removing pitting with diamond paste on the dremel... but I don't think it can touch that area. So no metal brush, butter knife wrapped with paper and MAAS around it, and if someone can confirm the naval jelly, that will be the final step..

I'll be fixing them this weekend so I'll post up the pics after. Then honing these these things... To tape or not to tape will be the questions for the future.

**DEGuy** · 08-22-2012, 09:37 PM

If you do some research on uses for naval jelly, many companies manufacture the product, you'll find specific information on using it on various metals. It is not recommended for plastics or some other polymers and I would not use in on any polymer, synthetic or natural, razor handles, being mindful of how you apply it. Some companies do not recommend using it on chrome products, however, I've used it on chrome, after running a trail, and had excellent results. The key is to rinse the finished product thoroughly when the process is complete. I can speak to you from personal experience alone. Researching the product and the various manufacturers' offerings is the best tact, in my opinion.

**BakerAndBadger** · 08-22-2012, 09:40 PM

Well my comment was posted with love at least!

**casus4844** · 08-22-2012, 10:14 PM

Originally Posted by BakerAndBadger

Well my comment was posted with love at least!

Don't worry its ok :)

And the Naval jelly issue was with the phosphoric acid containing it and how it it possible to blacken the blade.

**DEGuy** · 08-23-2012, 05:38 PM

Casus4844: Quite right, and we have to mindful, as you know, when using any acid to 'clean' and de-rust metal. There's no question that is some risk involved, the trick is to limit it to the product alone. I wish you well with your restoration. Have you looked up how-to restore the metal on a straight razor? Might be worthwhile.

**casus4844** · 08-23-2012, 06:49 PM

I have. From compounds with a dremel, to electrolysis rust removal, and finally to the just good old hand sanding. From this forums to the "other forum". It's that middle part that I really want to get rid of and I'd like to have as low risk as possible.

Originally Posted by DEGuy

Casus4844: Quite right, and we have to mindful, as you know, when using any acid to 'clean' and de-rust metal. There's no question that is some risk involved, the trick is to limit it to the product alone. I wish you well with your restoration. Have you looked up how-to restore the metal on a straight razor? Might be worthwhile.