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  1. #1
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    Default Treet Classic blades...anything I need to know about cleaning or drying?

    Many thanks to the wonderful people at Razorbladesandmore, I got a free pack of Treet Classic blades with my order. Are these carbon steel blades, and if so, do I do anything special after I use the blade? Do I need to dry it carefully? I seem to recall threads about carbon blades rusting or somehow needing more post shave care, but I do not remember the specifics. Any suggestions or guidance would be deeply appreciated.

  2. #2
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    Yes, Treet Classics are carbon steel, and so should be dried thoroughly (and carefully!), and stored outside the razor in a dry environment between shaves. If you're going to use them more than once, that is.
    John - ALPHA Team founding member (Faceman)

  3. #3
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    Personally, is use silica gel bags to eleminate moisture from where I store my blade. Added with the previous post suggestions, I think it's about all.
    One martini is all right. Two are too many, and three are not enough. - James Thurber

  4. #4
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    Carbon steel holds a sharper edge - and for much longer than stainless steel, provided you care for the blade properly after each use.

    Pick up a bottle of 91% isopropyl alcohol and a bottle of mineral oil (in the laxative section) from your local drugstore. Pick up two containers with close/tight fitting lids from your local dollar store. Fill one with the alcohol and the other with the mineral oil.

    After you finish shaving, rinse your razor in the hottest water you can get from your tap. Immediately immerse and swish it around for a few seconds in the alcohol, then shake it off in the open air for a couple of seconds. Now dip your razor into the mineral oil and swish it around for another couple of seconds. Remove it from the oil and shake off any excess into your sink. Place your razor in your rack or where ever you keep it between shaves.

    You're good to go for your next shave.

    I use Treet carbon steel blades and get three excellent BBS shaves from every blade. Never ever had any oxidation issues/rusting because the alcohol displaces the water and the mineral oil seals the edges from atmospheric oxygen. (I do the same for my stainless steel blades, too.)

    Hope this helps!

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  5. #5

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    Personally, Treet is the only blade that gives me an awful shave.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by man00ver View Post
    Yes, Treet Classics are carbon steel, and so should be dried thoroughly (and carefully!), and stored outside the razor in a dry environment between shaves.
    +1.. You know Cadinsor, a few replies above should illustrate the YMMV aspect of classic shaving for you. Treat Classic may not be the bee's knees but Feather is the only blade out of my considerable blade collection that I often have to ditch midway through the second shave if I use them more than once.

  7. #7
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    All right, as I hoped...the full spectrum of options. I am going to try this from left to right as it were. First shave will one and done. Second blade I will just dry, air dry, and see what it looks like in the morning. Next day I will try the isopropyl alcohol. This sounds like fun!

  8. #8
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    I keep it simple. Rinse blade, lay on open hand towel, fold hand towel and "pat' the blade dry. Put blade in container with a silica gel packet and put away until next day.
    Tom--- Founding member of The ALPHA Team!
    If laughter is the best medicine then why do sick people go to doctors instead of comedians?

  9. #9

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    I get three very smooth and enjoyable, if not particularly close, shaves with Treet Classics (which I really like as a change-of-pace blade in my rotation). As with other blades, after shaving I merely loosen the head of the razor, rinse it in hot water, shake it, towel dry the razor (but not the blade), and put it on its stand. Nothing special--and never a problem with rust.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mandina View Post
    Nothing special--and never a problem with rust.
    Then you must have excellent water and weather. Water I get is so hard, the Carbon blades rust like iron nails.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by HoosierTrooper View Post
    I keep it simple. Rinse blade, lay on open hand towel, fold hand towel and "pat' the blade dry. Put blade in container with a silica gel packet and put away until next day.

    +1 this works fine.
    Currently enrolled in Dr. Drew's HAD Rehab.

  12. #12

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    I live in South Florida and have very hard water (as we live on top of limestone), but have had no rust problems. Perhaps it's also due to the humidity-reducing effect of air conditioning.

  13. #13

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    Hard water (high pH) shouldn't rust the blades as fast as soft water (low pH -- more acidic) does but your point on and AC is well taken.

  14. #14
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    Wasn't impressed much by the Treet carbon blades. Plus when you add the need for "maintenance" or cleaning I'm staying away

  15. #15
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    Hello again, and thanks for all the advice. So far i have only used one blade, in my Flair tip, two pretty good shaves. All i have done is rinse the blade, dried it with a towel, gently blew on it to dry it even further, and stored it back in my razor. No rust so far. Actually really loking the blade, need to try it in my Merkur 180 as well.

    I know, I know...too simple by far! So, for all you B&B gents, today i will dry the blade in my yogurt maker for 15 mins and buff it with my Tom Bihn micro suede cloth.

  16. #16

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    Hey, I'm glad I found this post, I just finished going through 3 treet classics and was thinking huh... these aren't bad! I used each blade for maybe 3-4 shaves, and after using them, I just rinsed off, patted the razor dry with the blade in it, then just set it aside to air dry till next use... didn't notice any rusting.
    - Evan TOFLAC-U

  17. #17
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    3-4 shaves each for me, just rinse razor (with blade still inside), shake once or twice and set on towel to dry. Have never seen any rust.
    ..wasn't lookin' too good but I was feeling real well

  18. #18
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    I think Treet Carbon is the big "in joke" of the wet shaving community. Frankly I do not think they are really blades, just pieces of unsharpened metal stamped into an object that vaguely resembles a blade.

    Everytime one of us posts about how they shave there is some guy at Treet headquarters in Pakistan surfing this board and laughing his ass off.
    "This is Mrs. Bencours, one of my patients. She thinks she's a sheep." - Gene Wilder

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by HoosierTrooper View Post
    I keep it simple. Rinse blade, lay on open hand towel, fold hand towel and "pat' the blade dry. Put blade in container with a silica gel packet and put away until next day.

    +1 - THE answer.

    You should not "wipe" any blade. There are 2 reasons for this. The obvious reason is that you can cut yourself. The other reason is that most blades have a microscopic coating and wiping them will remove it which will make the blade harsh once the coating that helps them glide is gone.

    I use the towel, fold, and pat method for all blades, stainless and carbon.

    I then place the blade on an empty blade wrapper where it can fully air dry until the next day. Nn matter how much you try to make an unfolded wrapper flat it always sticks up. This helps keep the blade elevated so that it can dry on both sides. For my SE carbon blades that are heavier I place them on the unfolded cardboard wrapper which is standing on its edge

    I've never gotten any spots or oxidation on carbon blades doing this but my bathroom is large and rather dry as the shower is in a different room then the sink.

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  20. #20
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    Shake the razor in the sink, bring the side of head near your mouth and blow sideways across the head. This should get rid of most of the moisture on the blade, it will dry fine after that.

 

 

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