Axes!

Acmemfg said:

I use an axe a lot up here in the hills. Have a few...Husqvarna Hatchet (1.5 head)
Husqvarna Multi-Purpose Traditional Forestry Axe (1.9 lb. head), an Estwing Camp hatchet (anyone NOT own one of these?), Council Tool Boy's Axe (2.2 lb head) and Council Tool Dayton pattern Felling Axe (3.5 lb. head). I use a 10 inch bastard file to maintain them all. Occasionally I'll touch them up with one of those hockey puck shaped stones. Don't ever want to use a grinding wheel.
I agree with Dad.

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What was dad's reasoning for that?

Raissermesser said:

I was specifically forbidden to use a bench grinder on an ax. My father had the opinion that it was too easy to mess around and ruin the temper on the edge. We talked about rigging two old fashioned grindstones to a step pedals and water troughs, but never got around to it.

BTW, we did use bench grinders on lawn mower blades.

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well...yeah, if you get too carried away and put too much pressure on it, you could remove the temper. I would contend though that how do you think they shape the edge of an ax at the factory? With a file? I think not.

Fiskars X27 is the best axe I've used. its not pretty but I can split wood easy with little effort

I love using my Fiskars axes but my Wetterlings hunters axe is hard to beat for carrying and using in the bush. The hand forged head has a lot more character than the other factory axes.

Let me give my warning.

I used a brand new youth axe on Osage Orange, a really tough wood.

That Orange tree put a dent in my axe immediately.

I would say that using an axe on Osage Orange wood is dangerous to the axe.

This is my baby:

It's a Case hatchet made before WWII and belonged to my father. That's the original sheath and handle.

Wetterlings makes a great axe. Once upon a time they made the axes for Husquvarna. Now they are made by Hults Bruks; another Swedish manufacturer. They're a pretty solid axe also. Mine are true workhorses. The Forest Axe mows down trees with <10" trunks like a Zowada blade clears 3 days of growth

My axes are the Gransfors Bruks SFA and a Gerber pack axe.

As per the OPs questin, Gransfors Bruks does sell an Axe Stone for their axes as another option for maintenance.

Congratualtions! I have a few Gransfors axes; Hunter's, Wildlife hatchet, and a spitting maul. Also an Ox Head forestry axe and spitting axe. I bring the Hunter's axe camping most of the time.

Tom

Dad has a pair of BSA hatchets we carry camping along with a Bow saw and a pair of Machetes. One BSA is pre WW2 and the other is from the 1950's.

Biggest misconception about axes. It seems that a lot of people think that double bits have one side for chopping and one for slitting. Wrong. Both edges are for chopping down trees. When logging was done by hand. The double bit axe was in use so the wood cutter would not have to stop and sharpen his axe as often. He just turned it over and used the other edge. Also a double bit should never be used as a splitting axe. The blade is too thin and the handle will get damaged.

I've had a Wetterlings for a dozen or so years.

I like Fiskars. It was pricey but for me well worth it.

I use a lot of smaller axe heads. I get vintage ones cheap off the bay. I like them on 30" handles. Much easier for carrying in the woods than the big boys.

I find most axes have entirely too much steel close to the business edge. I use a big belt sander on low clamped in my vise to shape axes. I start the bevel a couple inches back. I leave a wider spot about a third the way down from the top and an Inc back as it helps pop the chips when felling.

A file cleans up the edge. A whetstone refines it if wanted.

Axes are great, but my Stihl is nice too!

regards

Kit Walker said:

This is my baby:

It's a Case hatchet made before WWII and belonged to my father. That's the original sheath and handle.

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That is a nice axe head!

A serious question ... I lean towards khukuries: good enough for the ghurkas, good enough for me.

Himalayan Imports sells hand-made khuks, reasonably. I have a bunch. Some are for wood, some are for brush, some are weapons. Some do all three.


AA

Acmemfg said:

Wetterlings makes a great axe. Once upon a time they made the axes for Husquvarna. Now they are made by Hults Bruks; another Swedish manufacturer. They're a pretty solid axe also. Mine are true workhorses. The Forest Axe mows down trees with <10" trunks like a Zowada blade clears 3 days of growth

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How much does the forest axe weigh?

1.9 pounds. Another great forestry axe is made in the USA (North Carolina) by Council Tool. Their 2.2 lb. "Boy's Axe" is another solid performer and is about 1/3 the cost of the Husqvarna. I have both, keep one (the Council Tool) in the truck. Living up here in the mountains, it is not uncommon to have to chop on a fallen tree in order to get through a backwoods road. The 2.2 axe does just fine on small to medium/large trees. Either will serve you well. The Husqvarna does seem a tad easier to sharpen.

Acmemfg said:

1.9 pounds. Another great forestry axe is made in the USA (North Carolina) by Council Tool. Their 2.2 lb. "Boy's Axe" is another solid performer and is about 1/3 the cost of the Husqvarna. I have both, keep one (the Council Tool) in the truck. Living up here in the mountains, it is not uncommon to have to chop on a fallen tree in order to get through a backwoods road. The 2.2 axe does just fine on small to medium/large trees. Either will serve you well. The Husqvarna does seem a tad easier to sharpen.

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That's the size I like to carry. I always have to get a longer handle, people usually put shorties on the boys axe size heads. Thanks for the info.

I have a Fisker's hatchet. A small Gerber Gator (also Fisker's, BTW) belt hatchet with a small knife in the blade and a couple of Blackjack tomahawks form Crazy Crow (a Native American/fur trade reenactment supplier, www.crazycrow.com). The Hawks are wonderful throwers. I also have a couple of their Steel Maiden throwing knives...