Scale Spacer Question

[Alum of Potash]

A few weeks back, I found a nice, used, sculpted spine ~6/8 T-I razor at a local flea market. It had rust in the pivot area, so I ordered a new pair of walnut, T-I style scales for 6/8 and removed the old scales to attack the rust there. Now, having sized things and drilled the holes for the pivot in the new scales, I find that the scales aren't spaced apart enough. The shank of the razor is 5mm where it meets the spine, tapering to 3.5mm at the pivot area. So the spacer, made of some sort of hardened, glued plastic, seems to be the problem area. Any suggestions on how to remove the glued spacer and replace it with something wider without disrupting the scales' finish? Or should I just count on sanding the scales down and refinishing them as well? I am thinking to use art-tech basswood as a replacement spacer for convenience's sake. Is there anything better than this cut to a pre-specified thickness? and what would a recommended spacer thickness be for a 5mm shank tapering to 3.5mm?

[Kentos]

Can you post a pic? The pivot width should be enough. Did you put back the thrust washers ?

[brother cavefish]

very hard, you have to sand carefully til its gone ,don t hit the scale itself---- if not done right your next spacer will have a "space" in it, another way more dangerous is too use a table saw with out the guard on, and steadily slide it against the stabilizer while the blade is turning--- spacers are the hardest part for me in rescaling my blades-------- because i angle them as to wishbone the scales, if the tang of the blade tapers to the trigger/monkeytail------you menioned it tapers, so you cant use a even spacer- the blade will bind on the shoulder or somewhere on the thick part of the spine, (this situation is a stress fitting)in time it will crack at the pivot, you want a relaxed fitting
the scales will need to wrap around the tang to meet the angle of the tang-here is a picture-you SEE how it Y's out, when I close it to secure the blade it will wrap AROUND the blade, the Center of the scales will have a Wider space then the ends , when all put together,
THEN while opening and closeing the razor you will have minimum flex in the scales

[Alum of Potash]

Can you post a pic? The pivot width should be enough. Did you put back the thrust washers ?

I'll post a pic when I have a chance. The original plastic scales did not have washers. I picked up the smallest washers to be found at "Mr. Bricolage" (French Home Depot) today, and they look like they might do the trick regarding spacing, but I don't like how large the washers' holes are. A small version of a Fender washer would be better, although these should remain hidden by the scales. They're also zinc plated. Don't know how this will stand up to humidity, but in theory, the pivot never should get wet anyway. A source for small Fender washers anyone? I'll be returning to the States in a couple of weeks, so maybe I can search for some then.

[ladykate]

A source for small Fender washers anyone? I'll be returning to the States in a couple of weeks, so maybe I can search for some then.

I wouldn't use zinc coated steel. It will rust eventually. You can get brass or stainless fender washers on eBay or you can order #0 with 0 width - which is an almost fender washer... smack it a few times with your peening hammer and then drill out the hole and it will work. Microfasteners has them for a very reasonable price.

[Alum of Potash]

very hard, you have to sand carefully til its gone ,don t hit the scale itself---- if not done right your next spacer will have a "space" in it, another way more dangerous is too use a table saw with out the guard on, and steadily slide it against the stabilizer while the blade is turning--- spacers are the hardest part for me in rescaling my blades-------- because i angle them as to wishbone the scales, if the tang of the blade tapers to the trigger/monkeytail------you menioned it tapers, so you cant use a even spacer- the blade will bind on the shoulder or somewhere on the thick part of the spine, (this situation is a stress fitting)in time it will crack at the pivot, you want a relaxed fitting
the scales will need to wrap around the tang to meet the angle of the tang-here is a picture-you SEE how it Y's out, when I close it to secure the blade it will wrap AROUND the blade, the Center of the scales will have a Wider space then the ends , when all put together,
THEN while opening and closeing the razor you will have minimum flex in the scales

Thanks for the advice and the pix. FWIW, I was able to knock off the plastic spacer of the original scales pretty cleanly with a chisel. Were I to reuse them, just a few passes on some sandpaper would probably do the trick to make the interior flush for a new spacer. Hopefully, the same will be the case for the replacement scales. The problem for me is shaping the spacer, once it's installed. If I sand it flush, then the scales will need to be resanded and refinished. Perhaps it might be better to arrive at an ever so slightly recessed spacer (wider than the original), to make things easier in this case. Angling it to create a wishbone, as you suggest, might help here. The original plastic scales have a convex bow to them, which may be due to an angled spacer.

[Alum of Potash]

I wouldn't use zinc coated steel. It will rust eventually. You can get brass or stainless fender washers on eBay or you can order #0 with 0 width - which is an almost fender washer... smack it a few times with your peening hammer and then drill out the hole and it will work. Microfasteners has them for a very reasonable price.

Thanks, I'll look into this.

[brother cavefish]

I wouldn't use zinc coated steel. It will rust eventually. You can get brass or stainless fender washers on eBay or you can order #0 with 0 width - which is an almost fender washer... smack it a few times with your peening hammer and then drill out the hole and it will work. Microfasteners has them for a very reasonable price.

If you really need a internal washer , sometimes it does help the movement--------- yes you can smash a scale pin washer , and redrill the center- i have not used many washers

[Kentos]

Let me know if you need some stainless and I'll send you a pair.

[Slash McCoy]

Brass ones are easy to make.

[Alum of Potash]

Thanks guys. I'm going to put things on hold here until I return to the States. And thanks, Kent, for your offer. Let me look around first once I'm back, before I send you a PM. ;-)

[Kentos]

Thanks guys. I'm going to put things on hold here until I return to the States. And thanks, Kent, for your offer. Let me look around first once I'm back, before I send you a PM. ;-)