Tips for trouble spots?

[johne123]

I've done about 10 wet shaves with a DE now. (parker 22r - i like the handle and it was cheap while im learning)

The good news, I never use to be able to shave my neck every day with a twin blade cartridge. Now every day is just fine, no razor burn or ingrowns on my neck! I did have a problem on my 2nd wet shave but I found out I was using way too steep and angle and tried too many passes. So , for now I'm just doing one pass there and may work my way up later.

The thing I could use help with are some other trouble spots. Obviously my chin is difficult, but I figure I just need practice being consistent with the right angles. However in the middle of my cheeks I have a few hairs here and there that have an uncanny ability to escape being shaved. Every hair around them behaves, but there are a few on each side that won't cooperate. Xtg doesn't get them, and atg gives me razor burn. I'm getting what I think is really good later with MWF, lather in a bowl. If I follow directions I've read I get way too much lather for three passes. Anyway, apply to face in a circlular pattern, then brush it out. Maybe I should make sure to brush up more to help those hairs stand up. Anything else?

Also I don't remember this problem with a Personna red blade. Only with the derby I just used for four shaves. In retrospect I shouldn't be changing blades as I'm learning, but wanted to ask about this possible blade difference too.

Thanks for your help.

[CharlieFoxtrot]

I have a similar problem. First, ditch the Derby's and stick with the Red IP's. If they work for you then there is no need to change them. Secondly, I've had much more success face lathering; especially with MWF. Face lathering guarantees proper hydration of the soap and raises the hair in the trouble spots. Also, try XTG in both directions if you don't want to try an ATG pass yet.

[mistervee123]

Derby works for me, but a lot of people don't like them. My fav' blade right now is the Feather, but it does require a light touch. Anyway, it sounds as if we have the same problem areas. In order to get those pesky whiskers in the hollow of the cheeks, I do either blade buffing or multi-directions shaving by going over the area E-W, W-E, N-S, NW-Se, you get the picture. I come at the whiskers from different directions til I find a direction or a few directions that work. The chin is all practice and technique, you're right.

[Forestsandman]

Two things you could try:

1) Lather your face with your brush like normal. Then with your fingertips, massage the cream into your skin. This might help to lift up those whiskers that the brush isn't strong enough to get to. Worth a shot.

2) You could also try puffing some air into your cheeks to see if that helps them stand up a bit more.

[bpire2002]

same here, also the bottom of my neck seems to be difficult.

[Whilliam]

Practice, patience, and a handy styptic pencil helped me master my chin.

Now I just shave the damn thing without a second thought.

It CAN be done. Stick with B&B for the hints, tips and moral support you need.

And welcome!

[johne123]

ok. I'm an idiot. Or, just had a hard time finding the right angle on a Derby blade that I started to use an angle that really was scraping my face. After reviewing the articles in the wiki I found I was using the correct angle originally, but still got burn and ingrowns on my neck. But that was with two with the grain passes and a cross the grain pass. The suggestions of starting with only with the grain - I guess I forgot that too. Anyway, that brand new Derby would keep pulling. So I rotated the razor until it didn't pull anymore, but that meant scraping my face. I stopped multiple passes on my neck, but multi passes on my checks led to lots of razor burn there.

I was already at 4 shaves with the Derby so grabbed a new red IP (that stands for Israeli Personna, right?) and did a mild only with the grain shave this morning to give my skin a chance to heal a little. I still need to try puffing out my cheeks, and should probably also try to stretch the skin.

Other problem I found was i probably had no where near enough water in my lather. Last night I made practice batches with Mitchells Wool Fat and a sample of Razorock WestCoast just sent me. I kept adding water until I went too far. Some of the articles about building lather just seem to say add water. Feeling the lather as I built, also helping to know when I was getting close. And online pictures to show what looks like enough water and not enough water don't seem to do it justice.

And, a new question, if you don't mind. As i mentioned I'm using a Parker 22R, a twist to open design. The blade doesn't center on the bar in the middle. So, one side can have twice the blade exposure of the other side. I have to center it manually before I tighten down. I've tried three different brands of blades, doesn't make difference. WestCoast Shaving sent me a replacement razor, but it has what looks to be the exact same amount of play. Do other Twist To Open razors have this issue? What about 2 or 3 piece designs?

Well, at least I'm getting better around my chin.

[CharlieFoxtrot]

The only TTO's I use are the vintage Superspeeds. They all center perfectly. Parker could have quality control issues. I have a few three piece DE's, Gillette New through Merkur 33c, and there is no room for misalignment. I find the red IP's to be sharper and smoother to Derby, but they are not my favorite. YMMV obviously. I find that the sharper the blade equals less passes and irritation. You may want to consider face lathering. It really does take the guess work out of building lather. I keep a bowl of hot water next to the sink and add water to the tip of the brush as necessary. The bonus is that it counts towards beard prep.

[gus1942]

I've done about 10 wet shaves with a DE now. (parker 22r - i like the handle and it was cheap while im learning)

The good news, I never use to be able to shave my neck every day with a twin blade cartridge. Now every day is just fine, no razor burn or ingrowns on my neck! I did have a problem on my 2nd wet shave but I found out I was using way too steep and angle and tried too many passes. So , for now I'm just doing one pass there and may work my way up later.

The thing I could use help with are some other trouble spots. Obviously my chin is difficult, but I figure I just need practice being consistent with the right angles. However in the middle of my cheeks I have a few hairs here and there that have an uncanny ability to escape being shaved. Every hair around them behaves, but there are a few on each side that won't cooperate. Xtg doesn't get them, and atg gives me razor burn. I'm getting what I think is really good later with MWF, lather in a bowl. If I follow directions I've read I get way too much lather for three passes. Anyway, apply to face in a circlular pattern, then brush it out. Maybe I should make sure to brush up more to help those hairs stand up. Anything else?

Also I don't remember this problem with a Personna red blade. Only with the derby I just used for four shaves. In retrospect I shouldn't be changing blades as I'm learning, but wanted to ask about this possible blade difference too.

Thanks for your help.

Lets do some other directions for lather. If you have too much lather for 3 passes, you have two choices, chuck some lather, or don't use as much product. I face lather so I can adjust on the go. There is nothing wrong with coming up short on lather for your 3 passes, just add what you need.

[Straight Rasier User]

Welcome to B&B.

Check out the Mantic 59 Viedos on YouTube.

Check out the GeoFatboy Viedos on YouTube (ShaveNation.com)

Get your technique down.

And the rest is general information.


Everything boils down to personal preferences.


“Best Brush”

A Brush is a Brush and they perform differently and they are different. Boar, Badger, Horsehair, Horsehair/Boar/Badger Combos, or Syns. Get a Boar (cheap or expensive) or a Good Badger Brush.


“Soap/Cream/Stick”

Soap or Cream or Stick ... Stick or Cream or Soap ... cheap or expensive ... expensive or cheap ... glycerin based, cold processed, tripled milled, or tallow. Get a couple of each and see what works best for you.

“Safety Razor”

Safety Razors ... determine what you want and how much you are willing to spend - Open Comb, Closed Comb, TTOs, 2-Piece, 3-Piece or an adjustable. The Merkur HD or Edwin Jagger 89 are both good beginning Safety Razors. Or get an Old Gillette (SuperSpeed or 3-Piece).


“Razor Blades”

Blades ... Get a Sampler Pack and then ... Good Luck. The differences between whether a Blade is Good or Bad for any individual is because the Hand of God is at work. Maybe it is the shave preparation, or maybe it is the type of hairs being shaven, or maybe it is the patterns on the face being shaven, or the type of Razor being used (different angles or blade gaps are created by the different razor head being used), or the shaving technique being used (wrong angle, too much pressure being used and pushing down on the razor to "cut closer", or even not using multiple-passes to reduce hair growth first and always), or maybe there is one or two Bad Blades in the pack being used, or maybe for whatever reason it is a Bad Blade to you.


”Best Blade”

At first use only One Razor Blade ... use this blade only for a few weeks ... changing when dull.

The First Razor Blade you use is your “Best Blade.”

Get several of your First Best Blade.

Get down the Basics of Shaving – Preparation, Lathering, Shaving with the Razor – light touch, proper angle and little pressure, Multi-Passes – WTG, XTG, and Reverse-XTG.

Get more information and look at the Mantic59 Youtube videos, the GeoFatBoy videos and read the Wiki.


“Finding Your Best Blade”

After you have everything down ... then use a different blade for a week and see if it becomes your new "Best Blade".

If not go back to the other blade for a week then, use a different blade for a week.

Your Best Blade is your base line blade for your tests. When you find your “Next Best Blade” then, that is your “New Best Blade”. Continue working through your sampler pack looking for a “New Best Blade”.

Please note that Different Safety Razors may have a different “Best Blade” and if you have poor technique then it will also affect your choice of a “New Best Blade”.

“Map Your Face”

Make Sure you have Mapped Your Face because that is the only way to know which way your hair grows.

“Technique”

Also make sure that your preshave preparation is down.

Then shave WTG, XTG and Reverse-XTG.

Rinse, Lather, WTG
Rinse, Lather, XTG
Rinse, Lather, Reverse-XTG
Rinse, Lather, Buffing.

No Rinse, No Lather, No Shave.

For the first few weeks ... Do not do ATG ... Wait until you have your technique down because you could and usually will be holding the safety razor upside down when shaving your neck and this may cause you some problems when trying to maintain the correct blade angle while applying a light pressure.

Be careful of Feather blades as they are super sharp and unforgiving make sure you are confident of your technique before using them.

Have Fun Shaving and May All Your Shaves Be BBS.