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  1. #1
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    Default My first resto. Ever-Ready 200T

    this is my first restoration attempt. It is a blue/green & white(?) Ever Ready 200T. I got it and it was covered in a layer of funk. After I removed the crusty old knot I polished the heck out of it and the Bluey green top shined up nice. I thought the bottom half was white, but it remains a buttery looking color. Is this a product of age and being UV unstable, or is this the color it is supposed to be? Was thinking of a pure badger knot for it, silvertip seems a little fancy for this handle. what dou y'all think?
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    "With great moustache comes great responsibility" ~ Peter Griffin

  2. #2
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    Default

    I have one exactly like that, and im getting ready to put a knot into it. Great Job on this one! I noticed there are a lot of differences on the 200T models, even though they are the same model number, mine has a less creamy bottom then yours.

    As for knot, it all depends on if you like soft or scrubby knots.
    -Mario.
    It's all good, even when it's not.

  3. #3
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    Depends on which soap/cream I use as to which knot I like. I like Black Badger or even Boar with hard soap like MWF, and soft Silvertip for glycerin soap and creams. I just think the Silver might be a little much for this handle in particular.
    I'm not too sure mine is supposed to be that creamy either.
    Also, about the handle being copletely hollow, should I fill it with epoxy, or would the heat of it curing damage the plastic?
    Last edited by bnalley; 05-24-2012 at 07:54 PM.
    "With great moustache comes great responsibility" ~ Peter Griffin

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by bnalley View Post
    Depends on which soap/cream I use as to which knot I like. I like Black Badger or even Boar with hard soap like MWF, and soft Silvertip for glycerin soap and creams. I just think the Silver might be a little much for this handle in particular.
    I'm not too sure mine is supposed to be that creamy either.
    Also, about the handle being copletely hollow, should I fill it with epoxy, or would the heat of it curing damage the plastic?
    I like a handle that feels solid, with a little weight to it, so I fill all of my handles. I use the Loc-Tite instant mix 5 minute cure epoxy, because it is in a syringe that mixes IN the syringe and it really handy for filling in handles. Just set the handle in a glass of water that does not go over the top of the handle and you should be ok. I have done more without the water bath, but recently got a few handles with thinner plastic, so I did that. I also fill in the handle with bb's for extra weight. I also fo all of my wet-sanding and polishing after I fill the handle. here is some deeper explanation of my processes:

    http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthr...68#post4148868
    Last edited by Blondie; 05-24-2012 at 08:32 PM.
    Phil
    _________________________________________

  5. #5
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    Blondie, Thanks for the link to your tips. I will fill mine with the loc-tite epoxy and bb's also, using your waterbath tip.
    setting the knot worries me though, Its my first time and I'm hoping to not screw it up!
    "With great moustache comes great responsibility" ~ Peter Griffin

  6. #6
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    Default

    As far as the knot, get a Two band Finest from the Golden Nib. Don't worry about putting a nice knot in it. It is probably one you are going to want to deep, so you may as well enjoy it.
    Phil
    _________________________________________

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by bnalley View Post
    Blondie, Thanks for the link to your tips. I will fill mine with the loc-tite epoxy and bb's also, using your waterbath tip.
    setting the knot worries me though, Its my first time and I'm hoping to not screw it up!
    Fill the handle to the approximate depth you want to set the knot at. It will self level. Then, after it has hardened for about an hour, scruff up the surface that has formed with some course sandpaper, or if you have access to a forstner bit that works really well. Then just put about a 1.5mm layer of epoxy down, and press the knot in. Hold it for about 5 minutes, and then leave it undisturbed for 24 hours. Piece of cake. I usually will go a little less on the epoxy than more and I never get glue coming out of the handle. This stuff has a holding strength of 3200PSI, and once cured is nearly as waterproof epoxy. Since brushes dry out between latherings, it does not need to be Marine grade epoxy. The main difference between the two is that Marine will apply and cure underwater, and can be permanently left submersed without fear of the bond eventually failing.
    Last edited by Blondie; 05-25-2012 at 07:42 AM.
    Phil
    _________________________________________

  8. #8
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    Thanks, Do you have any suggestions on how deep to set the knot?
    "With great moustache comes great responsibility" ~ Peter Griffin

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by bnalley View Post
    Thanks, Do you have any suggestions on how deep to set the knot?
    Generally speaking, the fatter the knot, the higher the loft it can handle. Finest tends to have soft tips, with stiff hair shafts. So you end up with a knot with considerable backbone. I like my 20 or 22MM knots set around 48-50. I just set a 24MM fan tgn finest, and overshot with my measurement, and ended up at 52, and it was still nice and firm, not too floppy. Once you get the knot from TGN, and you feel it, you will have a better idea. You can test set it without the adhesive and get a pretty good idea where you will end up after setting it.
    Phil
    _________________________________________

  10. #10
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    Very nice handle. That bottom looks nice I think. I wouldn't sand the discoloring off. I would recommend a Finest too @ 48-50mm.
    Matt

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by hig789 View Post
    Very nice handle. That bottom looks nice I think. I wouldn't sand the discoloring off. I would recommend a Finest too @ 48-50mm.
    I don't think I could sand it off if I wanted to. I put it on my slow speed grinder with cloth wheel and Blue plastic buffing compound (I use it for restoring straights mainly, it works wonders on crusty old blades and scales) and buffed the heck out of it. It shines like a new penny now, but it's still that buttery color. Even when you look down in the inside. I think it may be a deep discoloration. It's growing on me though, kinda makes it look more vintage.
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    Made it myself from scavenged parts a few years ago when I couldn't find one comercially that had low enough RPM's. I use it for buffing out blades and scales before I send them off to the honemeister. Worked well for cleaning up the plastic brush handle.
    "With great moustache comes great responsibility" ~ Peter Griffin

  12. #12
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    Now that it's super shiny lets see the pics!
    Jay No wtb here. Think i've bought EVERYTHING

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by bnalley View Post
    I don't think I could sand it off if I wanted to. I put it on my slow speed grinder with cloth wheel and Blue plastic buffing compound (I use it for restoring straights mainly, it works wonders on crusty old blades and scales) and buffed the heck out of it. It shines like a new penny now, but it's still that buttery color. Even when you look down in the inside. I think it may be a deep discoloration. It's growing on me though, kinda makes it look more vintage.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Made it myself from scavenged parts a few years ago when I couldn't find one comercially that had low enough RPM's. I use it for buffing out blades and scales before I send them off to the honemeister. Worked well for cleaning up the plastic brush handle.
    I think that may have been the original color if it is all the way through. Or it may be just the natural aging process of the plastic. Many handles have passed through my den of a vintage nature, and none of them are stark white. And yeah, PICS!
    Phil
    _________________________________________

  14. #14
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    Very nice buffer. That's the same setup I use. And yes blue works wonders on plastics.

    It's got a wheel on both sides now.
    Matt

  15. #15
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    The last pic in my origional post is after buffing. It's the only post-buff pic that the flash reflecting off of the shiny handle didn't ruin. I have a silvertip knot on the way, and I will put up pics of the epoxy/bb's filling of the handle, knot setting, and finished brush as those steps happen.
    thanks,
    Brett
    "With great moustache comes great responsibility" ~ Peter Griffin

  16. #16
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    Nice job! I have the same handle on my bench and I haven't had a chance to bore out the old knot or work on cleaning it up. I have cut off the old boar hair and that's it. That's sweet, can't wait to see your finished pics.
    - Gene

  17. #17
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    Default 200T update

    I gathered my odds and ends and the 20mm silvertip knot has arrived.Click image for larger version. 

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    I am using a .50 cal. round ball (its a lead bulllet for a .50 caliber blackpowder rifle for those that might not be familiar) for added weight inside the handle.
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    Here it is in a water bath with the tube of epoxy curing inside. The tube only filled it a little more than halfway, so it's back to the hardware store for me. Story of my life.....back to the hardware store!
    "With great moustache comes great responsibility" ~ Peter Griffin

  18. #18
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    Finishing the expoxy and adding the weight
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    "With great moustache comes great responsibility" ~ Peter Griffin

  19. #19
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    Putting in the new knot, and the finished product.Click image for larger version. 

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    I kind of likr the mottled butterscotchy look on the lower handle. Gives it that by-gone era look i think.
    1st retore complete!
    "With great moustache comes great responsibility" ~ Peter Griffin

  20. #20
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    Very nice! Have the exact same handle and just started polishing it last night! I used a few pennies for weight! Your thread inspired me!
    Jay No wtb here. Think i've bought EVERYTHING

 

 

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