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  1. #1

    Default Do you always raise slurry with the Thuringian?

    I just got a Thuri and would like to use it as a finishing stone. Is it used like coticules which you raise slurry when you want faster cut and water only for finishing? I plan to use it after coticule w/water. I've been reading and it appears that people say Thuringian is about 15000 grit (relative). I have a La Grise coticule that would finish equivalent to around 10000. So I want to use a Thuri after this.

  2. #2
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    try with water only. if you can't see any development try again with light slurry.
    anyway thuringians are about 10k except eschers.

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    i always start with a light slurry, and finish on water as it dissipates. if the desired result is not achieved i do it again until it is. that's just how i do it with my stones.

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    Lately I have been just finishing on a slurry. But if your stone is one of the softer ones you might not even have to raise a slurry to achieve the desired results. I also use mine after a coticule with water. A thuringian is a thruingian, weather it is labeled or not both achieve the same end result. Eschers are no more than a labeled thuringian just like a Deep Rock or a Old Rock is no more than a labeled coticule. Just try out different tactics, on touch ups i just do 30 laps on a slurry, but I once did 30 laps on slurry then rinsed and 20 laps on water. Just find out what works for you.
    Matt

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    When mine was still in use, I'd start with a slurry then finish on water only. The thinking being that the slurry doesn't break down as you use it as it does on a Japanese natural. For the finest edge, then, finish on water only. Whether or not the theory was true, the process worked well enough for me.
    Last edited by professorchaos; 05-25-2012 at 09:41 AM.
    Henry

    My Kit

    henry (@) badgerandblade.com

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    When I used one, I used it with slurry, letting it get sticky then rehydrating, repeating this process for a bit. It seemed to break down, but the process was slow. However, I would get very nice results. Now, I just use a coticule.

    If you do generate slurry, I recommend using a proper slurry stone and not a diamond plate. The diamond plate will rough up the smooth surface, which may affect the result.

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    Quote Originally Posted by danjared View Post
    When I used one, I used it with slurry, letting it get sticky then rehydrating, repeating this process for a bit. It seemed to break down, but the process was slow. However, I would get very nice results. Now, I just use a coticule.

    If you do generate slurry, I recommend using a proper slurry stone and not a diamond plate. The diamond plate will rough up the smooth surface, which may affect the result.

    ~~~Hello Dan!, Following your advice, one could gather up the slury with a DMT from the underside of the thurri, w/o disturbing the thurri's primary honing surface, but I have to ask, when you lapped your thurri, didn't you use a DMT to lap it? If not, what did you use?


    Best,


    Jake
    Reddick Fla.

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    @ the OP- I have limited use with a thurri....probably a little better than a dozen razors with the stone (thurri) I have. It seems to me I get more cutting action when I use a slurry and less when using water only

    In regards to using it after a coticule...there have been times I turned to the thurri when I didn't get the desired results I was after using a coticule. I was honing a razor the other night using my La Verte and didn't care for where the edge was going so I switched to Les Lat and found Nirvana, now the last time I honed I used the thurri and I went to the thurri because I tried using TI paste on a razor (1/2 hollow), this one

    and I didn't care for the edge I got using TI paste...at the risk of going on about this exp., I honed the above razor for the first time using Les Lat (finishing with), loved the edge then next go around with this razor, I stropped it 20 laps on TI paste and shaved with it....didn't care for it at all though I'm not done experimenting with TI paste FWIW...next go around (using TI paste) will be with a different razor (different grind too) and maybe I'll follow with some work on Cr0x. Sorry, but I digress=:-) Anywho, I immediately took this blade to my thurinigian (this was last night), now I was going to shave this morning (using this razor) but I think I'm going to turn in now...it's late and I'm tired


    Best,


    Jake
    Reddick Fla.

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    Quote Originally Posted by shakin_jake View Post
    ~~~Hello Dan!, Following your advice, one could gather up the slury with a DMT from the underside of the thurri, w/o disturbing the thurri's primary honing surface, but I have to ask, when you lapped your thurri, didn't you use a DMT to lap it? If not, what did you use?


    Best,


    Jake
    Reddick Fla.
    I did use a DMT to lap it but smoothed the surface afterwards.

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    Quote Originally Posted by danjared View Post
    I did use a DMT to lap it but smoothed the surface afterwards.


    ~~~~Thanks Dan, can you explain a little more detail? What you are saying indicates you may have used something besides the DMT to smooth it. If so, what did you use? Thanking you in advance


    Best,


    Jake
    Reddick Fla.

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    Quote Originally Posted by shakin_jake View Post
    ~~~~Thanks Dan, can you explain a little more detail? What you are saying indicates you may have used something besides the DMT to smooth it. If so, what did you use? Thanking you in advance


    Best,


    Jake
    Reddick Fla.
    Just use the slurry stone. It should do the job with not much time. The idea is that, if you use a diamond plate for raising slurry, there is nothing afterwards to smooth the surface, so there is the potential for this to have some effect on the razor's edge, most especially if you forego using the hone with anything but water.

  12. #12

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    If i lap my coticules with dmt 325 a worn one at that, i'll smooth my surface with a belgium blue slurry stone or yellow one .. I don't like making slurry with dmt 325...

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    Quote Originally Posted by danjared View Post
    Just use the slurry stone. It should do the job with not much time. The idea is that, if you use a diamond plate for raising slurry, there is nothing afterwards to smooth the surface, so there is the potential for this to have some effect on the razor's edge, most especially if you forego using the hone with anything but water.


    ~~~okay, roger that...you were using the thurri slurry (stone) to polish after the DMT...i wondered how you got it to look like that=:-)

    Note to anyone reading this...I bought danjared's thurri w/slurry stone last Jan

    I have to admit...the last few times I've used the thurri, I created slurry on top using my well worn 350 Duo-Sharp DMT...just a few rubs...enough to get the amount of slurry I need, nothing more. Prior to that I was rubbing the underside of the thurri with the DMT then wiping the slurry off the DMT with my finger onto the top of the thurri, but somewhere along the line I got lazy and just took the DMT to the thurri's top side

    That said, I have not noticed the edges I'm getting deteriorating since I'm honing on top of this thurri that is no longer polished. I did a touch up hone (job) on that 5/8 Worcester sqaure point, to rid that razor of the TI paste edge and shaved with it Monday (yesterday) late afternoon and I have to say it was a wonderful edge w/me easily getting BBS everywhere, although I work for it...4 pass, w/touch ups

    Since I mentioned it...most every shave I do 4 passes and touch ups. I want BBS when I'm done shaving and more often than not lately I've been shaving every other day or no sooner than every 36 hours. I'm finding my shvi9ng ability has improved enough that shaving every 24 hours just isn't necessary...but if I want to shave every 24 hours I will...but it just isn't needed yet like a lot of others here, I shave for fun, the enjoyment and most of all...because I can, not because I have to

    no one asked but here's my 4 pass shave...first pass north to south, 2nd pass same as the first. 3rd & 4th are south to north but I'll change up a little on one of them making it XTG on the cheeks. south to north for the neck for the most part is a lot of ATG. My hardest (to perform) ATG is the jawline and jowels which is shaved from the ears to the center of the chin (this pass is done on touch up). I have the damndest time with my motor skills to get the blade to move that way, but I get er done and this last shave using that 5/8 Worcester honed on the thurri...it was some really smooth shaving. Brush and soap was Semogue 830 (boar)/Proraso...face lathered of course. Sorry but I digress...we were (I was) talking about thurris and mucking up the honing surface creating slurry on top w/a DMT...but the funny thing is, (I know I'm repeating myself)...I've noticed no degradation in hone results creating slurry on top of this hone.

    this last edge was/is as good as any I've ever honed on any hone...starting with light slurry and finishing w/straight water, and ATG at the moustache (each side) is as smooth as can be. no weepers, no drama but I keep the spine nearly flat which allows me to shave irritation free./ glycerin or tallow, I'll get good results w/either soap

    FWIW i'm starting to like the 830 Semogue boar brush...building a lather with the proraso green tub soap, this brush is able to make the lather a little thcker (on the face of course) which seems to allow the soap to not dry out as fast as a thinner lather, what w/the air conditioner runnin this time of year. i also re-load the brush before every pass dunking the tub in the water and then hit the brush on top of the wet drained soap...but as you all know, variety is the spice of life and I'll use some other type of soap next shave (probably)


    Best,


    Jake
    Reddick Fla.

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    Quote Originally Posted by gary haywood View Post
    If i lap my coticules with dmt 325 a worn one at that, i'll smooth my surface with a belgium blue slurry stone or yellow one .. I don't like making slurry with dmt 325...


    ~~~it was Emmanuel who told me to try using one coticule to lap another and I like the results, even if I'm going to use the coticule w/no slurry at all, it will (rubbing one against another) make the garnets rise, allowing for more abrasives but all too often I find the DMT in the same sink with the coticules or on top of my stove where i do most of my honing and I fear not using the DMT to raise slurry or just to lap (smooth off) the coticule lightly

    I read where some never touch their coticule to a DMT but I prefer the way the top of the coticule feels after lapping/smoothing (lightly) with DMT...the surface of the coticule just feels smoother to me and I like that feel. Especially when honing with La Verte. Out of all of my coticules, La Verte (mine is standard) gets the bumpiest quickest. that's the best way I can describe the feel of the honing surface...bumpy, lumpy=:-) I know it's one of my harder coticule surfaces and again for me, it responds better to fresh laping with the DMT every so often

    know this too though...I'm not lapping each stone each use

    I know using the DMT on top will wear the stone quicker....maybe if I was in my 20's that would be a concern...but at 55 and the number of stones in my rotation, and how little wear I'm seeing, it just isn't a concern, for me...others may have better and different ideas


    Best,


    Jake
    Reddick Fla.

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    No.
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    When I'm using a new razor of mine on my Escher for the first time, I do 30 x-strokes on slurry, then finish with 20 x-strokes on just water. Then when I eventually touch-up that razor, I just do 20 x-strokes on just water.
    Matt

 

 

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