Dave
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It's easy if you have the tools. I made myself a nice little knockout block many years ago from a piece of hardwood about 1 1/2 inches thick by drilling various diameter holes in it to fit the different sized sections and nib collars I deal with. I have a special one I use for Pelikan with two different size holes, one for knocking out and slightly smaller for the reassembly. Anyway, a few holes carefully drilled so the section (or collar) is held and carefully tapping the suspended nib and feed out toward the tip (front) end with wood dowels usually gets the job done. A bit of heat occasionally on some of the more fragile/glued sections helps. I don't use metal like some folks do, I find some bamboo chopsticks and skewers can be just perfect!Is that relatively easy? There's a nice variety of nibs over there for cheap.
Reassembly: Align the feed and nib carefully, hold tight, and push home.
Mine looks pretty much like this (thanks Vintage Pens) but like I said, I use wood punches and don't use metal except for certain feeds with short breather tubes or wicks for which I use brass tubing.
Nice knockout Doug, but you don't even need this to get the nib out of a Vac 700. Just pull and it comes right out.
EDIT: make sure not to touch the tines when you pull the nib out. One finger on top of the nib, one finger under bottom of feed. That's it!
Dave
Dave258(at)BadgerandBlade.com
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For the 530/540 you need a knockout I think.
Dave
Dave258(at)BadgerandBlade.com
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I don't have a firm handle on the 700 at this stage, but you don't absolutely need a knockout for the #5 (530/540) nibs. I say this because I saw Pendleton Brown pulling them in and out numerous times at the Raleigh pen show. Mind you, he's a genius nibmeister so your mileage may vary.
They are in a screw-in assembly, though the TWSBI doesn't really use the assembly's screw in feature. It's the same assembly that Franklin Cristof uses for some pens and Levenger uses for all its in-house pens to my knowledge. That's why you can take certain Franklin Cristof stubs (which are ground by Mike Matsuyama) or Levenger TrueWriter nibs and use them in your TWSBI (or whatever permutation you prefer).
Jimmy - are you in the fountain pen business? Your knowledge is incredible!
Just call me Chris.
No, I'm just an enthusiast with knowledge that pales in comparison to many in the hobby. Have a talk at a pen show with a Richard Binder or Ron Zorn and come away amazed.
Man, you have a special pre-printed form just for testing pens on. I call that a couple steps beyond just enthusiast!
Just call me Chris.
That's actually something they worked up long ago on FPN. That's the more recent version of the form. There are actually people over there that have custom versions of that form they use, though. They're serious about their ink.
The K35 came in the mail yesterday and I popped it in the Vac 700. It fit perfectly and worked like a charm. The Knox nib is slightly more springy than the standard TWSBI Vac 700 nib and writes just as smoothly. I also didn't have to do any flow adjustments whereas I had to do a significant amount of tweaking on the Vac's standard nib (they seem to ship them adjusted to the dry side) but that could have been me getting the nib set 'just right' on the first go.
-Drew
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