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  1. #1
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    Default Question about pipe maintenance

    One of my pipes was starting to taste really funky, so I decided it was time to do a deep clean on a few of them. I read through the info in the Gentleman's Essentials sticky (thanks James!) and followed the instructions for cleaning with pipe cleaners and everclear. Next I set them for the salt and alcohol treatment. It's pretty neat to watch the snow white salt slowly turn a dark mahogany color.



    My question is about polishing the bowls and stems. I read the instructions about how to restore an oxidated stem, but I don't need anything that strong.

    What should I use to polish the briar and the stems? I don't have anything around the house, so info on where I can purchase the items would be very helpful as well.
    -Connor Lawrence
    I've spent half the money I've earned in my life on wetshaving, tobacco, booze and music. The other half I've just wasted.

  2. #2
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    I would clean out the salt out of your cob ASAP I know more than one person has cracked the bowl of their cob doing a S/A treatment.
    -Derrick
    In my world, everyone's a pony and they all eat rainbows and poop butterflies!
    Interested in Paleo/Primal way of life? Join us in the Paleo Lifestyle social group

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Commander Quan View Post
    I would clean out the salt out of your cob ASAP I know more than one person has cracked the bowl of their cob doing a S/A treatment.
    I guessed that the cob couldn't hold up to the S&A, but with how cheap they are I figured I'd take my chances. Thanks for the heads up, I've cleaned it out.
    -Connor Lawrence
    I've spent half the money I've earned in my life on wetshaving, tobacco, booze and music. The other half I've just wasted.

  4. #4
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    Olive oil does a great job on stems
    I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work. - Thomas A. Edison

  5. #5

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    Most online retailers sell a paste wax that will bring back the shine to bowl and stem. I like Walkers for both their stem cleaner and wax, but most products will serve.
    James

    Bearing the burden of responsibility..... It's probably my fault.

    Treat your silver as if it were earthenware and your earthenware as if it were silver - Seneca, Letters of a Stoic

  6. #6
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    Sep 2011
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    I have the Walker stem kit and it works well for mild cleaning and shining up. For the bowls, I have a small tin of Brebbia bowl polish that does a really nice job. I use a microfibre cloth and have on dedicated to each substance.

  7. #7
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    Apr 2012
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    The Great White North
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    I clean the stems with a paper towel and toothpaste. A good rub will get rid of any oxidation in a vulcanite one. Once rinsed off, I buff with olive oil. Does wonders.
    You are what you is, and that's all it is.

  8. #8

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    for the briar i use a beezwax almond oil mixture, i melt them together till its like butter
    Brother of the Way ----Choose You this Day, Whom Ye Shall Serve----------

  9. #9

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    I make my own wax as well. For a bright top wax bees wax, carnauba, and turpentine. For a soft finish or penetrating base wax bees wax, boiled walnut oil and alcohol.
    James

    Bearing the burden of responsibility..... It's probably my fault.

    Treat your silver as if it were earthenware and your earthenware as if it were silver - Seneca, Letters of a Stoic

  10. #10
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    Nov 2010
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    KY
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    Quote Originally Posted by jwhite View Post
    I make my own wax as well. For a bright top wax bees wax, carnauba, and turpentine. For a soft finish or penetrating base wax bees wax, boiled walnut oil and alcohol.
    James...what are the ratios, if it's not classified info ;-)
    "Swedish Snus....it does a body good!"--me

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by jwhite View Post
    I make my own wax as well. For a bright top wax bees wax, carnauba, and turpentine. For a soft finish or penetrating base wax bees wax, boiled walnut oil and alcohol.
    Interesting!

    Subbed
    - Rich
    Proud Member: Knights of the Veg Table
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    Participant 2012 and 2013 Brown Leaf Mark Tinskey LE Pipe
    Participant 2012 Rudy Vey Shavemac D01 Keyhole

  12. #12

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    For the basic bright wax its in 10s. 10 parts bees wax to one part carnauba. Melt in container set in water, ball jars work well. One part melted wax to ten parts turpentine, some of the carnauba will want to solidify from the drop in temp. stir with a clean stick while still in hot water bath until it is clear. Cover and remove from water to cool. I tweak that a bit but that makes a great natural wax for wood, brass and iron work and leather.

    The penetrating wax is one part bees wax, 10 parts oil, one part alcohol. melt wax add oil remove from heat and heat source add alcohol. Food safe and more resistant to wear also used as a board butter for cutting boards

    Both waxes can be thickened or thinned by playing around with the ratios.
    James

    Bearing the burden of responsibility..... It's probably my fault.

    Treat your silver as if it were earthenware and your earthenware as if it were silver - Seneca, Letters of a Stoic

  13. #13
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    Thanks for all the info gentlemen. I'll pick up some briar wax next time I'm at my local store. I followed Uncle Jackie's advice and did the toothpaste and olive oil on the stems, that seemed to work well. One of the reasons I enjoy this hobby so much is that it actually takes time and effort to maintain your tools. It feels nice to have all my pipes in pristine condition!

    -Connor Lawrence
    I've spent half the money I've earned in my life on wetshaving, tobacco, booze and music. The other half I've just wasted.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by conroygc View Post

    Whoa there! You can't post a pic like that and not add a description! What's that pipe in the top left? It looks amazing.
    Leigh ~ straights, single edges, double edges, boars, badgers, pipes ~ BOTOC

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Badger & Bengall View Post
    Whoa there! You can't post a pic like that and not add a description! What's that pipe in the top left? It looks amazing.
    It's a Preben Holm freehand pipe from the 70's or 80's I picked up at an antique store. I started a little thread about it here. Unfortunately one of the walls is very thin, so I don't smoke it often enough.
    -Connor Lawrence
    I've spent half the money I've earned in my life on wetshaving, tobacco, booze and music. The other half I've just wasted.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by conroygc View Post
    ...Unfortunately one of the walls is very thin, so I don't smoke it often enough.
    I have heard guys on here talk about using "pipe clay" for filling the bottoms of cobs & such. I wonder if you could build up some of that clay on the thin side to cool it down? I suppose once it was caked up you wouldn't see the clay anymore.
    Nick - Find me on Facebook facebook.com/nDoty & Google+ http://gplus.to/nrDoty

  17. #17
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    I was wondering if there was something out there like that. I'll have to see if I can find something like that. Maybe the local pipe repair guy has some info on it.
    -Connor Lawrence
    I've spent half the money I've earned in my life on wetshaving, tobacco, booze and music. The other half I've just wasted.

  18. #18

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    Pipe clay or pipe mud is just a thick mix of ash and water.
    James

    Bearing the burden of responsibility..... It's probably my fault.

    Treat your silver as if it were earthenware and your earthenware as if it were silver - Seneca, Letters of a Stoic

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by jwhite View Post
    Pipe clay or pipe mud is just a thick mix of ash and water.
    And it works surprisingly well.
    You are what you is, and that's all it is.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by jwhite View Post
    Pipe clay or pipe mud is just a thick mix of ash and water.
    Ah ha! Thanks for the tip. Should I just save the regular ash from my bowls for a while and mix it up?
    -Connor Lawrence
    I've spent half the money I've earned in my life on wetshaving, tobacco, booze and music. The other half I've just wasted.

 

 

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