Questions about oiling the straight

[erudolph]

I've been oiling my straight and am wondering if I'm doing it correctly. The oil is from Vintage Blades, and the bottle has a nifty little sponge applicator top. I run the applicator across both sides of the blade, along the tang on both sides and then wipe off excess with a paper towel.

Here's the questions: 1) it seems like there's an excess of oil. Should I just use the applicator on a portion of the blade and then use the paper towel to spread the oil? and 2) What about oiling the pivot point? This type of dispenser won't get in there. Should I put a drop of machine oil in there or something?

Thanks for any help with this newbie conundrum...

[ladykate]

I've been oiling my straight and am wondering if I'm doing it correctly. The oil is from Vintage Blades, and the bottle has a nifty little sponge applicator top. I run the applicator across both sides of the blade, along the tang on both sides and then wipe off excess with a paper towel.

Here's the questions: 1) it seems like there's an excess of oil. Should I just use the applicator on a portion of the blade and then use the paper towel to spread the oil? and 2) What about oiling the pivot point? This type of dispenser won't get in there. Should I put a drop of machine oil in there or something?

Thanks for any help with this newbie conundrum...

As long as the oil doesn't interfere with the finish, it isn't a bad thing to have too much - although it is kinda messy. I use turbine oil (an odorless oil) and put a drop on each side of the blade and wipe it with my fingers making sure the edge gets coated - many recommend a cloth or tissue but I've had closer calls with a rag than with my fingers. I then wipe the rear with my oiled fingers and put a drop into the pivot pin.

Your queston about whether to oil the pivot pin is less controversial (to me). Yes .. definitely yes, oil it. I'm not an 'old' head but I've rebuilt a few and honed a few more. I own 40 blades or so. Almost every older razor I've seen come by my bench has had corrosion in the pivot area. Seems no one ever thought of a drop of oil there in the past. The pivot pin area holds moisture and gunk so flush it and oil it.

Since this is more of a hobby than a job for me - I have collected quite a few razors. I try to keep them in my rotation and when I am done, I wipe them down, finish the edge and oil them. I let them stay out overnight and then put them in their container and store them. They don't rust.

[erudolph]

Much obliged for your thorough answer! The trick with this Vintage Blades oil dispenser is that it won't dispense a drop (in all other ways I really like it). So, I'd need to use a different oil for the pivot point.

[fccexpert]

You only need a thin film, apply accordingly. I don't oil my blades anymore, but when I did, I just used food grade white oil (mineral oil). I put a small amount on a paper towel or tissue (what ever was at hand) and rubbed it on the blade. This leaves a thin film with no excess.

[erudolph]

One more dumb question: oiling the pivot point? Inside, i.e., oil between the scales? Or oil directly onto the pin (in this case a screw)?

[Brownbear]

I oil my blades by putting a drop on one side, rubbing my middle finger along that side then pinching the blade between my middle and forefingers and swiping both sides outward. Uses one drop and doesn't leave the blade dripping.

I don't oil the pivot. For one I don't want the pivot to be floppy, makes it a pain to hone and strop. For another, if water is in the pivot putting oil on it won't help. The water in the pivot is held in by capillary action. Oil and water won't mix, and the oil will not automatically displace the water, it is likely to seal it in. Better to not let water get into the pivot in the first place.

[erudolph]

Thanks Brown Bear... that seems like an excellent way to oil. And one more newbie question: if you strop after shaving, do you oil after or before stropping? I've been oiling after.

[brother cavefish]

just take care of the blade i always wipe off my fingerprints, and blow air in the pivot section to remove as much water as possible-once in a while i use synthetic bicycle oil in the pivot, real oil can cause buildup and evaporization of the viscosity level leaving a more gummy residual

[erudolph]

Thanks Bro Cavefish.... you got me thinking about TriFlow and that tiny red applicator straw that comes with the squeeze bottle.

[bones59]

You only need a thin film, apply accordingly. I don't oil my blades anymore, but when I did, I just used food grade white oil (mineral oil). I put a small amount on a paper towel or tissue (what ever was at hand) and rubbed it on the blade. This leaves a thin film with no excess.

+1 I dont use oil ether. I rinse with hot water and wipe with a shave towel, take a quick look between the scales to check for drops. If any are present, I blow them out. No rust here but it's not very humid were I live. Also, dont use any oil that you wouldn't put on your face.

[erudolph]

Thanks for the reply. You live maybe in the central valley or SoCal, Bones?

[bones59]

Thanks for the reply. You live maybe in the central valley or SoCal, Bones?

SF Bay area

[rajagra]

The pivot pin area holds moisture and gunk so flush it and oil it.

On the other hand, oil collects dirt and turns into excellent grinding paste (which is why you should clean drive chains on motorbikes before oiling them.)

[erudolph]

SF Bay area

me too. 50 percent humidity pretty much unless it's raining. good for wooden musical instruments too

[Brownbear]

I oil my blades by putting a drop on one side, rubbing my middle finger along that side then pinching the blade between my middle and forefingers and swiping both sides outward. Uses one drop and doesn't leave the blade dripping.

I don't oil the pivot. For one I don't want the pivot to be floppy, makes it a pain to hone and strop. For another, if water is in the pivot putting oil on it won't help. The water in the pivot is held in by capillary action. Oil and water won't mix, and the oil will not automatically displace the water, it is likely to seal it in. Better to not let water get into the pivot in the first place.

Whoops, posting while tired is not a good idea. Clearly I can't pinch the blade between my forefinger and middle finger. What I meant to say is I put a drop of oil on one side, smear it out with my middle finger, then place my oily middle finger beneath the blade and pinch it between ,my thumb and middle finger to spread the oil on both sides.

I live in a rainforest so oiling is not an option, it is a requirement. But most bathrooms are high humidity environments. And rust can happen at a microscopic level not visible to the naked eye. I learned my paranoia from a machinist who built racing engines. When he finished machining a crankshaft or cylinders he immediately put a coat of oil on the surface to eliminate the chance of microscopic corrosion that, although not visible, would lead to premature parts failure. He was a quirky guy so maybe he over did it, but then he was the best Ducati mechanic in the southeast and his bikes won races.

[erudolph]

Thanks for the clarification Brown Bear. I was trying to disassemble a haircutting scissors that my wife keeps in the medicine cabinet. It looked fine but the screw holding it together was obviously rusted solidly in there. Bathroom is high humiditiy indeed!

[brother cavefish]

Thanks Bro Cavefish.... you got me thinking about TriFlow and that tiny red applicator straw that comes with the squeeze bottle.

i use the synth oil on my speed bag swivel too, it leaves a great barrier I think its purple extreme, or something like that no petroleum--- also i hear synth transmission oil is good

[ladykate]

re: Pivot point - to oil or not

(soapbox)

I hear what some of the folks are saying about the pivot point. My background just makes me want to respond - having fought corrosive environments for most of my first career.

A couple of things - oil gunk won't wear out a pivot point on a razor since it really doesn't have that much stress or frequency of motion on it. Indeed, if it gets gunky, then wash it out, blow it free of water, oil it. Gunky is always less desirable than clean but it is easy to fix it. Rusty is not as easy to fix.

Oiling a properly pinned razor won't make it floppy although it will certainly make it easier to pivot. If a pivot becomes remarkably easier after it is oiled, I would look for a corrosion problem. Of the razors I rebuild, all will remain at 45 degrees on their own - that doesn't make them stiff but they are lubricated and they aren't loose at all.

There are water displacement oils - if the oil 'sealing in the water' is a worry, then use one of them. However, I've never had that problem. If you do use a water displacement oil, use one of the ones developed for lubricating sporting guns. Which reminds me... the gun folks would never recommend that you DON'T oil a metal piece. They would say to oil it sparingly, though.

You should use an oil that doesn't dry to a varnish. The most obvious one that does that (and the bane of gun hobbyists) is WD-40.

Next time you go to a junk store and look at the razors or buy that eBay razor object that is well used, take a look at the pivot point. It will almost always be corroded. I've only found one or two that weren't. The way to prevent it is to keep it lubed and dry.

I recognize that there are multiple opinions on this so I guess it will be an individual thing. However, the next time you buy that new razor, read the directions. Of the new ones I've been lucky enough to snag, they mention that you should lube the pivot point.

(/soapbox)

Thanks for listening! I respect everyone's opinion on this so the above isn't meant to be a challenge or anything - just my observations and experience. I promise I will let go of the sock after this post. ;-}

[brother cavefish]

personally i think most rust ,if any, is mostly on old razors, and or that someone neglected-------, i am always inspecting my razors, i would think it took years to do most of the pivot holes i have seen, they are a little bigger , so i drill /clean them out and sleeve them

[erudolph]

much obliged to ladykate for weighing in. ladykate, what was the previous career you mention?