Help - Do Fatboys have a more resistive tto than other gillette TTO's?

**evilbuck** · 04-23-2012, 08:48 AM

I received a fatboy in the mail from ebay. However, I noticed it is harder to open (not impossible, just not smooth) than my other vintage Gillette TTO's. Is this normal?

**pipskicks** · 04-23-2012, 08:55 AM

Originally Posted by evilbuck

I received a fatboy in the mail from ebay. However, I noticed it is harder to open (not impossible, just not smooth) than my other vintage Gillette TTO's. Is this normal?

Usually means it's dirty or not working perfectly (I *think*). But have you cleaned it out at all? Maybe it's gunked up a bit?

I've never had this problem but I've heard of ones that were a bit "sticky" plus ones that needed some pushing because the mechanism was no longer working properly. That's not "normal" it's wear and tear and a lesser-grade razor I believe.

But just in case I would soak it and see if it helps....

Oh and I don't think Fatboy TTO's are any different or should feel any different from what I've read...

**TimN** · 04-23-2012, 09:14 AM

When closing up,my Fatboy is a tiny bit resistive in the last turn or so. The silo dorrs have then already closed, it's just the twist with which you tighten the knob.

My SuperSpeed Flare Tip however has the same feeling during the whole closing and opening process.

**ironfist** · 04-23-2012, 09:18 AM

Originally Posted by TimN

When closing up,my Fatboy is a tiny bit resistive in the last turn or so. The silo dorrs have then already closed, it's just the twist with which you tighten the knob.

My SuperSpeed Flare Tip however has the same feeling during the whole closing and opening process.

My fatboy does that too, hmmm

**eblau** · 04-23-2012, 10:28 AM

Originally Posted by evilbuck

I received a fatboy in the mail from ebay. However, I noticed it is harder to open (not impossible, just not smooth) than my other vintage Gillette TTO's. Is this normal?

Yes, this is normal. My '59 Fatboy is the same. The last 1/4 turn of the TTO knob seems to lock the adjustment mechanism into place.

Are you comparing the Fatboy against other non-adjustable TTOs or adjustable TTOs?

**evilbuck** · 04-23-2012, 10:30 AM

Non-adjustable. However, mine is resistive during the entire closing process. Full open to full close.

Originally Posted by eblau

Yes, this is normal. My '59 Fatboy is the same. The last 1/4 turn of the TTO knob seems to lock the adjustment mechanism into place.

Are you comparing the Fatboy against other non-adjustable TTOs or adjustable TTOs?

**evilbuck** · 04-23-2012, 10:36 AM

Originally Posted by evilbuck

I received a fatboy in the mail from ebay. However, I noticed it is harder to open (not impossible, just not smooth) than my other vintage Gillette TTO's. Is this normal?

Forgive my ignorance, but what should I soak it in?

**BBrad** · 04-23-2012, 10:39 AM

Gillette adjustables (Fat Boy, Slim, Super Adjustable) all lock the doors down against a compression spring. The spring makes up for the difference needed in center rod length due to adjustment. That too should be smooth, and you should feel the spring compressing during the last 1/4 turn.

Not opening smoothly from start to finish is usually due to crud accumulated in the TTO knob threads, compression spring area, or around the knob retaining crimp. Soaking the razor in almost boiling water with dish soap added, or in mineral oil, will generally solve this problem without the need to disassemble the razor. Time and patience are also required.

Also, damage to the door pivot area on the head can also cause binding when operating the TTO - but that should be easily seen and fixed by gently tweaking the head back into square.

**pipskicks** · 04-23-2012, 11:48 AM

I'm not sure actually due to ruining the plating job, I've always had user-grade stuff and just used what I had and with a toothbrush and elbow grease it seemed easy enough.

I think boiling in hot water is a safe way to get some crud out? Although there are other ways?
Don't do that until someone else chimes in, I honestly have cleaned up some crud, but never really caring if I ruined the plating or anything a little, everything was just cleaned to shave with.

**retturn2blades** · 04-23-2012, 11:55 AM

You can soak it in rubbing alcohol...maybe put in some baking soda. Also, gun owners with nickel-plated firearms use Breakfree CLP (Clean, Lubricate, Protect). It's non toxic and can loosens some nasty stuff from firearms. You could soak your razor with that. Just clean it off well after using Breakfree.

**BBrad** · 04-23-2012, 12:23 PM

DO NOT BOIL THE RAZOR!! I said use almost boiling water with dish soap. Let the razor soak, and change the water after it cools. Let it soak overnight . . . when you walk by it, pick it up and operate it. Put it back in the water. Soak. The crud will eventually dissolve, and no damage will be done to the plating or the painted numbers.

Alcohol, on the other hand, is good for a dip but lousy for a soak. It is corrosive to metal. Be careful also of alcohol-containing solvents in industrial products like WD-40. A quick spray and rinse may help, but don't soak the razor in anything harsher than dish soap and water.

**Snargle** · 04-23-2012, 12:24 PM

Soak the razor in hot (not boiling) water with a squirt of liquid dish soap. When the water cools down, discard and repeat as many times as necessary to loosen up the crud that's binding up the inner workings. Take a pipe cleaner/Q-tip/bamboo skewer and ream out anything you can reach to break loose any petrified gunk. Finish up with a good shot of scrubbing bubbles and an old toothbrush to shine it up. Once the mechanism is moving freely, a drop or two of mineral oil will help lubricate, protect, and smooth things out.

**Snargle** · 04-23-2012, 12:27 PM

Great minds thinking alike, Brad!

**BBrad** · 04-23-2012, 01:11 PM

Originally Posted by Snargle

Great minds thinking alike, Brad!

Scary, isn't it??

**kingfisher** · 04-23-2012, 01:34 PM

Listen to Brad and Snargle. Soak it in hot soapy water. Soak it for a long time. After a few hours, pour out the soapy water and get some new soapy water and soak it some more. Soak it overnight if you have to.

**Go West Young Man** · 04-23-2012, 05:35 PM

Think how many years it took for that crud to harden to cement inside the razor..... it's going to take some time to break it up!

**evilbuck** · 04-23-2012, 05:44 PM

A quick soak in ALMOST boiling water with a drop of dish soap did the trick. Completely different, feels much better. Thanks guys!

**CGW409** · 04-23-2012, 06:35 PM

Originally Posted by pipskicks

I'm not sure actually due to ruining the plating job, I've always had user-grade stuff and just used what I had and with a toothbrush and elbow grease it seemed easy enough.

I think boiling in hot water is a safe way to get some crud out? Although there are other ways?
Don't do that until someone else chimes in, I honestly have cleaned up some crud, but never really caring if I ruined the plating or anything a little, everything was just cleaned to shave with.

Do not, I repeat, do not boil the razor you can damage it by boiling, instead soak it in near boiling water off any heat source.
I just picked up 1958 Fatboy for under 12.00 that had not only stiff clamshells but a stiff adjuster and it took several hot water soakings to loosen all the grunge and scum accumulated over the years and I still needed a drop or two of light machine oil down the handle well as well as the adjuster knob to get it freed up.