Straight, not Square! Beatnik's Journal (oh yes!)

[cameraflier]

The ATG pass is the one that really makes the difference ....I would really love to get to the point of eliminating it some day as it is not a very comfortable pass.

For me.... the ATG was a PITA until I accomplished two things. 1.) taking skin stretching really seriously 2.) building my honing skills. The ATG is simply unforgiving of errors in either department. Once I got those figured out, I've found I can use a shallower angle, and I really enjoy an ATG pass with a fresh edge. I know that sounds weird, but I like shaving ATG, if the edge is ready it.

It sounds like you're progressing quite well. Nice work.

[Beatnik]

For me.... the ATG was a PITA until I accomplished two things. 1.) taking skin stretching really seriously 2.) building my honing skills. The ATG is simply unforgiving of errors in either department. Once I got those figured out, I've found I can use a shallower angle, and I really enjoy an ATG pass with a fresh edge. I know that sounds weird, but I like shaving ATG, if the edge is ready it.

It sounds like you're progressing quite well. Nice work.

Great observations ...Thanks for sharing. I like the phrase that you used, "taking skin stretching seriously". I'll have to ask this question to myself while I'm shaving. As it is, I can't even make a ATG pass without having a stretch going on, my skin will bunch up. Right now when I make the ATG pass, I generally use my thumb, below the blade, and as the blade move up, the thumb follows. I had my best ATG pass using a razor that had the sharpest edge that I've had to date, so what you say in this regard also makes sense. I still find the ATG to be a PITA, but I will take your advise and perhaps I too with grow to like it.

[global_dev]

try this one.

http://www.rasurpur.de/media/rasurpu...rpurshave.html

i like that one the best also, wish it had subtitles

Right now when I make the ATG pass, I generally use my thumb, below the blade, and as the blade move up, the thumb follows..

absolutely great way to skin stretch

[Beatnik]

Shave #14

3 Pass shave: WTG (N>S), XTG (ear>nose), & ATG (S>N). The Shave was completely done with a straight, no DE clean up.

Razor: CV Haljestrand 5/8, 3/4 hollow, on its 3rd shave after honing.
Strop: 30/60 on felt/ leather for per-shave, 20 on leather, post.

I have been very busy of late and did not have time to shave with a straight until this morning, the first time in two days ...how I missed it!
It being Sunday, I lathered up some QCS Basilica (frankincense & myrrh) cream to a yogurt-like consistency in the DB 1.5 scuttle ...a great soap/cream, just love it. Again, I was trying to take steps to maximize blade "glide" by having good prep, lather and razor edge. I think I'm just starting to be able to feel the correct blade angle as I shave: too steep is a bit boggy, too shallow the blade feels like its not "shaving"-getting down through the stubble, just right and the razor feels like its shaving. However, this could all be my imagination ;), but I don't think so. I'll have to pay more attention to this. Anyhow, the razor felt comfortable and both the WTG & XTG passes went well. I wanted to get cleaner, so I went for a full ATG pass and it was a bit more difficult. The reasons were various, starting with the razor feeling awkward in my left hand, and the shaving cream drying out a bit. I think that the edge had lost some of its keenness during the shave as well. All in all, a good shave. I would put it at a weak DFS on account of patches of stubble on the neck and jawline that remained, but really, it didn't matter too much as I enjoyed the results through out the day. I think what is benefiting me the most in my shaving progress is just simply having that additional experience that each shave with a straight brings. All for now...

[Beatnik]

Shave #15 & #16

3 pass shaves, WTG(N>S), XTG(ear>nose), ATG(S>N). Whole face and neck, No DE clean-up.

Razor: #15 -CVH 5/8's, 20 laps on the CrOx Balsa strop, 30/60 felt/leather for per-shave, 20 leather after.
#16 -J.R. Torrey 11/16's full-hollow. 20 laps CrOx, 30/60 felt/ leather pre, 20 leather, post

Starting to get some real good shaves now, solid DFS territory. The reasons are various: better blade angle, stretch, and just building time with straight razor shaving. I was also able to shave a hollow spot on my neck right below the jaw-line and left side-burn by "bullfroging" -pushing (puffing) the skin out by dropping and bringing the chin back into my neck. The whiskers in this hollow grow from nose to ear and lay flat against the skin and this method is the only way I can get at them. I have been able to do this with a DE for some time, but with a straight, its awkward as I can't see the area at all when I'm "bullfrogging", -I literally have to feel my way around here. I've been working at it for a while and now can shave this area with a straight just as well as I did with a DE, -yes!
I'm starting to shave in a pattern or routine with a straight. Before, I would just do what was comfortable. Now, Its cheeks, neck, mustache, and chin to finish. The only exception is with a ATG pass, where I start with the razor in my dominate hand (right) and shave the left side of my neck, working all the way up to the edge of my beard on the top of my face. The ATG pass continues to be the most difficult, especially when I'm holding the razor in my left hand as I still have a ways to go with being comfortable with shaving when I have the razor in this hand.
Still a lot of things to work on or work out though. Pressure is one of them, I still use too much and can get some burn as a result. I have also started honing using a coti. I also have some lapping film. I plan to refresh a razor on lapping film starting with the 1 or 3 micron and progressing to paste. With the coti, I'm just working on trying to get a even x-stroke. I have another razor that I hope to sharpen using a unicot method ...here we go!

[Beatnik]

Shaves # 17 & #18

Razors: Gilbert Rafin 13/16's on #17, CV Heljestrand 5/8's on #18.

I stropped both razors the same: 30/60 felt/leather pre-shave, 20 on leather post. Both edges on these blades need to go to the hones for some touch up. They have been limping along w/ 20 or so laps on CrOx paste balsa w/aggressive stropping. Speaking of stropping, I read the Stropservation thread in the strops forum here and as a result increased the pressure on my stropping an bit and also eliminated slapping the razor during the turns. This is working well for me, as it has helped my edges last longer and stay sharper. It has also increased my enjoyment of stropping in itself, I am beginning to enjoy the sound and feel of stropping my razors.

My shaves are going ok, I really can't complain overall. I still have some difficulty on the ATG pass with the razor bogging down or getting stuck. A really sharp blade would really help here (and has) and as I previously mentioned, its still a little awkward using the razor in my left hand on this pass, which I do to shave the right side of my face. The results on my neck have improved quite a bit mainly due to figuring out some good stretches that brings the skin off of the hollows, and just re-orienting the whisker grain so its a bit easier to shave, ...little things that add up to a lot. I am now trying to be more efficient by trying not to go over the same area over again as this is something that I do almost unconsciously. I find that by the end of the shave, those areas that I tend to go over multiple times within one pass get shaved just fine. Right now, my focus is on honing as my razors are in need. I am using lapping film primarily, but experiment on the coti as well. All for now...

[Beatnik]

Shave 19 - 21

I have been real busy of late with work and coaching track. I have not had a Saturday to call my own for 4+weeks due to track meets. The last meet is this weekend, however ...but I digress.

I'm just going to make some general comments about the last 3 shaves.

First off, I have started honing. I'm using lapping film and have found it to be straight forward and easy to use. I have freshened up some of the edges on my razors and have been able to restore some of the keenness lost since they were first honed professionally. I've been finishing these edges with about 60 laps on the 1 micron and then 40 more on the 1 micron w/paper underneath. I then give them 20 laps on a CrOx balsa strop followed by stropping 30 on linen, 60 on leather. I'm fairly satisfied with these edges but know that they could be better with better technique, but this too will come from more practice. I do find honing satisfying, however, and look forward to doing more and learning and experimenting.
The shaves have been sort of a mixed bag in terms of results. They have all been 3 pass shaves WTG, XTG, and ATG. I need to work on consistency with my technique, as I have either been getting irritation from too much pressure on some shaves or just simply not removing much stubble on others. I still find the ATG pass to be a PITA, but it something that I have to do to really get a close shave. Of the things that need work on in terms of technique, I have decided to focus on pressure. OK, that and consistent stretching. I did that with this mornings shave and it was a very comfortable one that was in the DFS category.
As I have now passed the 20 shave mark, I have noticed some interesting things. I have much better control of the blade, even when I use my left hand. I don't have to consciously think about how to maneuver the blade when changing from one area to another as much. Last, I have better fine motor control with the blade especially around tight, sensitive areas like around the mouth, chin, and mustache area. I find that to be pretty exciting. All for now...

[Beatnik]

I thought that I would make a quick update to my journal, as it has been some time since I last made a post to it.

First off, I am still using a straight razor to shave, at least most of the time. I'm afraid that I've lost count of what shave I'm on but it has to be somewhere between 40 to 50 shaves with a straight. I am thinking as I write this that I would have really liked to have kept count of the number of shaves that I have had with a straight. For whatever reason, knowing when I have crossed the 100 shave mark is important to me.

What's new:

Edge consistency.

I have been honing my own razors for about a month now and am able to produce a good edge that does well in the HHT test. I can also do a a quick touch up on my razors as well. This, plus good stropping, has allowed me to shave with a fairly consistently sharp edge. This really makes a difference on the quality of my shaves and shaving with better technique.

Skin Stretching.

I thought that I was stretching well from the get go but realized that I really wasn't. It took trying to trouble shoot shaving some problem areas on my neck that made me experiment and find some new stretching techniques, that not only involved using my fingers but the tilting of my head and jaw as well. The results were much better and closer shaves with less irritation. Skin stretching can't be underestimated. When I encounter new straight shaving videos, I really pay attention to how the person is stretching in order to get new ideas.

Pressure.

For what ever reason, this is one of the most challenging areas for me. I still tend to use too much pressure. I believe that blade angle and pressure are related and thus watch my blade angle during my shave.

Last. -I still prefer shaving with a straight to any other form of shaving. I like the ritual and the result. Due to time constraints, I can't shave with a straight every day, but that's just the way it is and that's ok. I still wet-shave with a DE on my non straight days, and to be honest, i enjoy that too. Anyhow, I'm still on the learning curve, trying to iron out my shaving technique and honing skills. I'll try to make an occasional entry in to the journal as time and inclination dictates. All for now.

[Kentos]

Great progress!

I will give my 2 cents on pressure:

The sharper the blade the less pressure you need for a good shave. Conversely the less sharp the blade the more pressure you can use and still have a comfortable shave.
It is my prejudice that assuming a blade is well honed, the sharper it gets the less forgiving it is on your skin if you, ie. use too much pressure, use too much angle, go over the same area too much, have a crappy lather, blah, blah, blah . So the challenge, IMO, is to find the balance between smooth and sharp that matches the pressure you use for your shave.

What alerts you to too much pressure?

[Beatnik]

Great progress!

I will give my 2 cents on pressure:

The sharper the blade the less pressure you need for a good shave. Conversely the less sharp the blade the more pressure you can use and still have a comfortable shave.
It is my prejudice that assuming a blade is well honed, the sharper it gets the less forgiving it is on your skin if you, ie. use too much pressure, use too much angle, go over the same area too much, have a crappy lather, blah, blah, blah . So the challenge, IMO, is to find the balance between smooth and sharp that matches the pressure you use for your shave.

What alerts you to too much pressure?

What you say about finding a happy medium btw sharpness, pressure and comfort makes sense and matches my experience. What alerts me to using too much pressure is irritation after the shave ...removing more than just whiskers. I also catch myself bearing down on the razor while i'm shaving, particularly while on some challenging area on my neck and chin.

[global_dev]

No alert so much... perhaps when rotating between razors you feel a difference in pass characteristic.