Knife Maintenance (Specifically Oiling)

Hello,

I just bought a knife online, and while it's not my first knife, it is the first one on which the blade isn't stainless steel.

The seller's description suggests that the blade be cleaned and oiled after every use, can someone explain the procedure to me (is there any oil left on the blade, or is it just wiped on then off, etc) and also, what type of oil should I use?

Any other maintenance tips are appreciated as well.

kirill said:

Hello,

I just bought a knife online, and while it's not my first knife, it is the first one on which the blade isn't stainless steel.

The seller's description suggests that the blade be cleaned and oiled after every use, can someone explain the procedure to me (is there any oil left on the blade, or is it just wiped on then off, etc) and also, what type of oil should I use?

Any other maintenance tips are appreciated as well.

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It's been years since I had a carbon steel blade knife. Advantage is that they are generally easier to sharpen.

As far as oiling after every use, who has the time or carries around oil to do so. Just wipe it off or wash under running water, depending on what you are doing, it ain't going to break. The blade will develop some patina over time, just accept it as it will not hurt anything.

Just use it and don't worry, you will quickly learn what you need to know depending on your useage and habits.

It's up to you really, some people like to force a patina by soaking in vinegar or coating with mustard, some people just use the knife and rinse it off and wipe it dry after each use and let a patina build up over time, some people prefer the shiny new look so they use an oil like Remoil or CLP, if you'll ever use the knife for food prep mineral oil is recommended since it's FDA approved for human consumption.

Alright, thanks for your answers, it's a pretty nice knife, with a damascus steel blade (or so the seller calls it, I seem to remember hearing that the original technique was lost), with a bone and horn handle. Hopefully it's as nice in person as it seems from the pictures, it's from ebay, so you never know.

I'll post pictures if it works out.

The description of the blade is this "THIS BLADE IS HAND FORGED WITH 1095 AND 15N20 HIGH AND LOW CARBON STEEL WITH OVER 200 LAYERS.THIS BLADE IS UPTO 58 HRC ON ROCKWELL SCALE WHICH HOLDS HOLDS THE SHARPNESS FOR LONG TIME AND CAN BE USED FOR TOUGH WORK."

Sorry about the all caps. I'll be sure to keep it in good repair though. In all honesty while it will get occasional use, it was bought primarily for the look of it.

I don't have a damascus and really don't know why it would rust faster then white steel. I have a white steel gyoto (amongst others) and a bottle of Camellia oil which I have never used. Just wash it with hot water and dry it right after each use and you will be fine. The worst you will get is staining and patina. There's isn't enough humidity and salt in the air to cause concern. Just make sure you use it often and inspect it.

Is this a kitchen knife or a pocketknife? I have a 10" Shun chefs knife that I have never put oil on I just make sure after every use it gets washed immediately and dried properly.

58HRC isn't particularly hard. Camellia oil works great, and won't turn rancid.

ouch said:

58HRC isn't particularly hard. Camellia oil works great, and won't turn rancid.

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+1 on 58HRC not being very hard especially for carbon steel. This sounds like the blade is made of pattern welded steel, pretty but not necessarily the hardest material. Regular oiling will help preserve the pattern. I personally prefer carbon steel blades as they are generally harder than stainless and hold their edge better. I don't oil them after every use, but I do sharpen them on an oil stone so there is generally a residual oil film. Over time, these blades will develop a gray patina. This is actually oxidation, but unlike rust, it forms a protective layer on the steel surface and prevents further corrosion.

All carbon steel blades will discolor with use (patina) unless lightly polished with Barkeeper's Friend after each use. Staining will start during use. However, the patina will reduce reactivity with food and help prevent discoloration of food and possible metalic taste. Carbon blades differ in their reactivity, some being faster to stain and more likely to leave a metalic taste than others. Rinse and wipe dry immediately after each use to prevent rusting. Do not leave it with food residues on a counter top for any length of time, wipe it clean and dry. Cleaning and wiping dry may be sufficient for a knife in daily use, but consider keeping a rag damp with mineral oil for wiping the knife after each use session. Mineral oil is safe for food and food processing equipment. For extended storage, use a good gun oil or grease, but be sure to clean it off before the next use with food as it is not safe to eat. Minor staining can be cleaned off using Barkeeper's Friend, but you will have to reestablish the patina. It is important to prevent rust from starting and to remove any corrosion or rust that starts quickly before pitting occurs, but you do not have to remove patina. In practice, this maintenance is all quick and easy to do requiring only a little attension to detail.. I keep an empty plastic pill container with a small rag dampened with mineral oil next to my razors and knives.

HTH

I've many carbon steel pocket knives and simply use mineral oil to protect them. In a pinch, I've used a bit of avocado oil, or even olive in small quantity until I could do a proper cleaning and oiling. This oiling does not take place after each use by a long shot on my steel, but there are plenty of differences in steel so YMMV. I also enjoy building up a patina on the blades, which also acts as a protective layer against rust. Favorite method: cutting up/eating apples.

It's been said already, but please use oil that's fit for food use use if you ever plan to use the knife for provisions.

My Kantana only has 12 folds, and it cost over a grand. I think you need to take advertising with a grain of salt.

Petro-chemical oils should be avoided.

I use only mineral oil, with cloves in it. Its called Choji Oil. You can find it all over the net.

I quit buying it decades ago, when my master showed us how to make it.

Choji Oil is a great choice (and yeah, easy to make). If you don't have the time and don't feel like ordering camellia, jojoba works great and can be found in most health food stores.