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Gillette slim jammed or broken?

I'd go with scrubbing bubbles first, and see how that does. I did use WD40 once, but there was visible rust (from a blade left in the razor). If it looks rust free, I'd probably avoid the wd40 unless you can't get it to work otherwise. Less is always best with this kind of thing.

I will keep at it. I think it is going to take awhile. Scrubbing bubbles or WD40 or both? I appreciate the help and will keep you posted. Since its my grandfathers my ultimate goal is replating.
 
I'd go with scrubbing bubbles first, and see how that does. I did use WD40 once, but there was visible rust (from a blade left in the razor). If it looks rust free, I'd probably avoid the wd40 unless you can't get it to work otherwise. Less is always best with this kind of thing.

I'm not saying I disagree, BUT I don't know what the long-term effects of scrubbing bubbles might be on the plating... I *do* however, know that with the PB Blaster I used on my dad's tech, several WEEKS of continuous contact did NOT harm the finish at all... I think the penetrating power of WD40 is far less than the PB Blaster product, so I'd guess it would also be perfectly safe for the existing finish.

Has anyone "submerged" a razor for an extended period of time in scrubbing bubbles, if so, what were the effects on the finish?
 
I have to admit I had an impulse man purchase on the bay and ended up with this. 1. It is awesome for only 20 bucks. 2. I now know for sure my grandfathers slim is locked up. I can easily see the adjuster plate move on the fatboy. The slims plate seems like it is almost glued down. I guess I have some work to do.

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Looks pretty good for a 20 buck Fatboy!

Having a similar razor to your heirloom slim will help you dial it in when you free up the adjustor because you'll have something to compare it to.
 
Finally after days of wd40 and scrubbing bubbles we are in business. The adjuster plate is moving but not smoothly yet. Thanks again for all the help.
 
Finally after days of wd40 and scrubbing bubbles we are in business. The adjuster plate is moving but not smoothly yet. Thanks again for all the help.

Very cool. I had no success with WD-40 so I tried PB-Blaster likehttp://badgerandblade.com/vb/member.php/31847-bkfist bkfist suggested. Only took me one evening to get it to working. Still not quite as freely-moving as my other adjustables but loose enough to adjust properly.

Thank you!
 
Very cool. I had no success with WD-40 so I tried PB-Blaster like bkfist suggested. Only took me one evening to get it to working. Still not quite as freely-moving as my other adjustables but loose enough to adjust properly.

Thank you!

Glad it worked for you. Typically I stay far away from a product when it says "as seen on TV", but the guy at the auto parts store highly recommended it, and it was actually cheaper than a couple of other penetrating oils he had in stock. About he only other product I can remember that was "as seen on TV" that actually worked like advertised was the old Flowbee hair cutter. :) Lasted me around 12-15 years until a friend borrowed it to cut the hair on her 3 boys... She cut it wet, and the blades had rusted by the time she brought it back to me a week later. I'm sure there were others, but nothing I can think of at the moment. Definitely more junk than decent stuff with that label on it.
 
First thing, make sure you're adjusting the dial with the TTO doors open. Assuming you're doing that and it still won't go past 5, it's possible that the adjustment dial has been "overclocked" so to speak. The little red spring that makes the adjuster click can be pressed in, and the dial moved independently. It's possible that that was done at some time and the adjustment range has shifted such that you can't go past 5. In other words, what is "5" on that razor, is actually what should be "9". The easiest way to tell if this is the case is to look at the little adjustment bars that come up through the base plate. When the dial is turned up, they should protrude through the baseplate pretty far. When at the lowest setting, they should be about flat with the base plate (not protruding at all). If when you have it on the lowest setting the adjustment bars are protruding from the baseplate, it's probably over clocked. Let me know if that's the case, as we can go from there to fix it (not hard).

That said, it still may well just be soap down in the adjuster itself. Definitely try some scrubbing bubbles, and squirt some down into the handle from the top with the TTO doors open. Let it sit, then try again.
Hi James
I have the exact same problem with
My Slim those little bars protrude
Through the baseplate and they never
Move up or down no matter which way
I turn the adjuster. With the the doors
Open the adjuster turns easily although
The clicking sound is really faint and
Can barely be heard when turning the
Adjuster. I'm hoping to fix this problem
Myself. With a little help via Advise .
Thanks in advance
To all.
 
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