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Thread: Gillette slim jammed or broken?

  1. #1

    Default Gillette slim jammed or broken?

    I was lucky enough to find my grandfathers 1960's slim stuck in a drawer. I was able to shine it up well based on things from this site. My problem is the adjuster dial won't turn past 5. I have taken everyone's advice and soaked in dish soap. It has been a fairly long time and no change. The water stays clear. It is perfect smooth twist up until 5. My question is could it be broken or is there some other trick I could try? Currently I have been using dawn dish washing liquid.

  2. #2
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    Spray some scrubbing bubbles all over the dial. Scrubbing bubbles works wonders
    -Joe- Proud Member of The BOTOC
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    First thing, make sure you're adjusting the dial with the TTO doors open. Assuming you're doing that and it still won't go past 5, it's possible that the adjustment dial has been "overclocked" so to speak. The little red spring that makes the adjuster click can be pressed in, and the dial moved independently. It's possible that that was done at some time and the adjustment range has shifted such that you can't go past 5. In other words, what is "5" on that razor, is actually what should be "9". The easiest way to tell if this is the case is to look at the little adjustment bars that come up through the base plate. When the dial is turned up, they should protrude through the baseplate pretty far. When at the lowest setting, they should be about flat with the base plate (not protruding at all). If when you have it on the lowest setting the adjustment bars are protruding from the baseplate, it's probably over clocked. Let me know if that's the case, as we can go from there to fix it (not hard).

    That said, it still may well just be soap down in the adjuster itself. Definitely try some scrubbing bubbles, and squirt some down into the handle from the top with the TTO doors open. Let it sit, then try again.
    Last edited by jamesspo; 04-14-2012 at 09:24 PM.
    James - 2011 R41 w/Weber Handle, Feather, Arko (face lather), TGN Super Silvertip brush, Gillette Sun-Up AS
    BOTOC - LOSER - SSB - ARKO - TOFLAC-U - GNU - B.E.A.S.T

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by jamesspo View Post
    First thing, make sure you're adjusting the dial with the TTO doors open. Assuming you're doing that and it still won't go past 5, it's possible that the adjustment dial has been "overclocked" so to speak. The little red spring that makes the adjuster click can be pressed in, and the dial moved independently. It's possible that that was done at some time and the adjustment range has shifted such that you can't go past 5. In other words, what is "5" on that razor, is actually what should be "9". The easiest way to tell if this is the case is to look at the little adjustment bars that come up through the base plate. When the dial is turned up, they should protrude through the baseplate pretty far. When at the lowest setting, they should be about flat with the base plate (not protruding at all). If when you have it on the lowest setting the adjustment bars are protruding from the baseplate, it's probably over clocked. Let me know if that's the case, as we can go from there to fix it (not hard).

    That said, it still may well just be soap down in the adjuster itself. Definitely try some scrubbing bubbles, and squirt some down into the handle from the top with the TTO doors open. Let it sit, then try again.

    Wow James I think you are on to something. I took a pin and pressed the little dot and the adjuster turned it a little. Now it goes all the way to 9. "Fist bump" My one thing is it looks like the dial unscrews a little now when I switch it to 1, also to the naked eye it doesn't look like anything moves on the inside. When you adjust is the gap between the dial and the base supposed to expand just a little. Either way your the man, I thought it was broken. Seeing as its older then I am.
    Last edited by jd1585; 04-15-2012 at 10:30 AM.

  5. #5
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    Were you able to get it working now? For future reference, photos always help troubleshoot problems.
    - James
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  6. #6

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    And increase our enjoyment of your posts!
    Saving money? No, I said that was my Shaving money.
    You can never have enough razors... until they overflow your shave den. Then it's time for a bigger den.

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    Quote Originally Posted by AABCDS View Post
    Were you able to get it working now? For future reference, photos always help troubleshoot problems.
    ames , Spotz was thinking the same, PICS PICS!!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails e5297d97-7de4-44c0-8d78-33a0aac90773 - Copy.gif  
    Steward in the B&B Shave Clinic & Newbie Check-In forum - Click here for Hall Of Fame

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  8. #8
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    My camera is about dead but I was able to grab one photo. Big thanks for helping me get this process going. Check the gap between the dial and the razor head. When I adjust from 9 - 1 the gap gets bigger. If that is the only problem though I am happy!

    Click image for larger version. 

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  9. #9
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    heres how Fat boy looks like dismantled also how paint numbers back on....plus slim thread http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthr...ly-Documentary

    Steward in the B&B Shave Clinic & Newbie Check-In forum - Click here for Hall Of Fame

    I can't hardly wait for tomorrow to come so I can shave again.

  10. #10
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    It sounds like in addition to the dial range being off, the adjuster is not moving up and down with respect to the base plate...this is pretty common. Dial it all the way down to 1, with TTO doors open. You should be able to push up on the adjuster plate from under the head, and see the adjustment bars move up and down when you look at the base plate from the top (where the blade goes). There are 4 slots in the base plate, and four little bars that should protrude up through those slots. If it doesn't move up and down like that, those bars are probably frozen up..usually stuck to the baseplate holes, either because of soap scum or a little corrosion. You might be able to just work the adjuster plate and down while holding the razor by the baseplate. It should eventually move up and down easily with just a light touch of your fingers under the adjuster plate. I had one Fatboy that had a bit of blade rust and/or corrosion between the adjuster bars and the baseplate holes and required some wd-40 to get it freed up. Once you get that junction freed up and moving, it should work properly. The gap between the adjuster plate/barrel and adjustment knob should close up when the TTO doors are closed, once things are working right.


    Quote Originally Posted by jd1585 View Post
    My camera is about dead but I was able to grab one photo. Big thanks for helping me get this process going. Check the gap between the dial and the razor head. When I adjust from 9 - 1 the gap gets bigger. If that is the only problem though I am happy!

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMAG0309.jpg 
Views:	224 
Size:	34.4 KB 
ID:	236313
    James - 2011 R41 w/Weber Handle, Feather, Arko (face lather), TGN Super Silvertip brush, Gillette Sun-Up AS
    BOTOC - LOSER - SSB - ARKO - TOFLAC-U - GNU - B.E.A.S.T

  11. #11
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    I think it is freed up. It is really hard to tell if there is significant movement of the adjuster when I turn the dial. Should you be able to look at it and see a difference other then the numbers on the dial? I guess the only way to know is to try it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jd1585 View Post
    I think it is freed up. It is really hard to tell if there is significant movement of the adjuster when I turn the dial. Should you be able to look at it and see a difference other then the numbers on the dial? I guess the only way to know is to try it.
    if u dial it up to 9 it should have a wider opening than if its at 1, it should progress from smaller gap to wider gap and you should be able see it
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    Quote Originally Posted by alex2363 View Post
    if u dial it up to 9 it should have a wider opening than if its at 1, it should progress from smaller gap to wider gap and you should be able see it
    +1

    I only have one adjustable, but the blade gap noticeably changes from one number to another, with a BIG difference from 1 to 9. One thing to note, if you happen to have a vintage Tech is that the adjustable should have a similar gap to the tech when set on 2 or 3 (closer on 3 than 2 IIRC).
    Chris

    SIR Searus Dysconyus - OG Member - Knights of the Maillard Table

  14. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by jd1585 View Post
    I think it is freed up. It is really hard to tell if there is significant movement of the adjuster when I turn the dial. Should you be able to look at it and see a difference other then the numbers on the dial? I guess the only way to know is to try it.
    JD, don't worry about the gap changing on the adjuster dial. Mine does that too and it's working fine.

    James is spot on here, but let me expand a little. The adjuster plate is the rectangular part underneath the rest of the head's baseplate, and part of that forms four bars that go up through slots in the bottom of the baseplate. You might not see them move much as you dial in different settings. Try this:

    With the doors open, turn it to "1". The four little bars should be close to flush with the baseplate. Now push up on the bottom of the adjuster plate, and they should move upward a good deal. Lots of play.

    Now dial it to "9". The bars should stand proud of the baseplate by a noticeable degree, but not a huge amount. Push up on the adjuster plate from below, and if it moves a good deal less than before, it's probably working fine.

    As noted, don't adjust with the doors tightened down - loosen them first. You might get away with not doing it that way, but you run a risk.

    Good luck and good shaves!

  15. #15
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    Now it is starting to make sense. As I look now I see that the adjuster plate bars in the four slots are stuck to the baseplate. They don't move at all. I actually thought they were supposed to be this way. I can't get them to give by hand. I am going to go for a little WD40 after work. I will keep you posted.

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    Something to keep in mind... My dad's tech was gummed up when I got it, and I couldn't twist the doors open. I sprayed PB Blaster in the handle, let it sit, repeated the small spray of PB Blaster... it took 2 WEEKS for the penetrant to work it's way completely in and loosed the mechanism so that the doors opened and closed completely normal.

    What I'm saying is, don't expect to spray WD40 on and have them loosen up in a few minutes... It could take hours, days, weeks.
    Brian - I think it would be totally inappropriate for me to even contemplate what I am thinking about.

  17. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by jd1585 View Post
    Now it is starting to make sense. As I look now I see that the adjuster plate bars in the four slots are stuck to the baseplate. They don't move at all. I actually thought they were supposed to be this way. I can't get them to give by hand. I am going to go for a little WD40 after work. I will keep you posted.
    James also recommended Scrubbing Bubbles in an earlier post...don't know if you tried that. That or a nice long soak in Green Clean or equivalent might precede WD-40. If it's scum, the cleaner will help more; if corrosion WD-40 (plus time).

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    Remember, it took 50 years for that concrete to harden, it's not going to give way easily!
    Just call me Chris.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jd1585 View Post
    Now it is starting to make sense. As I look now I see that the adjuster plate bars in the four slots are stuck to the baseplate. They don't move at all. I actually thought they were supposed to be this way. I can't get them to give by hand. I am going to go for a little WD40 after work. I will keep you posted.
    Excellent.... That's going to be the core issue. Sorry for not steering that way initially. After those are freed up, you might have to go back and tweak the dial again to get it in the "right place", but that's easy to do. Let us know how it goes. I concur with what everyone said, it can take a while. I had one that was really concreted up pretty badly between the bars and the baseplate. I just kept at it with the scrubbing bubbles, and pushing up on the adjustment plate until it started to move. At first it would just barely move, but I kept working it, and after a good number of cycles later it was moving up and down with ease.
    James - 2011 R41 w/Weber Handle, Feather, Arko (face lather), TGN Super Silvertip brush, Gillette Sun-Up AS
    BOTOC - LOSER - SSB - ARKO - TOFLAC-U - GNU - B.E.A.S.T

  20. #20
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    I will keep at it. I think it is going to take awhile. Scrubbing bubbles or WD40 or both? I appreciate the help and will keep you posted. Since its my grandfathers my ultimate goal is replating.
    Last edited by jd1585; 04-17-2012 at 02:13 PM.

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