Section 7 - 4, Belgian Yellow Coticule (New & Vintage)

[joel]

Belgian Yellow Coticule (New and Vintage)
Belgian Coticules are world renowned and revered for creating incredibly sharp, incredibly fine, and superbly smooth edges on steel. Yellow Coticules use a slurry stone (some times referred to as a “bout”) to create a milky slurry to which to hone with. Due to the tremendous demand of Yellow Belgian Coticules, they are typically quite expensive, and are usually mounted to a dark bluish/black piece of slate to add stability. (Note: although very uncommon, there are some 4Kblue/8Kyellow Belgian Coticule combination stones) The abrasive/cutting agent in these hones is garnet – which is embedded into the stone, with a good quality (new) Yellow Coticule having about 30-40% garnet content. Since garnet is much harder than steel, it will quickly, and easily cut through steel, however the real key with these hones, and why they are the most common (and possibly desired) finishing hone is due to the Garnets having a unique shape, and the result is that they impart a smoother feeling edge when shaving, which many straight razors users prefer. After honing on a 4/8K Norton, I use the Belgian Coticule with about 10-15 passes as a finishing stone on most razors, and on particularly hard razors, or Damascus razors, 15-30 passes. Sometimes I’ll do the last few passes with no slurry, or use no slurry at all.



Vintage Belgian Yellow (sometimes white) Coticules are extremely expensive, and by many considered to be “the ultimate” razor hone. Since they are natural hones, and since the best cuts/stones have already been quarried, the “best of the best” in terms of Coticules are vintage Coticules. I personally have a vintage Coticule with about a 50-60% Garnet content, and it is noticeably finer, and provides a notably superior shaving edge.

Vintage Belgian Yellow Coticule...



Pro’s
1.) Belgian Yellow Coticules do not need to be soaked prior to use – merely wet the top of the hone, raise a slurry with the slurry stone (merely takes a few seconds) – and it’s ready!
2.) Leaves an exceptionally smooth edge, which is incredibly smooth/easy on your face when shaving.
3.) Harder than a water stone, which means it doesn’t have to be lapped too frequently, and the stone will not “load” with swarth or metal particles.
4.) Since both natural and limited in supply, these tend to hold their value quite well – and if anything will only go up in value. Check ebay… top quality, old stones can go for more than a custom Damascus razor.
5.) These hones are fun to use!



Con’s
1.) Yellow Coticules are not easily available from many sources, and are quite expensive.
2.) Since it is a natural product, quality, grit, etc can vary from stone to stone.
3.) While a hard stone – they still need to be lapped occasionally.
4.) Coticules tend to be smaller stones – good quality large stones the size of say a Norton 4/8K are uncommon and tremendously expensive.

Slate backing....


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[TstebinsB]

In regards to using a coticule with or without slurry, what's the affect on the razor? I would expect a slurry to help give the razor a finer edge but you mention using no slurry on your last few passes. Also, yellow coticules are used as finishing stones by many people. I've read that a yellow coticule is about 8,000 grit. Is that when dry? If so, do you know the approximate grit when with slurry? Thanks.

[joel]

In regards to using a coticule with or without slurry, what's the affect on the razor? I would expect a slurry to help give the razor a finer edge but you mention using no slurry on your last few passes. Also, yellow coticules are used as finishing stones by many people. I've read that a yellow coticule is about 8,000 grit. Is that when dry? If so, do you know the approximate grit when with slurry? Thanks.

The more slurry (to an extent) - the more aggressive the honing properties of the stone. The stone stays 8K grit, however with no slurry, or dry, the "less aggressive" cutting properties of the stone seem to impart a slightly finer/smoother edge. When there is a slurry, there is a ton of abrasive garnet in the slurry - which is what does the cutting on the hone. Taking the slurry off means the only abrasive garnet is that which is embedded in the stone, so it cuts slower and in my experience leaves a finer edge. With this said - after enough strokes (depends on the softness or hardness of the stone) a light slurry will be built up naturally from the razor's steel working the clay/stone.

Coticules can be used with slurry, without slurry, and wet or dry. Some fellas claim "dry" imparts the finest edge.... personally I find (for me) no slurry with a wet stone is the bees knees for me - at least when it comes to coticule land. It's pretty rare that I finish and shave off the coticule - unless I am honing razors for others, or I am testing hones.

Hope this helps!

[TstebinsB]

Coticules can be used with slurry, without slurry, and wet or dry. Some fellas claim "dry" imparts the finest edge.... personally I find (for me) no slurry with a wet stone is the bees knees for me - at least when it comes to coticule land. It's pretty rare that I finish and shave off the coticule - unless I am honing razors for others, or I am testing hones.

Hope this helps!

Thanks for the info but your post leads me to two more questions.

Can you give a short description of each: with slurry, without slurry, wet, and dry? So far, you've said wet gives the finest edge. Also, since you don't use a coticule to finish up, what do you use? Thanks. I really appreciate it.

[joel]

Thanks for the info but your post leads me to two more questions.

Can you give a short description of each: with slurry, without slurry, wet, and dry? So far, you've said wet gives the finest edge. Also, since you don't use a coticule to finish up, what do you use? Thanks. I really appreciate it.

With a slurry = wet the stone, and rub a slurry stone on it until a milky liquid is formed.

Without a slurry = Wet stone.

Wet = with or without slurry.

Dry = with or without slurry (residue).

I finish on Green Chrome oxide - usually right off of the DMT D8EE.

Hope this helps

[TstebinsB]

With a slurry = wet the stone, and rub a slurry stone on it until a milky liquid is formed.

Without a slurry = Wet stone.

Wet = with or without slurry.

Dry = with or without slurry (residue).

I finish on Green Chrome oxide - usually right off of the DMT D8EE.

Hope this helps

Sorry for not being clearer. What I meant was, what does each state do to an edge? You said a dry edge gives the finest edge. What does the coticule do to an edge when wet, with slurry, etc.

[joel]

Sorry for not being clearer. What I meant was, what does each state do to an edge? You said a dry edge gives the finest edge. What does the coticule do to an edge when wet, with slurry, etc.

See post #3. With slurry = less fine/smooth of an edge edge and visa versa. Keep in mind - we're talking very minute differences that some fellas (depending on the razor and their beard) wouldn't even notice. Also, it depends on the stone itself, as some coticules are super soft and cut about the same as with a slurry - when no slurry is used. There is no golden rule - but basically a coticule (with slurry, without slurry etc) is going to leave a decent shaving edge if used properly. They're not my personal "go-to" stone, and I rarely use them other than for tests, or honing razors for other people.

[TstebinsB]

Thanks for the help!

[PedroNavaja]

Is there an alternate way to raise a slurry in a yellow coticule other than with a slurry stone?
Perhaps some type of sand paper?

[Chady]

I don't think I would use sandpaper as all types I know of has particles coming off it when used, so you would end up with some really coarse grain in the slurry. You could use a DMT I think though.

[joel]

A diamond plate would work.... but a slurry stone is easier to use, cheap and more effective.

[linguist]

i have the same stone. one side blue other is yellow.
[img]i43.tinypic.com/19p7xc.jpg[img]