Touch and Cut

[AJS]

I've finally come up with a system that seems to work quite well for me, a hybrid of Guenrons 4 pass system and the method shaving cutting forms, and with more work on my blade angle I think that I should be closing in on the BBS end result we all crave. However, even with this system there are areas that I really struggle to shave smoothly (jawbone, below the ear lobe) and this brings me to the topic of this post, touch and cut. Is there any specific methodology for the final touch up? I am thinking in terms of direction of stroke, different blade angle etc. Also, I assume that it is not required that one lathers the whole face again, so is T+C done with just water and really light strokes or would a shave oil be desirable in this situation. Does anybody here have a specific system for their final touch up that they would like to post. Any help you can offer will be most appreciated as usual.
Warm regards,
AJS

[mrob]

Here's what I do:
•I usually apply a coat of lather for my last pass, which has thinned out a bit at this point.
•Then I wet my hand and face and run the hand over my skin to feel where there are any offending patches.
•I dial the Vision down to its least aggressive setting and run the razor over these spots in short, rapid, multiple strokes--it feels like the head and guard of the razor are just as involved with this process as the blade is, if that makes sense.
•A final rinse with warm water, then cold. . .
. . .followed by an application of Thayers WH and the AS o' the day!

[guenron]

I've finally come up with a system that seems to work quite well for me, a hybrid of Guenrons 4 pass system and the method shaving cutting forms, and with more work on my blade angle I think that I should be closing in on the BBS end result we all crave. However, even with this system there are areas that I really struggle to shave smoothly (jawbone, below the ear lobe) and this brings me to the topic of this post, touch and cut. Is there any specific methodology for the final touch up? I am thinking in terms of direction of stroke, different blade angle etc. Also, I assume that it is not required that one lathers the whole face again, so is T+C done with just water and really light strokes or would a shave oil be desirable in this situation. Does anybody here have a specific system for their final touch up that they would like to post. Any help you can offer will be most appreciated as usual.
Warm regards,
AJS

Please lather those portions to be T&C'ed else you will really irritate the skin. I am sure we will have someone pop up that says they don't lather, but use their mom's pancake batter... Just a light coat of lather, apply with your fingers if you must, but the lather is the going to protect your skin..

[Jonnybc]

That'll be me then...

I don't know about my mother's pancakes but I just wet my face with water from my hands while I feel for any stray hairs or patches with my fingers.

[guenron]

That'll be me then...

I don't know about my mother's pancakes but I just wet my face with water from my hands while I feel for any stray hairs or patches with my fingers.

Are you saying you cut on the skin that only has the benefit of the water from your fingertips? I've heard of the characteristic stiff upper lip, but tough hide? Manly! Manly!

[Jonnybc]

Are you saying you cut on the skin that only has the benefit of the water from your fingertips? I've heard of the characteristic stiff upper lip, but tough hide? Manly! Manly!

Haha I'm not that tough!

I usually do three passes with lather I then finish the shave with water only, this method gives me enough lubrication and lets me see what's happening. I don't think I could soften my whiskers any more than they already are from the previous latherings.

[HeadandFaceShaver]

I find that the lather consistency decreases (becomes more water based) as I continue to dip the brush in the hot water (I have a water cooler that has a hot water spicket (the perfect heat for shaving). So I always apply lather for touch ups but it is of a more watery consistency. The jawbone, used to be one of my harder areas but as long as I go from chin to ear first and then ear to chin (stretching out my skin along the way) I have gotten great jawline shaves. However, still haven't mastered under the ears! Good luck!

[superfly]

Are you saying you cut on the skin that only has the benefit of the water from your fingertips? I've heard of the characteristic stiff upper lip, but tough hide? Manly! Manly!

Hi guys,

The standard barber's second pass is made with water, and not lather. However, the second hot towel is used. It works fine with straight razor, but I prefer lather on my second pass anyways...

Nenad

[SteveL]

I use cutting balm, sometimes mixed with the hydrolast paste for my T&C. Another way is to mix Jojoba oil with hair conditioner for the T&C.

The oil, helps provide a thick slow moving layer as to not irritate the skin and the paste makes it glide a bit smoother. I find this to work better than shaving cream to both help prevent irritation and so you can see where you're cutting to get those last stubborn whiskers.

[NMMB]

I use cutting balm, sometimes mixed with the hydrolast paste for my T&C. Another way is to mix Jojoba oil with hair conditioner for the T&C.

The oil, helps provide a thick slow moving layer as to not irritate the skin and the paste makes it glide a bit smoother. I find this to work better than shaving cream to both help prevent irritation and so you can see where you're cutting to get those last stubborn whiskers.

I picked up some Jojoba oil last week (as I mentioned in another post) and was wondering what to do with it (other than using it on my hands at night - Jojoba oil is GREAT for moisturizing your hands, in case you are curious)... as a result I've decided to try it as a T&C-lube this week (though, without the hair conditioner that you suggest). So far I've found that it works pretty well (ie, better than just water, which I found painful, and with the benefit that I can see what I'm doing for the T&C, which I can't when I lather prior to the T&C).