The beauty of lapping film is that it doesn't require much to get it to work. Keep the razor flat. There... end of checklist. (OK... need a flat base, need to know which edge is the sharp one, etc).
I had a handful of razors to hone this weekend and, at first glance, they looked fairly clean but they were quite dull. However, upon setting the bevels (5 needed to be set with the DMT), one was warped, two had frowns, and three had stabilizers that were in the way or extending past the shaving edge (from improper honing at some time).
The setup work took most of the time - getting out the frowns, taking down the stabilizers so they weren't in the way, honing out the slight warp, setting the initial bevel, etc.
Four of them were strop ready after one pass of 60 laps on 12, 9, 5, 3, 1 and .3. I know some don't like .3 but I do so everyone who shaves with my razors gets it. ;-} The fifth one (the warped one) required quite a bit of work and I ended up taking it through the progression twice with some time spent on 12 to get even wear marks on the spine. Another one took rehoning three times to get the bevel the way it should be (it had a wave in it). That one ended up being noticeably narrower after it was cleaned up.
So... if your razor is twitchy to start with, you will still have to work at it. If it is close to ready then a normal progression through the sheets will bring it to life. Treat the film with gentleness - no need to press hard but insure the blade is flat (same way with stones). Typically, I run the blade across the film with one finger lightly pressing on the center of the spine.
Inventor of the world's first safety vibrating Kamisori with night light. Go to http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php/299465-A-milder-Kamisori: Inventor of the Weckisori - (thanks sychodelix)