What's new

Lapping film, try it.

You might also try Specialized products where I got mine. Granted the sheets are 9 X 6.5 which I cut into roughly 3 X 9 strips. At basically .25 cents a strip ( .50 a sheet) I didn't think it was out of line. A pack of 25 goes for $11.25.
The carry a decent selection of 15,12,9,5,3,2,1 and .3 micron. All sold in 25 packs for the same $11.25.


I am waiting on a delivery of the same films. Bought 5,3 and 1um and plan to cut them in half. That right there should last quite some time as I also still am using my regular hones.
 
Just got my film from RickBoone1 today and need to get a slab of granite. I figure I can split the sheets in three pieces 6 1/2" x 3" each. Should I get a piece exactly that size, or is it better to go a little bigger?
 
Wouldn't it be sweet if all posted links on where to buy could be put on the first page of the thread? Or is it just me being lazy...
 

Slash McCoy

I freehand dog rockets
Just got my film from RickBoone1 today and need to get a slab of granite. I figure I can split the sheets in three pieces 6 1/2" x 3" each. Should I get a piece exactly that size, or is it better to go a little bigger?

Why so small? Hone wit da big dawgz. Go 9" x 3-1/4". Why settle for small? Bigger is easier.
 
Just got my film from RickBoone1 today and need to get a slab of granite. I figure I can split the sheets in three pieces 6 1/2" x 3" each. Should I get a piece exactly that size, or is it better to go a little bigger?

i use one ~14''x~8"...... it makes a great lap bench for all things razor related....

so... to answer your question.... get a bigger one...
 

Kentos

B&B's Dr. Doolittle.
Staff member
Paper is the key to the process. Any surface, no matter how well lapped, will benefit from having the film "float" over the surface to which it is attached. This effectively completes the lapping process, allowing for the finest edge.

I am currently in posession of some high end, dedicated paper for this purpose from the celebrated producer Specially Treated Artisanally Prepared Lapping Enhancing Sheets. They are available for one dollar each in 8.5x11" size, and I am offering a 20% discount for the bulk pack of 500 sheets, now only $400 including CONUS shipping.

Can we start a group buy?
 
Bigger, finer, and more expensive is always better, you should know already :001_rolle

That sounds like Texas to me. I have not lived here 20 years yet, so I'm not officially biased.

I think a 3 1/2" x 9 1/2" would be OK. A little gap all the way around the sheet to make sure it's stuck properly.
 
I have granite from a leftover project that I am happy to send if anybody wants. Just pay for the one-rate box/shipping.
 
I'm about ready to jump on board with this lapping gig (didn't love the experience I've had so far with my little coti bout - the only hone I have so far)...

Couple questions:

For standard maintenance (i.e. NOT restoring 'bay blades), do I really need a DMT 1200 , DMT 600/1200, etc as a bevel setting plate? (would not some 12 or 15um film accomplish the same?)

And, about taping spines - do you all do this? Yes/no?

Thanks, Gents!
 
The problem I see with going too wide is you have a lot of wasted film there. Just go as wide as you need to, as wide as the blade is. Anything else is just wasted. It won't get touched by the razor. If you scoot it over to where you have the tang or the scales on there it's too good a chance your blade will no longer have contact.
 
I'm about ready to jump on board with this lapping gig (didn't love the experience I've had so far with my little coti bout - the only hone I have so far)...

Couple questions:

For standard maintenance (i.e. NOT restoring 'bay blades), do I really need a DMT 1200 , DMT 600/1200, etc as a bevel setting plate? (would not some 12 or 15um film accomplish the same?)

And, about taping spines - do you all do this? Yes/no?

Thanks, Gents!

15, 12 or even 9 µm is fine for setting bevels. 12 is kind of the 'norm'.
If you're using lapping films to just keep blades maintained, I'd get like some 5 and 1. That's all you'll need.

I don't tape spines. Electrical tape is for wires, not razors.
 
How much water do you guys use ON the film while your honing? I'm finding different results based on how wet/dry the film gets. Do you try to keep a fair amount of standing water on the film?
 
How much water do you guys use ON the film while your honing? I'm finding different results based on how wet/dry the film gets. Do you try to keep a fair amount of standing water on the film?

Funny you ask this...

I have about 10 in my lap honing on film right now. Literally, right NOW. Okay, that was fun....

But, I noticed some seem to have a better feel when they get a little drier. Others need a little pool of water. I don't think I'm getting worse/ better results based on the water ratio,it's more of feel.
 

Slash McCoy

I freehand dog rockets
How much water do you guys use ON the film while your honing? I'm finding different results based on how wet/dry the film gets. Do you try to keep a fair amount of standing water on the film?

I use what I can put on without it running off all over the place. When it starts getting dry I dribble some more. It's all good. I actually think that if you use a lot of laps, and you don't use much water, you might get sort of a slurry, which would cut faster but leave a less fine edge than clear water. Just thinking out loud. But the effect is minimal for most of us because typically we do one or two razors, about 40 laps per grade, in a session, which is not enough to make much of a slurry. I have done a dozen at one sitting and there was a detectable slurry, though in truth it was probably mostly swarf (grindings from the steel, not abrasive particles from the film) Bottom line: do it like you feel it, because it probably doesn't make all that much difference. Just keep it wet for best results, and if you are out in the desert with no water, no worries. Dry film will still hone.
 
Funny you ask this...

I have about 10 in my lap honing on film right now. Literally, right NOW. Okay, that was fun....

But, I noticed some seem to have a better feel when they get a little drier. Others need a little pool of water. I don't think I'm getting worse/ better results based on the water ratio,it's more of feel.

I use what I can put on without it running off all over the place. When it starts getting dry I dribble some more. It's all good. I actually think that if you use a lot of laps, and you don't use much water, you might get sort of a slurry, which would cut faster but leave a less fine edge than clear water. Just thinking out loud. But the effect is minimal for most of us because typically we do one or two razors, about 40 laps per grade, in a session, which is not enough to make much of a slurry. I have done a dozen at one sitting and there was a detectable slurry, though in truth it was probably mostly swarf (grindings from the steel, not abrasive particles from the film) Bottom line: do it like you feel it, because it probably doesn't make all that much difference. Just keep it wet for best results, and if you are out in the desert with no water, no worries. Dry film will still hone.

Yeah, I wouldn't say that one edge has necessarily been better than another, just different. I have seen what I would consider most likely swarf and not slurry, but I'm no expert and with my swarlurromometer in the shop for repair, I don't have the means to analyze the mystery sludge.

And I'm with you guys...I tried taping the spine once, and it made me feel icky.
 
Top Bottom