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Lapping film, try it.

But like Goldilocks (Baldylocks is more like it), perhaps 2um will be "juuuust right".��
:laugh:

3um followed by 1um will keep your razor going indefinitely

I typed this in another thread, but, hey, I'm just here for the post count......................

I revisited a shave-ready (in my opinion) razor, that I just "refreshed" with 1um and .03 um.........Because of reading your suggestion, in this thread, and I used 3um, then 1um, and then the .03um. Then, I shaved with it, and, it "felt" smoother, and, the shave was wonderful.

Thank you. And, I think that All my reading, here, has lead me to realize that the "shave test", or "MY shave test" is the ONLY standard that matters.
 
Haven't posted in the honing section for a while and I just wanted to say, "Thank you!" to Seraphim for his valiant efforts in promoting the value of film. Huzzah!!!

I've been straight shaving for over two years and I now use film for 100% of my refining and maintenance.
It's the easiest way to keep your razor sharp.
Now that my rotation has settled in to using 4 straights and their bevels are basically set for life, my rocks are collecting dust and the CrOx is in the dustbin.

Oh, I suppose I may break out my Nortons and Coti if I need to reset, but at this point, film is keeping me in DFS territory.
 
Haven't posted in the honing section for a while and I just wanted to say, "Thank you!" to Seraphim for his valiant efforts in promoting the value of film. Huzzah!!!

I've been straight shaving for over two years and I now use film for 100% of my refining and maintenance.
It's the easiest way to keep your razor sharp.
Now that my rotation has settled in to using 4 straights and their bevels are basically set for life, my rocks are collecting dust and the CrOx is in the dustbin.

Oh, I suppose I may break out my Nortons and Coti if I need to reset, but at this point, film is keeping me in DFS territory.
Ding Ding Ding!

If I remember correctly you were one of the judges in "The Thrila in Manila"
 
He was paid off by Doc!

I take credit cards via PayPal!
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As I recall, both razors were virtually identical during the first day's round but, by day two, the film honed razor developed a few small chips.
Even with the chips, it was a tough call!
 
I decided to join in the fun and ordered a set of lapping film this morning, (sheets of 3M in 30, 15, 12, 9, 5, 3 and 1).I am looking forward to trying it out when I start my first restoration. I will share my results when available. I have a deal of experience sharpening woodworking tools, but no razors so far.
 
My first lot of film just arrived in the post....It is 3M and has a sticky back. What do people do with this? Stick the film onto a plate and then wet the top surface?
 
So, I am at the honing stage for my restoration razor. I have to say I am LOVING the lapping film. I ran 500 laps on a 15um sheet of film (~1000g according to Lee Valley), followed by 300 laps on a sheet of 3um film. The razor is ALREADY cutting arm hair like it was nothing, and I still have the 0.5 um and 0.1 um sheets to go.

For the time being, these films will be what I use to sharpen everything shave related.
 
So, I am at the honing stage for my restoration razor. I have to say I am LOVING the lapping film. I ran 500 laps on a 15um sheet of film (~1000g according to Lee Valley), followed by 300 laps on a sheet of 3um film. The razor is ALREADY cutting arm hair like it was nothing, and I still have the 0.5 um and 0.1 um sheets to go.

For the time being, these films will be what I use to sharpen everything shave related.

I normally manage very well once the bevel is set with about 100 laps progressing down 5um, 3um, 1um on paper.

15 um works well for bevel set, but you should be cutting arm hair/cherry tomatoes before you leave the bevel set film.. after that you're
just making the edge smoother progressing to smaller grits.

Which Lee valley film are you using? the sticky back diamond stuff, or the regular non-sticky back?
 
I normally manage very well once the bevel is set with about 100 laps progressing down 5um, 3um, 1um on paper.

15 um works well for bevel set, but you should be cutting arm hair/cherry tomatoes before you leave the bevel set film.. after that you're
just making the edge smoother progressing to smaller grits.

Which Lee valley film are you using? the sticky back diamond stuff, or the regular non-sticky back?

Yes, at 500 laps I was probably going overboard, but I wanted to be certain of the bevel. And, yes, it was cutting hair very nicely after that.

I am using the sticky-backed stuff, set down on their granite base plate. Just need to finish up with the 0.1 um sheet now. did 200 laps on the 0.5 um and the arm hair is popping off almost on contact. I am probably overstating, but it really is a thrill for a rookie.

Thinking of touching up the edge on my Wostie after all is said and done.
 
Yeah, thats what i do and it work fine, take it slow sticking it down to make sure you don't get any dust or air bubbles under it, if possible use a different plate for each grade of film as it's not that easy to unstick and re stick!!

Thank you. It worked out ok...one side shaved relatively smoothly and gave me a smooth face. The other side didn't really shave!
 
Thank you. It worked out ok...one side shaved relatively smoothly and gave me a smooth face. The other side didn't really shave!

Take care that the edge is on the film at all times, same as honing, very light, weight of blade. You know it works since one side of the blade ended up sharp. So now it's just a question of practice. Good luck.
 
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