The problem with cold blue is it doesn't stand up to wear very well. Heck even a leather holster will rub the hot blue from a manufacturers process off with time. On a Kami I can’t see that being aproblem. On a western straight, where the tang rubs the scales I fear it might wear and look rather silly. Which is too bad really.
I am not stuck on the polished metal of a razor though I think it looks great. I would prefer the function of a blued razor and all the benefits bluing would give the razor. This might be a function of the fact that I can’t maintain my razors worth a damn… For some reason whether I put my razors in my bed room, or leave them in the den (and yes I dry them well), they continually show signs of rust and black spots - it's more than patina. It drives me nuts.
If anyone has uses a cold blue on their razors with scales I would dearly like to know how it held up! After seeing kentos work, I can’t get the idea out of my head. Perhaps I’ll take one for the team lol, and post how it all turns out if no one pipes up.
tang shouldn't be an issue if you can throw some thin washers there. i haven't seen anyone follow up on the Baxter not a replica blued blade, only one person reported purchasing it...
--Jon. "Love me some 14s"
Looking at this one - it does look a bit odd all black doesn't it!
with black sclaes it could be call the stealth shaver.
Chris. - BOTSS
Wow, thats a neat piece! I hyper-love my karouchi finish Takeda kitchen knives which I use daily, and REALLY REALLY REALLY want a straight with a similar finish. If anyone has one on standby, I would love to pick it up from you...I kind of need it to be shave ready though because I dont know how to sharpen :( Nice info though on here too, how to reblack and all - so cool!
Just tried a cursory round of blueing an old shortie I had. It seems the shiny polished blade surface resists the cold blue process a bit more than the satin of the Kamisori. The blue rubs off here and there easily. I think a scuffing up with 1k wet/dry might be the ticket. If I ever get it to be nice Ill do a few GDs.
I was thinking of using Oxpho-Blue Creme. I am thinking it may be more forgiving and you can forget it for a while and let it work. It's the second one in this review of three. http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/lid=1...uing-Touch-Ups Bluing does take some time and layers. Good luck!!
The instant blues, marketed as cold blues do not have much penetration if any at all. That's why you aren't having any luck on the polished blade. The hot blue process provides a much better protective surface. Traditional rust bluing, the real cold blue process, IMO provides the best jet black finish and the best level of protection. Pistols in cold blue resist holster wear much better than the newer hot blued guns. Another option is to parkerize that sucker, especially if you want a flat finish.
http://archives.gunsandammo.com/cont...ld-rust-bluing True rust bluing calls for putting your blade into boiling water...
Last edited by Earcutter; 03-27-2012 at 09:31 PM.
I know this is old news but I found a sword maker not to far from me (http://www.coreasword.com/ its in Korean but you can see what kind of swords they make. It was featured in the History Channel - don't put to much importance on that) and I was wondering if they could possibly reblack a kamisori. I know some swords have had clay applied to them and then put in the fire ( I know nothing of metallurgy just watching videos and reading some articles.). If anything, what should I tell them in order to accomplish this task?
if you want it blacked try one of the home methods listed above... but please do not let anyone put heat to it.... it will destroy your treasure....
a nice walk in the woods helps me relax and relieves tension....
the fact i'm dragging a shovel and a body should be irrelevant...