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Need repair info for a cracked handle.

I have a gold plated Tuckaway style handle. Its cracked on both ends. I have heard to epoxy the handle. Can someone tell me how to do this without making a complete mess out of this thing. BTW the plating is in very good shape as well.



$New Tuckaway Type 001.jpg
 
well I haven't done this with any razor, but normally two part epoxys are pretty forgiving. They have a relatively long set time (compared to superglue) so you can mix, coat section that fits into barrel, press into barrel, wipe off excess (wipe it off in a way that doesn't get epoxy into the nice design - this is very important!) and align/straighten/?? before it sets. This assumes that the pieces do pull apart..
 
well I haven't done this with any razor, but normally two part epoxys are pretty forgiving. They have a relatively long set time (compared to superglue) so you can mix, coat section that fits into barrel, press into barrel, wipe off excess (wipe it off in a way that doesn't get epoxy into the nice design - this is very important!) and align/straighten/?? before it sets. This assumes that the pieces do pull apart..

+1 on this
I got a syringe of epoxy from Walmart with a mixing tip on it and ran a bead on the ferrule that connects to the head. Then pressed it in and used a washcloth to remove extra. Held it until i felt it get a little warm and left it for a day to cure.
 
Sorry to say, but this is pretty well terminal. The epoxy will fill the gap but will not stop the cracking. However, if there was some way to "drill stop" the end of the crack, you may be able to stop the crack from spreading and use the epoxy to fill the gap. Best of luck.

V.
 
I've been considering buying a few grungy one pieces to try stress relieving:

Stress Relieving

Stress relieving is aimed to reduce or eliminate residual stress, thereby reducing the likelihood that the part will fail by cracking or corrosion fatigue in service. Parts are stress-relieved at temperatures below the normal annealing range that do not cause recrystallization and consequent softening of the metal. Residual stresses contribute to this type of failure, which is frequently seen in brasses containing 15% zinc or more. Even higher-copper alloys such as aluminum bronzes and silicon bronzes may crack under critical combinations of stress and specific corroding, and all copper alloys are susceptible to more rapid corrosion attack when in the stressed condition.
Stressed phosphor bronzes and copper nickels have comparatively slight tendencies toward stress-corrosion cracking; these alloys are more susceptible to fire cracking, which is cracking caused when stressed metal is heated too rapidly to the annealing temperature. Slow heating provides a measure of stress relief and minimizes non-uniform temperature distributions, which lead to thermal stress.
Using a high stress-relieving temperature for a short time is generally considered best for keeping processing time and cost to a practical minimum, even though there is usually some sacrifice in mechanical properties. Using a lower temperature for a longer time will provide complete stress relief with no decrease in mechanical properties. Actually, the hardness and strength of severely cold worked alloys will increase slightly when low stress-relieving temperatures are used.
An additional benefit of a thermal stress relieving is dimensional stability of cold-formed parts. Also, it is often advisable to stress relieve welded or cold formed structures. For these structures, stress-relieving temperature is 85 to 110[SUP]o[/SUP]C above that used for mill products of the same alloy.

I'm trying to try and find a more definitive answer, but so far, I'm looking at 450* with gradual warm up, held for about an hour.

If properly "tweaked" stress relieving would stop the progress of cracking, and would protect uncracked brass bodies.

You can do it in a kitchen oven...:wink2:
 
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