Another Shaving Journal....

Shave #5.

It was a slow morning. Nothing pressing, and no reason to go public. So I took a little extra time on those same three passes.

I focused on being a little more delicate today. I also stepped a little closer to the mirror and tried something akin to blade buffing. I was making multiple passes and watch the progress, trying to fine tune my stroke. I'm not sure it helped much. Either way, shaves are betting better. Less burn today. No blood, and a step closer to a SAS.

No hanging strop yet. I'm considering it, but I'm hesitant to throw money at the problem, when I know 90% of the solution is skill. Still, I'm keeping my eyes open for one.

i don't if i would say a hanging strop is throwing money at a problem. however i have never used a paddle so i don't how it works and if there is no leather piece anymore if i understood correctly.

starshaving has some inexpensive strops http://shop.starshaving.com/Leather-Hanging-Strops_c2.htm

Shave #6

It was a new personal best this morning. I left the house with a 95% straight razor shave. I used a DE to touch up a spot on my jawline, that's all. It's not a super smooth shave, but SAS achieved.

The details:

With 5 ham-fisted shaves and little stropping skills, I had wrecked the edge on my Torrey. It was no longer cutting. I was rescued by global_dev. I dropped by and within a few hours I had an education in honing and a fresh edge to prove it. He also helped me hone a second razor, a W&B I had just finished restoring. So now I have two straights I can rotate until I learn proper maintenance skills.

(While visiting I got a chance to browse part of his collection. He’s got some beauties in there, and don’t let him say different. That’s when I noticed an R41, and a non-folding Feather. He caught my admiring eyes and offered them as loaners. That’s what I played with between straight shaves 5 and 6. But that’s another story.)

So this morning I lathered up and gave it a go. The sharper edge made quite a difference. I took my time, watched my angles, and gave it a few passes. After WTG, XTG, XTG I had a sub-SAS shave with no blood. I was a bit frustrated by the poor shave quality, but my confidence handling the blade was improving. I figured what-the-heck, and went for an ATG pass.

With only two swipes, I knew it wouldn’t work. Even stretching skin taught and firm, the feedback was more than I felt comfortable controlling. I pulled out the paddle and started stropping. I gave it 50 laps on leather and tried again. Wow. It was a very noticeable difference. There was still some drag as I pushed against the grain, but it seemed bearable, little more than an ATG with a DE. I focused on patient control and got my first SAS. One weeper on my lip, and all was fine.

After a WH rinse, I noticed an obvious missed spot under my jawline. A quick swipe with a DE remedied that. Otherwise, it was my first successful straight shave.

I emptied my brush on the strop, and then I gave it 100 laps before putting it away. It was interesting as the lather first lubricated the strop, and within 10 laps I felt far more drag. After stropping I gave my arm a quick test shave and was pleasantly surprised. I’m getting this stropping thing figured out. I’ll keep it up, and keep my stroping numbers high until I get confident enough to scale back explore the differences.

I’m going to stick with the Torrey for a few more shaves. I’m excited about the W&B, and something tells me it’ll be easier/closer. But for now, one weapon at a time. I’ll monitor my progress as a shaver and stropper, with fewer variables to track.

Not perfect, but close enough for work. It was an encouraging day.

What did you think of the non folding Feather? Is it an SS?

noahpictures said:

What did you think of the non folding Feather? Is it an SS?

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I don't know the models enough to say exactly what I was holding. I do know: that's thing is merciless. I like how it felt. It could be a nice travel straight. But the professional blades were unforgiving in my novice hands. I sat it asside, to be revisited later. I'm due to return it to global_dev in a few weeks.

Its the ac ss

global_dev said:

Its the ac ss

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I just got mine seconds ago. Hadn't planned to shave today....

The problem with the ac ss is how it can make your best honing job feel inadequate.

#7

I woke early, and took my time. Today I was to babysitting my nephew. It was a no-pressure shave. I took my time and made 4-passes, finishing with a halting ATG. By the end I was feeling a bit over-shaved, but managed to squeeze out a near-SAS. I called it close enough. (He's three years old. He won't care.) Lots of stropping today. I did 50 laps before the first stroke. Then 50 laps before the last pass, and 100 before I shelved the blade. The DE stayed dry. Frist 100% straight shave. Still having issues with my chin. My 5pm shadow arrived mid-afternoon. Lots of work to be done. Not a shave worthy of a day at work, and no were near worthy of an outing with the wife.

#8

Casual plans with the wife today, but I went for a straight shave anyway. Three passes, but I didn’t complete the last one. I was going ATG when I nicked myself on the jawline. I got frustrated and caught myself before doing it again. I stopped everything, rinsed, re-lathered, and punted. I used a DE to clean-up the rough spots.

Still stropping in volume. It seems to make a significant difference. While I ordered a new stop a few days ago, it hasn’t arrived yet. There is some question regarding the quality of the paddle strop I’m using now. That’s why I’m still using the Torrey. If the strop, or my stropping is sub-standard, I’m reserving the hone-fresh W&B for a short time. Still, it’s testing my patience. My arm tests make the W&B seem significantly sharper. It’s also wider, with a much more hollow grind. I’m anxious.

#9

It’s Monday, and it’s back to work again. I attempted three passes. No blood today. Overall, my comfort level is improving greatly. Far less fumbling about. I’m getting a feel for how to hold a straight for the multitude of swipes. I’m going slowly, and paying particular attention to my angles.

After the second pass, an XTG, I was still disappointed with the shave. It seems the skilled straight shavers don’t do an ATG, or don’t do it much. At least I don’t read about them as often. It seems that an ATG is required for me to get anything close to a good shave. This is confusing/frustrating to me.

I just tried to start a poll asking this question. Do you go ATG? a. Everyday everywhere. b. Sometimes in some places, or c. Not on your life. No luck with the posting. I'll try again later.

I lathered for a third pass, ATG, and stropped. After about 1/4[SUP]th[/SUP] of the pass, I got frustrated and pulled out the DE.

Really anxious to try the W&B. The ‘known good’ stop is due to arrive any day now.
Today also starts a few weeks of travel. I’m domestic for this week, and off to France next week. I have until about 2pm to decide if I’m packing a straight for the trip. Before going to the airport, I’ll be swinging by the house. I'm hoping the strop arrives. Fingers crossed.

Mild frustration, but I’m a stubborn cuss. No thoughts of quitting yet.

i think many, if not most, do an ATG. I'd be surprised if they didn't. I don't often, because it's not worth it to me most days, my 2 pass is way close enough... Cost/Benefit Analysis doesn't add up for my lifestyle.. change the angle on the different passes. not the same as a DE. try the W&B, it's already stropped... honestly, throw the torrey on the bay... you'll have a much easier time with the angles with the larger blade...

I'm also a two passer. I'm able to get pretty close to BBS on a 2 pass shave and I have a normal to slightly coarse beard. I really gained some improvement in closeness when I started using guillotine & scything strokes. I work in a corporate environment and I'd be ok if I had to go two days.

Also, I think to the point global_dev has - I have found a blade that gives me exceptional shaves for some reason. Maybe it's the size - I still have a rotation but that ekes just a bit more closeness.

As a fellow newbie whenever I become frustrated or try to be perfect I nick myself. I think we get in trouble when we try to do too much too soon. There is no shame in punting, it's only the first quarter.

Brent said:

Also, I think to the point global_dev has - I have found a blade that gives me exceptional shaves for some reason. Maybe it's the size - I still have a rotation but that ekes just a bit more closeness.

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i am sure there is someone who can say if it has an edge, I am gonna shave with it... it's functional, but IMHO it's not worth the time... this torrey is small, like a 7/16s to 4/8s. I give props to cameraflier wanting to use it, i am sure he'll eventually get to nice shaves with it. i love the shaves a 6/8s+ give. maybe it's a crutch since i can see the angles more, but it sure ain't a lube strip or safety bar. i don't even really enjoy the 5/8s dovo BL i have. yeah it shaves, but i want to really enjoy the experience.

#10

-First hotel straight shave.
I'm a regular traveler, and every hotel mirror is different. This one seems a long way away.

-First time using a hanging strop (it came out of the shipping box and into my suitcase in one motion.)
It's a Star Shaving strop, and I like it. Bang for the buck, it's an 11.

-First straight shave with a cream. All others were home with Tabac. I have Bigelow in my travel kit.
The Bigelow might make me a cream guy with straights. I was always a soap user, except that creams travel easier. I like the extra slickness. We shall see.

I stropped with the new toy, and two passes WTG and XTG. It went surprisingly well. I don't know if it's the cream or the better strop, but things seemed to cut much more smoothly. An arm check showed the blade wasn't it's sharpest, but it felt better on my face. Two passes left me just sub-SAS. I pulled out the travel DE. Today a nice shave is somewhat required. I chose not to chance wrecking my face too much. A quick DE ATG cleaned things up. It was a noticeably quiet pass too. My straight work must be improving.

Slightly more burn today. That might be the Tabac cushion I'm missing. I've done more passes with less burn at home. Oh well. Now I feel justified for skipping the third straight pass.


#11

It was another hotel shave this morning. Nothing exciting. (That's a good thing.)

I keep hearing mention of guillotine or scything strokes. I've found myself slowly working these into my shave. Between the new strop and these strokes, and maybe my evolving skill set, my shaves are getting better. My results after WTG and XTG have improved. I gave ATG another try this morning, but punted again. It was catching too much for my liking. An arm check showed that regardless of all my stropping, my edge is fading. Tonight I'll be back home. I'll swap straights and try my #2 with it's fresh edge. I'll also watch a few more stropping videos, as I'm hesitant to blame the hardware. (global_dev's comments are appreciated)

A side note: I keep a mostly duplicate shave kit for the road. With one or two weeks a month in hotels, it simplifies packing. I finally picked up a second brush a few days ago. At a local 'variety shop' I saw boar brushes for $13, in a holder that looked perfect for travel. I've been using it this trip, and I'm impressed. My home brush is badger, but three years of heavy-handed face lathering has taken a toll. As I look for a replacement for the home brush, boar is now an option. I'm curious too see how this cheap one breaks in.


Smooth shaving gents....

#12

100% straight shave this morning. The DE stayed dry. Not a DFS, but nothing to be bashful about. No blood (mostly) and no patchy scruff. My first solid SAS.

Details:

My travel kit made it home safe, straight included. I’m home for the next two shaves, and then I’m on the road again.

This morning was my first shave with the W&B. I moved from a wedge-ish 4/8, to a full hollow 6/8. I’m sure my feeble skills missed the subtleties of the transition. All I can say is wow. This razor seems so much more delicate, and the width makes the blade angle much more apparent. It’s hone-fresh too. I like it. Is it the golden key to shaving? I’m not sure, but it sure helps.

Three passes. WTG and XTG went quick, loud, and uneventful. Much credit goes to the hone-fresh blade. Next I got bold and went for a ATG pass. It worked out ok. The only issues were my cheeks. I’m a skinny guy, and when I pull my skin up and taught, my cheeks become a bit concaved. Traditionally I’ve remedied this by holding just a bit of air inside my cheek to force it flat. The straight kept catching here. Hopefully I’ll find the magic angle for the blade or the pass, and cure this little spot of stubble. Today I was left with a few micro weepers and some burn.

Otherwise, it was a good shave. I can see a little sub-DFS in the mirror, but not so much that I reached for the DE for touch-up. Today is a low pressure day at work, so I declared this close enough.

When I finished, I stropped 40 on wool felt and 60 on leather. An arm check showed I still have a sharp blade. That’s welcome news. I’ll probably strop it again before the next shave. (I did some reading on wool felt as a strop material. The community seems to be quite polarized about this stuff. Curious.)

Regarding brushes, I tried Tabac with the boar and was disappointed. I thought the firm brush would tear into this soap. Maybe it did, but it took forever to build a lather. I think I’ll leave it in my travel kit, with the Bigelow. They make a better pair, and they travel well.

I have about 36 hours to decide what I’m taking overseas for a week. It’ll probably be the W&B in a checked bag, with a DE as back-up. I’ll slip the new strop in with my hang-up clothes. It seems to travel fine that way.

Sounds to me like you're doing fine. It took me 6 weeks before I was satisfied with a straight only shave. About 9 weeks now and still doesn't happen every day.

#13

An new personal best, SAS+. I'd call it a near-CCS. It's missing some "comfortable."

Details:
Today is Saturday, and I'm taking it easy. Long shower, and long shave.

I did three full passes this morning, but I still needed some touch-up. The corners of my mouth, right side of my chin, and right side of my adam's apple all needed help. Feeling bold, I lathered back up and took after those spots with the straight. Practice makes perfect, right?

It worked. It was a 100% straight only shave, and set a new best. I had a few weepers, and a little burn here and there. If not for that I'd have called this a CCS shave. Granted, it took me 45 minutes. That's a personal best slow shave. But it was Saturday, I had time to invest in this one. I'm also flying on the red eye tonight. There won't be a Sunday entry in this log. So I made Saturday count.

Things that mattered:

- I tried a two hand approach to my upper lip during the ATG pass, with a finger on the barber's notch. It felt like training wheels. It was only in a few places, but helped.

- I stropped 20 laps between passes. I figured that was insurance. I wanna see how long I can make this edge last.

- Occasionally I think I'm getting the pressure right. I remind myself that it's all about cutting hair, not face. If I can minimize face-blade contact, while cutting hair, that's gotta be a good thing.

- Product. Over the last few weeks my Tabac hasn't been performing. As my #2 favorite product, I was getting grumpy about it. I even tried a different brush. I had generally decided to pitch it. I went to pry it from the bowl, when it suddenly collapsed on itself. It was semi-hollow. (!?!?) I guess it had hydrated while I'm home, and dried while I travel, resulting in an inner honeycomb structure. What I thought was 1/2 a puck, I managed to compress into 1/4. I gave it another try today and it lathered like the Tabac I remember. Good product matters.


Happy shaving...

That's weird about the Tabac. Do you think it was a manufacturing problem?

glad to hear the shaves are getting better. i would think a loading of tabac is a loading regardless if it looks like 1/2 a puck or 1/4 of a puck... either way, as long as it works now

Agreed. I think it was the mashing that helped. I searched around and others had commented on Tabac swelling, and after some time loosing it's lather. I'm guessing the mashing mixed some up-spent soap up to the surface where I could get it. Either way, that puck is nearly gone.... I'm hotel shaving all this week. In Paris. It's been interesting. Shave journal entries to follow... Yes, I have MdC in my suitcase.