My "Gold Slash" 7 day set

Slash McCoy said:

For those adventurous free spirits who, with little knowledge, have plunged into the unknown with dremel and GD in hand, here is an explanation, as I see it, of the bevel and the geometry of the hollowground razor.
http://www.thevoicestoldme.com/straightrazor/bevel.html
And here is the download page for BevelCalc:
http://www.thevoicestoldme.com/straightrazor/bevcalc.html
The razor area of my site is very much a work in progress and most links just go out into the aether and don't do anything yet. I have uploaded the windows version and the linux version but not the three mac versions yet. Enjoy and please report any bugs. I have not even tested the linux or mac ports since I have a windows puter.

Click to expand...

seems to work on mac lion

says spine "thickn" not thickness.

global_dev said:

seems to work on mac lion

says spine "thickn" not thickness.

Click to expand...

Thanks for that! I don't believe it. I'm a Mac programmer and I haven't even touched a Mac!

I gave one question can we remove the shoulders without a dremal.
What is the easiest tool ( a File or 80 grit sand paper)

Rschan said:

I gave one question can we remove the shoulders without a dremal.
What is the easiest tool ( a File or 80 grit sand paper)

Click to expand...

the blade is hardened steel..... you can try a file but your gonna be there a while.......

you need mechanical assistance.... harbor freight tools has a little dremel like creature for $11..... it will do what you need.......

Rschan said:

I gave one question can we remove the shoulders without a dremal.
What is the easiest tool ( a File or 80 grit sand paper)

Click to expand...

Paco's answer is best but if you are interested, you can also get electric drill stones that will do it - they will just do it a bit slower and you'll have to be careful. The cost is usually pretty reasonable. $1.50 or so. However, I really like the Dremel option. If you scrounge around, you can get some nifty attachments that make grinding and polishing small areas a piece of cake. I like to use the 80 grit sanding drum to take the shoulder down a bit and then the rubber polishing wheel to clean up the greebles.

Rschan said:

I gave one question can we remove the shoulders without a dremal.
What is the easiest tool ( a File or 80 grit sand paper)

Click to expand...

You will wear the file out before you do much more than scratch the razor. Sandpaper? Maybe, with custom shaping some sanding blocks, and going through an awful lot of sandpaper and a lot of time. I will put it this way... hand sanding a GD blade just to get the factory grind marks out of the blade takes a couple of days. That's why we use the Dremel. Or a cheap knockoff.

Rschan said:

I gave one question can we remove the shoulders without a dremal.
What is the easiest tool ( a File or 80 grit sand paper)

Click to expand...

~~~ http://www.harborfreight.com/80-piece-rotary-tool-kit-97626.html


Best,


Jake
Reddick Fla.

I tried a file, and some parts of the blade are much harder than other parts of the blade. On one blade I tried the tip cut easily and smoothly with the file, I even made it a square point. The heel was much harder and the file would not bite. The other blade I tried the file would not bite at all

I was using an old, worn mill file. I had the blade clamped in a very simple jig of a 2x2 clamped in my vise with a 1x2 clamped over it.

Phil

Thanks Guys, I have a power Drill are is there any way using it?
May be with some attachment ?

Rschan said:

Thanks Guys, I have a power Drill are is there any way using it?
May be with some attachment ?

Click to expand...

It would be very clumsy, unhandy, and awkward, but it is within the realm of possibility. Just get the same sanding drum attachment and the same sanding drums that the Dremel guys use. You will find that synthetic rotary stones cut slowly and tend to skitter all over your piece. You can also try cutting a cross pattern into the end of a short wooden dowel, and sticking sandpaper strips into the cuts, trimming as desired. Or glue a longer strip around it. I have had mixed success with this method. Things happen.

I would get a Dremel or a knockoff. You will find a lot of uses for this very handy tool. A regular hand electric drill does not lend itself well to this sort of work. If you try it, have some extra Gold Dollars handy because bad things will probably happen to the one you are working on while you are learning to work around a drill's limitations.

Oh, a reminder... wear eye protection! Things happen. Goggles or full face shield are much better than safety glasses.

Thanks slash This is a wonderful thread

I have good news and bad news.
I started the shoulder removing with the power Drill with a small 2 small grinding wheels ( cylinder , and cone type) . Since this is my 1 st time with the tool it took some hours and shoulders of both sides removed. Then disaster struck,
The grinding wheel slipped removing a small chip of the edge near the heal.
The sight is really heartbreaking.
One other thing the edge seems to have a juuust a small smile ( There is more steel in middle and when I place the edge on a glass plate I can see that).
Now What are my options ?
One more thing as I cant afford DMTs I'm thinking of completing job entirely on different grit papers.
If I try to remove the chip and correct the edge lot of metal have to be removed and my patience is running out.
Now my plan is to neglect that chip and continue with rest of the blade using 1K, 2K, and then with barber hones of 4K/8K
and a c12K.

Experts what do you think?

need a photo to properly assess the damage...

My camera is not giving good shots at all. The Chip about 0.5mm on the edge near the shoulder

Get out the low grit sandpaper, like 220 or 400, then when the nick is *just* gone start onto 800, 1000, then your films or stones. You can round out the shoulder/heel if that helps.

Pictures would help.

Phil

pics are needed do not despair its happened to alot of us, (me too). there is hope!

Rschan said:

I have good news and bad news.
I started the shoulder removing with the power Drill with a small 2 small grinding wheels ( cylinder , and cone type) . Since this is my 1 st time with the tool it took some hours and shoulders of both sides removed. Then disaster struck,
The grinding wheel slipped removing a small chip of the edge near the heal.
The sight is really heartbreaking.
One other thing the edge seems to have a juuust a small smile ( There is more steel in middle and when I place the edge on a glass plate I can see that).
Now What are my options ?
One more thing as I cant afford DMTs I'm thinking of completing job entirely on different grit papers.
If I try to remove the chip and correct the edge lot of metal have to be removed and my patience is running out.
Now my plan is to neglect that chip and continue with rest of the blade using 1K, 2K, and then with barber hones of 4K/8K
and a c12K.

Experts what do you think?

Click to expand...

~~~for one, I'd lose the grinding stones...everyone is using sanding drums for a reason...they wont catch and chip like you've found with what you are using

As the others mentioned...we're eagerly looking forward to a pic


Best,


Jake
Reddick Fla.

I got the job done very difficultly. Now started my bevel setting.
I did about 60 laps on 1K sand paper on a glass plate. Still not successful in shaving my arm hair. Microscope says there is a bevel.

1k sandpaper can give poor results. I would move on to your next bevel setter if there is a bevel visible with no flats on the edge. A strong "point" light source can aid in this, I use the canister light over the sink in the bathroom for inspection with a loupe.

Phil

Whats Next level ? ( 600K or 2000K )