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Scent/Fragrance of the Day - 2012

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M. Micallef - Red Sea

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Les Nez Turtle Vetiver Front No. 2--imagine a photo of a turtle chomping green grass-like plants here. <g>

Third day wearing this one. Very nice rather powerful vetiver that starts sharp and then softens a bit. But overall is pretty linear.

"Coconut lactone" is listed as a note. From an on-line review:

Coconut has a reputation to scare the horses, as it's been played to death by aroma-care companies that churn it out in devilish cones lurking at the back of Ukranian-driven taxis and overdoses that can turn rotten-sweet in suntan lotions and Pina Colada cocktails, but if those are your associations you need not worry: This is a new development in the industry we will be seeing more of, using coconut lactone to soften woody compositions and with the usual refinement of both Les Nez and Doyen the coconut facet is both subtle and delightful, merely giving a caress.

And another one:

the linchpin note which really elevates this, coconut lactone. Now I know you read coconut lactone and think pina colada and that is not what coconut lactone brings to Front. This feels almost like coconut oil more woody than sweet. That quality takes the vetiver and turns it smoky. It serves to accentuate that smoky character and to focus it. That further allows the oakmoss to provide depth and contour as it adds to the mix.

Makes sense to me.


Perfumer is Isabelle Doyen. She has my attention with this one.
 
I've been curious about this one and you're great review has convinced me that I need to sample Turtle Vetiver! How does it compare to other vetiver frags?

That's a big question! There are lots of excellent vetivers out there, and vetivers are diverse. There is not one continumum for them. Any ones in particular you had in mind? I am not really good at comparisons.

That said, the longevity on this one is amazing. And to me the vetiver utterly dominates, whereas in many vetivers there is a lot going on. For intance the cigarette ash notes of Guerlain. This one is sharp especially at the beginning. While it softens, it does not soften on all much. So to me MPG Route du Vetiver is greener and much swampier. Mazzolari is much greener, too, and has lots going on. MPG Racine is softer.

This one reminds me of Lorenzo Villorezi Vetiver, probably my all time favorite. It has quite a bit of the punch of Sigilli Athunis, without the cedar. Definitely toward Malle Vetiver. Each of the foregoing vetivers is outstanding to my nose.

I know I am leaving a bunch out. Vetiver is my favorite genre of scents.
 
Of the ones you mentioned I am only familiar with Route de Vetiver, and Malle's Vetiver. One of the reviews that you quoted mentioned the "smokey" character of vetiver. When I think smoky vetiver I think Encre Noir and L'Occitane Vetyver. At the moment I prefer a smokier vetiver scent but that'll change as we get warmer weather up here in the Pacific NW.

I did leave out Encre Noir and L'Occitane Vetyver. I should not have and I agree, at least as to the former re smoky. And perhaps the "biggest"--maybe too big for me--and a very smokey vetiver, Profumum Fumundis. The Turtle Front No. 2 to me does not have much smoke at all although some reviews say it does. I love L'Occitane. I think it is an excellent of vetiver prominant with a lot of other things going on that are typical of L'Occitane's entire line and befitting its Provence origin.

Annick Goutal has an iodiney quality that it reminescent of driftwood and the beach. Some reviews say Turtle Front No. 2 has some, too. I do not get it really, but there is a reminder of the sea in this that may be more than the coconut.

There are scores of good vetivers.
 
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