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Scent/Fragrance of the Day - 2012

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Houbigant Fougere Royale (Vintage) today

Excellent choice!

I find that whenever I wear that one that I am always quite impressed that it consistently exceeds my expectations. I enter knowing that it is a wonderful fougere but exit with more than I could have hoped for. Don't know exactly what it is about it, but I always have a smile on my face while wearing it. It's almost as if it somehow goes that extra mile, and creates a sense of completeness that others simply don't bother doing. I hope that it does the same for you.
 
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Excellent choice!

I find that whenever I wear that one that I am always quite impressed that it consistently exceeds my expectations. I enter knowing that it is a wonderful fougere but exit with more than I could have hoped for. Don't know exactly what it is about it, but I always have a smile on my face while wearing it. It's almost as if it somehow goes that extra mile, and creates a sense of completeness that others simply don't bother doing. I hope that it does the same for you.

Bob, it is a great fragrance. Because of it being a vintage that is (i) so hard to find and (ii) so expensive, I don't tend to wear it. I put it on and immediately thought I was not smelling anything, but I periodically get a wonderful fresh green fragrance wafting up to me as the wind blows or I move the right way. When that happens, I am reminded of just what a wonderful masterpiece this is!
 
Halston - 1-12

Thought I would continue this weekend's theme with some more good old 70's and 80's powerhouse scents. This one is very green and has a long list of notes, too many for me to bother listing here. Back in the day, Z-14 was the more popular of the twins released by Halston, but I preferred 1-12 by a wide margin. Both are masculine to a fault, and the ladies (well the loose ones anyway) seemed to prefer the Z-14, but I couldn't help but actually enjoy wearing the 1-12 at the time. The 1-12 comes across as a bit more mature, and suave. (well, I'm not exactly sure that the term 'suave' applies when talking about a powerhouse scent, but I am using it anyway.) It always smelled nice, was attractive to the ladies at the time as well, and, well, it simply made me feel better at the time. I managed to acquire a vintage bottle of the juice and it's pretty much all that I remember it being; loud, green, yet somehow it seems to attempt to restrain itself from simply being JUST loud and green.

Upon reading the reviews, I noticed that there are quite a few references to one of the top notes, galbanum. I had to look that one up, and found that it is a prominent 'green' note in fragrances, that combines with a somewhat coniferous or 'piney' note. Looking further into other fragrances that contained the note, I came up with a list of around 200, only a few of which I was familiar with. One of the most popular (here anyways) was the discontinued "Jules." I simply had to do a quick test and found that they do indeed have a very close opening, but only for a few seconds. Jules seems to move into it's woody base very quickly, with the cedar note appearing first, while the 1-12 simply continues with the 'green' theme for a long time. I does transition into a pine like, or coniferous heart, but takes it sweet time doing so.

There are some moss, cedar, musk, amber and vanilla notes in the base, but the fragrance simply doesn't get overly sweet in it's drydown, rather it somehow retains it's greenness pretty much the entire time. I feel that this one is the one that should have been kept in production and it's brother Z-14 is the one that should have been discontinued, but I am sure that the sales figures and not the frag heads get to make those kinds of decisions.

This one can still be fairly easily found, and due to it's rather poor sales rate, may have even kept itself away from much, if any reformulation through the years. Knowing that I would only wear it once in a while, and was interested in the nostalgia factor, I tracked down an over thirty year old, unopened bottle. I am not sure it was actually worth the quest, but I am happy I did so, as it smells exactly like I remember.

As with yesterday's Paco Rabanne, MODERATION is key with this one, perhaps even more so. A throughly enjoyable blast from my past is occurring this weekend, and I think I will continue the theme tomorrow.

I feel that yesterday's Paco Rabanne is a better choice if you only had one to wear from that era, as it does seem to fit in with today's tastes a bit better. But for me, I am enjoying both.

As always, YMMV.

Completely agree re 1-12. Loved this one from first sniff in 1976.

Did you get a chance to compare your 30 year bottle with the recently discountinued version to see if you think any reformulations?

Z-14 is great, too. But I don't love it the way I do 1-12. Neither should be discontinued!
 
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Main Accords: balmy, smokey, woody, herbal, fresh spicy
 
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C&S Cuba

This is the second time I've worn this from a sample. The first time I was thinking that it may be bottle worthy. Now I don't know what I was thinking! The opening is horrid, the dry down is nice enough but at this point it certainly isn't full bottle worthy.
the one time I wore it, I kept checking my shoes thinking I stepped in dog poo
 
Completely agree re 1-12. Loved this one from first sniff in 1976.

Did you get a chance to compare your 30 year bottle with the recently discountinued version to see if you think any reformulations?

Z-14 is great, too. But I don't love it the way I do 1-12. Neither should be discontinued!

No, I have not bothered to see if I can find a more recent bottle, as I have enough for several lifetimes of the vintage juice. If it is anything like the other powerhouse scents, it will more than likely smell just about the same, but with a very weak and limited drydown. I have a very small recent bottle of Drakkar Noir and it smells almost exactly as memory, but only for the first five or ten minutes. Then it simply gets weak and is more or less a skin scent after an hour. That's NOT how it used to be, it may be more acceptable nowadays, but again, that's NOT how it used to be. This 1-12 is still going pretty strong after 11 hours now, it has not even begun to relegate itself to a skin scent, in fact the sillage is still pretty good at this time.

Yes, if all things were as an ideal universe, then both Z-14 and 1-12 would still be in production and both to their original formula. Alas, that's not the case, and when pitting one against the other, I feel that the Z-14 was by far the less unique of the two. Perhaps it would be more fair to say that the Z-14 was more typical of the time, and when wearing it I simply felt like one of the masses. When wearing the 1-12 I would always feel like an individual, yet at the same time, I fit in. Perhaps it was due to the simple fact that the Z-14 was so much more popular and therefore you were more likely to be one of many in a club wearing it, where with the 1-12 you may not even be there at the same time as someone else that wore it that night.

I almost like the current Drakkar Noir better than the vintage, though to be honest, it may be as a result of some bad memories. It seems that I often drank to excess when wearing it for some unknown reason, and by excess, I do mean EXCESS. It got to the point that I had to stop wearing it, as if I had only one drink while wearing it, I would have what could best be described as "flashbacks" and would have to put the drink down. By that time, I was well past the point in my life where the challenge was to see if I could make the bar run out of a particular liquor, but the memories still remained, and were not all that pleasant. I found that I could actually enjoy myself and a couple of drinks if I wasn't wearing DN. My curiosity got the better of me recently and I acquired a small current bottle and found that although the memories did indeed return, the were quite tempered by time, and perhaps nostalgia. I actually enjoyed the scent again, and was a bit let down after those few minutes, but perhaps the newly imposed restraint helped with the overall tolerance of the fragrance, I really don't know.

I also know that the bottle of Paco Rabanne that I wore yesterday, while the scent has changed little, if at all, did not last nearly as long as it did in the past. It always seemed to show more restraint than either Z-14, 1-12 or DN, but this time it became a skin scent after about six or so hours. The opening was just as strong, and even a couple of hours in, it still seemed to be going pretty strong, but before the day was over, it was just a skin scent, with very limited sillage. If this one has succumbed to re-formulation with synthetics it was a fairly acceptable one, as it did remain fairly true for quite a long time. I can honestly say that if more of the classic fragrances survived reformulation as well, then the whole argument would be pretty much a non starter. But I am pretty sure that initially all the reformulations are a bit closer to the originals, but over time succumb to many, incremental changes that by themselves are not even noticeable, but become oppressive when added together. The masses would likely not even notice several levels of change presented at once, but us fumeheads can clearly notice.

It would be my guess that when the fragrance houses were forced to use so many, more natural sources, attention was paid to quality. When they found that synthetics had arrived with quality scents, that rivaled the natural ones, they were more tempted to shop with price in mind. By the time that this had become the norm, some that had more limited lifetimes may have been the less expensive options, but if they smelled the same at first, and still did so after a couple of hours, then that may have closed the deal. Taken by itself it may not matter, but when you have so many different notes, the balance throughout the lifetime becomes a factor. Much like a soda, when it is fresh, and cold it's pretty good. Later, when the ice has melted into the drink, the drink has warmed to room temperature and the carbonation has all gone away, it's no longer appealing. Any one of those factors may not, by themselves be much of an issue, but all three, well, it's time for a fresh one.
 
C&S Cuba

This is the second time I've worn this from a sample. The first time I was thinking that it may be bottle worthy. Now I don't know what I was thinking! The opening is horrid, the dry down is nice enough but at this point it certainly isn't full bottle worthy.

the one time I wore it, I kept checking my shoes thinking I stepped in dog poo

I guess that explains the flies!:lol::lol::lol::lol:

:laugh: Guess you guys aren't civet fans...
 
Creed Efrolfa

I'm really starting to love this. It has definitely moved into the top 3 of my next full bottle purchases.
 
Crown - Fougere

I was originally planning of rounding out the weekend of powerhouse frags with some Drakkar Noir, but the recent talk about fougeres got the better of me. This one is perhaps the most like English Fern, but with some subtle differences. There is a slight barbershop overtone that really smooths out the fragrance and seems to make it a little less formal than it's counterpart. When smelled close, it is not quite as well blended as EF, but if you avoid keeping your nose to your wrist the entire day, then it's almost a bit smoother, and more relaxed. A real joy to wear, and pleasure to own.
 
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