Aggressive razors

[Reidar]

What exactly would I be getting myself into by purchasing an aggressive razor like the Futur? What exactly constitutes an "aggressive" razor? When I hear that term, I picture my Mach3 tugging and raking out the facial hairs, leaving irritation and redness behind. But apparently, straight razors are extremely aggressive to use, and for that reason they're not recommended for beginners. But aren't they infamous for how sharp they are? Does this mean that aggressive = sharp? My guess is yes; I've read that Feather razor blades are the sharpest, most aggressive blades you can get for your DE. But wouldn't sharpness equate to being LESS aggressive because it's easier to slice through the hairs with it? I'm thoroughly confused about this.

[AACJ]

I don't believe there are such things as agressive razors. When I got my Feather Artist Club RG from rustyblade, I originally thought it was aggressive, but started thinking. It was ME being aggressive not the razor, I toned down my strokes and got a glassy, baby butt smooth shave. I also applied that to my DE's (especially using the Feather DE's)

All of the above is subject to anyone elses opinion, it just happens to be mine.

[PortsmouthDavid]

I don't believe there are such things as agressive razors. When I got my Feather Artist Club RG from rustyblade, I originally thought it was aggressive, but started thinking. It was ME being aggressive not the razor, I toned down my strokes and got a glassy, baby butt smooth shave. I also applied that to my DE's (especially using the Feather DE's)

All of the above is subject to anyone elses opinion, it just happens to be mine.

I'd have to respectfully disagree with Art. I think there are definitely differences among razors.

For example, I own a Merkur HD and a 1940s Gillette Aristocrat. The Aristocrat is gentler in performance, and the blade exposure is visibly less than the Merkur.

In addition, the question of blade sharpness is quite interesting. I have a tough beard and sensitive skin, and even though it shaves very close, I can't always take the Feather blade. The "sharpness" (which some wet shaving folks refer to as "frequency" to connote not only actual sharpness, but also aggressiveness of blade geometry and how the blade angle is brought into contact with the face) is just too much for me. By contrast, a "lower frequency" blade (such as Derby or the Israeli Personna), takes noticeably more work to reduce the stubble, but it does the job and it doesn't beat up my face as much. Moral of the story: "SHARPER" does not necessarily equal "BETTER." I think this is especially true for a beginning wet shaver.

So, long story short, I believe there are real differences among razors and real differences among blades. It may take some tinkering and some experience to find the combination that is right for you.

Good luck, and don't hesitate to seek advice here on the board on this point (and anything else) as you experiment.

-- David

[With The Grain]

Ill split what both the previous guys have said and say that a razor is only aggressive if you use an aggressive angle or start messing with added pressure. Now of course various razors have differences in blade gap/exposure and i guess that could be looked at kind of like aggresiveness but i tend to not think of it that way.

[Kyle]

As you gents have pointed out, there are differences in every razor, blade, and razor & blade combo that you can find. Additionally, every item or grouping of items will perform at least a little differently for every gent.

When it comes to a razor's aggressiveness... semantics anyone? Certainly, the word aggressive can be taken to mean many different things when used to describe a razor, a blade, a technique, etc. In reference to a razor, I like to think of it as a razors ability or potential to provide a close shave while minimizing effort and the chance of adverse reactions.

A comparison that may help drive home my point: Let's say you have two pair of false teeth. The first set is perfect in every way (the teeth are perfectly aligned, etc.). The second set is an exact replica of the first, but every third tooth has been removed. Both sets are capable of biting and chewing up food. The teeth found in the second set are in no way inferior to their counterparts in the first set. The first set, however, could be viewed as more aggressive. They accomplish their designed purpose in a more efficient way with less work involved (unless your goal is to each corn on the cob through a chain link fence).

[With The Grain]

that certainly makes sense Kyle, my only counterpoint to it would be that in catching shaves with a GEM micromatic lately, i've been getting the equivalent reduction of almost 3 passes with any DE i own in 2 passes with the GEM. Thing is i would never call the GEM aggresssive, efficient for sure though. alas we are making fairly obvious how tough it is to define or label something aggressive.

In most cases when i use the term i think I'm almost more speaking of something being not quite user friendly and that in itself isnt very good use of the term i guess

[AACJ]

Ill split what both the previous guys have said and say that a razor is only aggressive if you use an aggressive angle or start messing with added pressure. Now of course various razors have differences in blade gap/exposure and i guess that could be looked at kind of like aggresiveness but i tend to not think of it that way.

I would agree with what you say. I may not have explained myself too well in the previous post. What I wanted to say is that any razor is only as aggressive as YOU make it to be. My Merkurs are not that aggressive, so I can torque it up a little with them and still get a great irritation free shave. My Gillette adjustable that Randy gave me, that's another story, if I use it with the same pressure and "heavy hand" as the Mekur, it's blood city, however, when I use a delicate hand (not a limp wrist) I get an irritation free shave, still a great shave.

Each razor and blade combination has their different levels of sharpness/aggressivness, but they are only applied to my face via the aggressiveness or lack there of from me. It just depends on the combination I use and my own pressure.

Oh, and I buy my corn, creamed.

[Kyle]

I would agree with what you say. I may not have explained myself too well in the previous post. What I wanted to say is that any razor is only as aggressive as YOU make it to be. My Merkurs are not that aggressive, so I can torque it up a little with them and still get a great irritation free shave. My Gillette adjustable that Randy gave me, that's another story, if I use it with the same pressure and "heavy hand" as the Mekur, it's blood city, however, when I use a delicate hand (not a limp wrist) I get an irritation free shave, still a great shave.

Each razor and blade combination has their different levels of sharpness/aggressivness, but they are only applied to my face via the aggressiveness or lack there of from me. It just depends on the combination I use and my own pressure.

Oh, and I buy my corn, creamed.

Very well stated. I think you've managed to capture what both James and I were getting at.

I also completely agree with the fact each razor has a different threshold for aggressiveness of use (the HD allows me to pressure blade while the Slant Bar does not).

[PortsmouthDavid]

Not to be immodest, but the razor in my photo, now THAT'S aggressive!

Seriously, I think you guys have just about said it all, but I think any newbie should consider that there are differences in hardware, as well as technique.

--David