Suit selection, style color

Ok you suave gentlemen, how about a suit roundup.

What are the classics that everyman should have, what style, what colors (seasons, occasions?). What about Blazers?

What are the eyesores that should be avoided? I vote seersucker (unless you are 75 and can pull off a straw hat and bow tie)

What is the deal with the shoe color? Evidently my wife was issued a clothing/shoe guide that she is hiding, but I can't seem to crack the code (Robert Langdon hasn't answered my email).

Opinions?

Not the answer you're looking for but, it depends.

Generally, however, I think the standards colors (in order of how I'd get them if I was just starting out): navy blue, grey, black, brown/khaki/olive (gotta get that color just right or it can look dated). Personally I really don't wear blazers much anymore, I'd almost always prefer a suit -- it looks more put together. A navy blazer is very classic, but I'd want something that looks more modern, rather than shiny gold buttons.


I wouldn't wear sharkskin. Seersucker might work, but only if you live in the south and only then is it ok in the summer. Generally suits should be made of wool.

Suit color: Shoe Color(s)
Navy: black, brown, cordovan
Grey: black, brown, cordovan
Black: black (I've seen brown...no)

The brown shoe paring with blue or grey can look very hip and modern. Maybe not best for a business meeting, however.

http://ficdn.fashionindie.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/picture-116.png

(sorry -- tried to add a pic, but not sure how to link)

Classics every man should have ...

Charcoal or dark grey flannel suit (winter weight)
Mid-to-lightish gray suit in summer weight cloth

To round out the classic suit wardrobe, add:
Navy pinstripe suit in summer-wieght or a bit heavier (but not winter-weight)
Beige linen suit

(... all single-breasted, two-piece suits )

Classic sportscoats ...
navy blazer ... skip the gold buttons unless you have a desire otherwise.
Harris Tweed sportscoat
summer-weight, light-coloured blazer


Eyesores to avoid ... cheap suits, poorly fitted or tailored suits (usually a size too big, with sleeves and pants waaay too long) ...


The deal with shoe colour: wear brown if at all possible, and that's more often than you probably think. (Unless your pants are black, brown or burgundy is an option.) The darker the pants/suit, the darker the shoes.

I've got a Navy Blazer, but I don't know how to work it in without having the fashion police coming down on me.

What color pants can go/not go with that?

Some people pull off blue jeans, I'm not sure of the etiquette on that. Tennis or brown shoes?

Can black pants go with a Navy blazer. I know khaki can. Navy pants with a navy blazer probably not, no?

Doc4 said:

Harris Tweed sportscoat

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I like the look of that but didn't now if it was old fashioned. What pants to or not to wear?

It seems like a hard rule is black shoes with black pants, otherwise avoid.

That is just the kind of thing I DIDN'T learn as a young man. Pugilism, football, baseball, hunting, fishing, shooting, mechanics, etc... yes, style... no.

What about the occasions to wear the different suits?

Black for funerals, ok, I have that down.

What about say a nice dinner with SWMBO? Or, a play/symphony/etc? Am I supposed to be matching her?

What is the deal with being overdressed/underdressed? Any hard rules to remember?

aceinyerface said:

I've got a Navy Blazer, but I don't know how to work it in without having the fashion police coming down on me.

What color pants can go/not go with that?

Some people pull off blue jeans, I'm not sure of the etiquette on that. Tennis or brown shoes?

Can black pants go with a Navy blazer. I know khaki can. Navy pants with a navy blazer probably not, no?

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Navy blazer -- lots of colors can go. Still some go better than others. Stick with grey, khaki, and tan. You can wear blue jeans with a navy blazer. The look requires a certain casualness, but there's a fine line between casual and sloppy. If you aren't sure, don't try to pull it off. NO navy or black pants. Ever.

Tennis shoes can work with the blue jeans look, but it's a very sporty look left for young, fashionable men. Brown/cordovan shoes are generally safer. And laced shoes are generally better with suits. With a blazer you can get away with loafers.

By the way, here's a quick guide for matching shoes and pants: http://www.askmen.com/fashion/fashiontip_150/162_fashion_advice.html

aceinyerface said:

What about the occasions to wear the different suits?

Black for funerals, ok, I have that down.

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Umm, occasions to wear suits: job interviews (unless it's a pretty low level job), weddings, funerals...whenever the event is important, it makes it more likely that you should be wearing a suit. But it's hard to have hard and fast rules. Normally, you wouldn't wear a suit to a party, but that depends on the theme. If it's a 50th birthday party or an engagement party at nice hotel, that might mean suit. If the same party were held at brunch, probably not. A lot depends on context. If in doubt ask SWMBO.

aceinyerface said:

What about say a nice dinner with SWMBO? Or, a play/symphony/etc? Am I supposed to be matching her?

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Nice dinner -- once in a while. Generally restaurants are pretty relaxed these days. In Chicago, only the very nicest restaurants require gentlemen to wear a jacket and in many cases, even fine dining establishments are ok with khakis and even jeans. I'd say if you have an event you want to celebrate or you're going to a very fancy restaurant, you can wear a jacket, otherwise, probably not. Plays and symphonies...depends on the city and time of day, even day of the week. I'd say if you're seeing the symphony or an opera in the evening, sure. Plays are harder because there's community theater (no) and then there's many levels well above that. Take a cue from SWMBO. You don;t have to match her, but if she's in jeans, you don;t want to be suited up and vice versa.

aceinyerface said:

What is the deal with being overdressed/underdressed? Any hard rules to remember?

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I'd rather be slightly overdressed than underdressed. Most importantly, be comfortable. And since you're asking about suits, I assume you haven't had a lot of experience wearing the. Get a suit tailored well. If a suit doesn't fit well, don't bother.

Personally, I currently have 2 dark gray with lighter pinstripes, 1 navy pinstripe, and a brown with navy pinstripes, which is my favorite. For blazers, I have cordury (usually worn with jeans), 2 heavy wool (herringbone in a greenish tint, more of a houndstooth), a brown kind of velvty one (syntehtic of some sort), and a tan houndstooth that is kind of ugly.

Event wise, I mostly wear the suits for work, though I don't need to (college prof, can wear whatever I want). Blazers for more casual events (dinner out, theater, etc). I agree I would rather be slightly overdressed than under dressed, but it is also pretty obnoxious to be too overdressed (business suit at a biker bar...).

if you feel you need suits.. I would go with a blue/navy and a charcoal/grey both in mid weight since I see you are in LA. Nice polished dark brown shoes and white spread collar ****s. Harris Tweed probably is over-kill down there. I would suggest a light winkle free (see ll bean/orvis) navy or tan sport jacket to wear with chino's or jeans this could be worn over a nice polo or cotton type casual shirt shoes would be some type of boat shoe or canvas shoes (as in Jack Purcell's) depending on your age.

I suggest a black blazer/sport coat. Can be worn with gray slacks or jeans.

For suit, navy blue mid weight the safest and most versatile. For shoes, most Angelenos wear black, but burgundy/cordovan is fine too...just makes you look more conservative.

Black suits here can be hip or make you look like a limo driver. They're not just for funerals. Like someone else said, black shoes...NO brown.

Why the need for suits?

As to the overdressed/underdressed rules...good luck. That seems to be changing quickly to the casual side. Here in Los Angeles, I'm observing the end of the suit in business.

I don't know of a restaurant here in Los Angeles that has anything resembling a dress code. Pants and shoes required I suppose.

There seems to be a common theme that suits are passé. I guess I am just ahead of the curve.

I think I'll just be sticking with my one black suit and one blue blazer and trot them out once or twice a year for S&G's.

aceinyerface said:

There seems to be a common theme that suits are passé. I guess I am just ahead of the curve.

I think I'll just be sticking with my one black suit and one blue blazer and trot them out once or twice a year for S&G's.

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I personally like them, but get a river of shyt for wearing them. But there are still some people who appreciate them. Mostly women. I learned to never wear them when shopping. People keep asking me where stuff is...

Aceinyerface, go to the Ask Andy About Clothes forum, and scroll down. On the left-hand side are a number of topics to select all dealing with clothes selection, fashion and coordination. These will give you some more information/opinions to consider.

My take on shoes is different. Wear black exclusively, unless you're wearing a brown suit. Not khaki, or beige, or sand-coloured- that equates to black shoes. Only very very brown suits allow you to wear brown shoes. I personally find many good quality shoes look much nicer in brown, but unless you're wearing jeans with them, black is better 99% of the time. The default HT is a grey herringbone (worn with black shoes). There are many weaves to go for with HT, but it's better to stay away from brown and go for hunting green, blue (even light blue herringbone can be very nice), grey or black. Herringbone tweed in these colours, white/ivory shirt (without tie), a good pair of very dark jeans and black shoes is a perfect look for almost anywhere.

I guess I am pretty conservative, but I always think a suit is in style, and looks good. I also like to dress up, and being tall 6'5", I am comfortable in suites. My suggestion would be one that I like right now, which is a navy light chalk light pinstripe. If you want something a little more casual, I have and have seen some dark green suites, that look nice.

Avoided; I have never been a big fan of really trendy suits, especially ones that don't fit your body type.

Shoes have always been a big mystery for me, I know that Brown are acceptable, but I still have a hard time with them with my navy suit. I just got a pair of Neil M shoes for cheap in black lace up, and I wear those.

I think the biggest key is to wear a suit enough, maybe at some family events or church, so that you feel comfortable and look comfortable. I think that matters much more then suit color etc. I can tell a mile away if a guy only wears a suit once a year. Now you can be comfortable and only wear it once in while, but still feel comfortable.

Marty

To me a suit often seems like the wearer didn't want to think about what he should wear, so he just put on a suit. Sports-jacket and trousers looks just as smart, but more of an individual choice. I don't get how being tall makes a suit look better. It either fits or it doesn't.

The best piece of advice ever given to me about suit color was from my grandfather.

It went something like this:
"If you want to look like $#!t, wear a brown suit."
Gustav Ziel

Half the guys in the 30s and 40s wore brown suits, so maybe he just had a bad experience.