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Thread: finish (waterproof) for a wooden handle

  1. #1
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    Question finish (waterproof) for a wooden handle

    i'm just messing around with something here and have a handle out of maple that is drilled, sanded and ready for waterproofing. i think i read something here about a wax technique. i want to keep the natural colour as much as possible. thanks!


    v.

  2. #2
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    I don't think you are going to get water PROOF wood with a wax technique, unfortunately. PROOF is going to require a marine-grade urethane or a 2-part epoxy type of finish. Those would be totally impervious to water. I think tongue oil might also be an option for long-term water resistance, if I remember right - certainly enough for shaving needs.

    The problem with any wax technique is that hot water will soften, and soaps/detergents (I know you are a real soap person, so detergents aren't a factor for you) will slowly "clean" the wax from the surface.

    I'm sure a wax, especially if applied to nice warm wood could soak into the top layer of wood giving a decent enough seal, as long as it were re-applied occasionally, however in the inside of the brush, where you are mounting the knot, and where you aren't going to be have access to re-apply the wax, I'd recommend going with the idea of a thin layer of epoxy or urethane finish.
    Brian - I think it would be totally inappropriate for me to even contemplate what I am thinking about.

  3. #3
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    thanks for the advice. i'll probably just do urethane.

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    The oil I am using for my bamboo would work. It dries solid and hard and with the dry time (depending on the porous nature of your wood) I think it soaks into the wood itself. It is called Tung Oil and it is probably best to use 100% pure tung oil. The 100% pure stuff has a fairly short shelf life and it is probably best if you order it online as the stuff they carry at most hardware stores (at least in the states) is either mixed with chemicals or has past it's shelf life heh.

  5. #5
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    CA glue works great but I think you would have to use it while its on a lathe
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  6. #6
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    Smile model 1

    here is the brush in question (knot is not glued in yet). i was planning something more elaborate, but i liked the simple look of this and it matched my McD soap very well that i'll save the fancy stuff for version 2.










    the top:




    the bottom:






    cheers,
    v.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Angry__Panda View Post
    The oil I am using for my bamboo would work.

    i bought some bamboo down in chinatown a few days ago. that may be the next project.


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  8. #8
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    Simple..... and it looks great.
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    CA glue - applied with a Q-Tip. One swipe, turn, swipe, turn, etc until the entire body is coated. If you want to do a second coat, do so after the first coat is dry. Then sand & micromesh on a lathe, hit it with some plastic polish and WOW ~ bullet proof! I do pen finishes this way ~ super high gloss finish
    I've named her Inga

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    Beautiful handle.
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  11. #11
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    A few coats of Teak oil would be nice. Urethane will feel "plasticy" in my opinion.

    Very handsome handle.
    -Ray
    Some may never live, but the crazy never die. -HST
    BOTOC Power!

  12. #12
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    if only i had a lathe ;-) part of what was cool about this project is that it simply required a saw, a hand drill (with forstner bit) and steady hand.

    i will look into the teak oil. thanks again for all the advice.


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    Last edited by noctilux; 10-30-2011 at 09:16 PM.

  13. #13
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    A pint of Daly's Seafin teak oil should set you back about 7-10 bucks.

    A few coats until the wood won't soak up any more and hit it with some 400 grit.
    -Ray
    Some may never live, but the crazy never die. -HST
    BOTOC Power!

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