Knife sharpening service?

So I was cutting open a few boxes at work today with my month old Skeletool CX (154CM plain edge.) Turns out one of the boxes had some really thick staples hidden under the tape...

The blade quickly lost the almost razor-like scary edge... It's not breadknifed, but it annoys me. To top it off you can see the edge flatten at the point where it started making contact.

It's a really nice tool and I don't think I'd try to fix this myself; If it was some cheapo Jaguar blade I'd try for giggles...

Any recommended honemeisters for knife sharpening?

Thanks!

Try steeling it. Sharpening it is removing metal until the edge is uniform, steeling it is making the metal that is there lay flat. You may have damaged it beyond the point where it will help and it will have to be sharpened. But, you can try.

I am trying to image what the blade looks like, but can't can you post a pic? I, because of health reasons do not hunt anymore, but still have various stones that I used to sharpen my skinning, and field knives. There is a solution to your problem. It's just a matter which solution applies to your situation. It sounds like steel needs to be removed via. a soft Arkansas whet stone. Followed by a low angled edge applied by a hard black surgical whet stone, and finally the burr removed by a sharpening steel.

Here are the stones, and the steel that I have been using since the early 70's. My sons are avid shooters, and hunters, and guess who sharpen their knives? I guess the points I am trying to make are twofold. The first being do not sell yourself short, I'm sure you could with a little patience, and practice fix this problem yourself. Although I would not practice on that blade, you will gain a wealth of knowledge, and take pride in the fact that you corrected the problem. Two being that if you purchase quality item's, and what's more if you take care of them, they will last you a lifetime, and than be passed on to last another lifetime.

Honing is definitely a skill I have yet to master. Couldn't even touch up my straights with a Swaty .

It's hard to take a good picture of it, let alone with a cellphone...





Probably something most people would ignore, but it annoys me because I've only had it for a short while.

(Unrelated, I'm amazed at how uneven the stock bevel is on one side...)

Synack said:

Honing is definitely a skill I have yet to master. Couldn't even touch up my straights with a Swaty .

It's hard to take a good picture of it, let alone with a cellphone...

Probably something most people would ignore, but it annoys me because I've only had it for a short while.

(Unrelated, I'm amazed at how uneven the stock bevel is on one side...)

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This is something you could remedy yourself.You would have to remove steel the whole length of the balde though. Otherwise you would have a concave blade, or if you prefer an uneven blade, that spot being lower than the rest of the blade. If that does not bother you that is what I would do. If you want to do it right though it would take some time to do the whole blade and follow the current bevel of the blade. I am as you are this would also bother me too. Knives are working tools, and should be treated as such. Sounds like a good project, when you have some free time. Good luck either way

This would be a fairly easy fix with a Lansky deluxe sharpening system. Get the one with 5 stones, extra course through extra fine. They run about $30 on the bay and are easy to use and come with clear instructions. I am sharpening challenged but I can get a knife shaving arm hair pretty quick with my Lansky. The extra course and course stones will take that flat spot out for you, then the other 3 stones will bring it back to hair-popping sharp, plus it sets the angle for you.

+1 for the Lansky set up. I just used mine the other day to put an edge on a rather blunt yet very hard steel fixed blade knife (a Swamp Rat Rodent Solution). I was able to take it from spoon sharp to razor sharp. After a follow up with a bit of stropping on a chunk of leather the blade actually shaved off some arm hairs with no resistance.

154CM is an awesome blade steel, but it looks like this knife has a rather poorly ground bevel & a way to obtuse angle.
SO the steel can't really do it self justice.

I free-hand all my sharpening on the same stones I use for my razors.
It's not that hard to learn if you're willing to put your mind into it.
154CM has a rather high abrasion resistance, so natural slower stones like Arkies will take an considerable amount of time fixing up that edge.
Good luck!

honed said:

154CM is an awesome blade steel, but it looks like this knife has a rather poorly ground bevel & a way to obtuse angle.
SO the steel can't really do it self justice.

I free-hand all my sharpening on the same stones I use for my razors.
It's not that hard to learn if you're willing to put your mind into it.
154CM has a rather high abrasion resistance, so natural slower stones like Arkies will take an considerable amount of time fixing up that edge.
Good luck!

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You are right. This is a factory balde which is being produced by the thousands. It was run through a double grinder, and not even a fine one at that. To be perfectly frank I wound grind this blade with a fine grinder to remove enough metal to even out the blade, and not be concerned about what might happen to the temper of the steel. Sharpen on a stone, call it a day, and move on.

Based on the photos, I would re-set the edge with a file, smooth it with a whetstone, refine it with a couple of oil stones and/or a ceramic and finish with a Swaty or equivalent and a strop.

Of course, I should have added what I would have done.
Both above gents have fine suggestions.

I'd probably take it to the beltsander 80 /320 belts, onto a Chosera 1K & then work my way up.
Aim at about 15 degrees or slightly lower. The steel can take it no doubt.
I have a kitchen knife, 240 mm gyuto model (Richmond Addict) in 154CM that is 10 degrees, with no problems at all.

If it's heat treated properly, you could go up to 10K or higher if you want to with 154CM.
Nice to have a portable scalpel in your pocket

honed said:

Of course, I should have added what I would have done.
Both above gents have fine suggestions.

I'd probably take it to the beltsander 80 /320 belts, onto a Chosera 1K & then work my way up.
Aim at about 15 degrees or slightly lower. The steel can take it no doubt.
I have a kitchen knife, 240 mm gyuto model (Richmond Addict) in 154CM that is 10 degrees, with no problems at all.

If it's heat treated properly, you could go up to 10K or higher if you want to with 154CM.
Nice to have a portable scalpel in your pocket

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And the OP will be back in business with his box cutter?

Alacrity59 said:

And the OP will be back in business with his box cutter?

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Indeed, very neatly opened boxes in the future I predict for this one

And the OP will be back in business with his box cutter?

Indeed, very neatly opened boxes in the future I predict for this one

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I work in IT, so really the most intense situation my knives usually see is fiber reinforced box tape .

Thanks everyone for the suggestions -- I've hopefully got someone local lined up. I'd like to see the process.

I would take to a local knife store and have them re-profile it. I love the Spyderco Sharpmaker for a hair-popping edge. I wouldn't use it to fix a damaged edge though.

I've got a problem with my SAK Soldier model. Been using a kitchen steel on it and it just will not get sharp. I've done maybe 1,000 reps on this thing over the last few weeks and it's still blunt. It can get very sharp, using a Wenger diamond-carbide sharpening tool it was scary sharp, but now it's a dud and the wenger is at home. Does this mean I need to get a stone on it?

scottish steve said:

I've got a problem with my SAK Soldier model. Been using a kitchen steel on it and it just will not get sharp. I've done maybe 1,000 reps on this thing over the last few weeks and it's still blunt. It can get very sharp, using a Wenger diamond-carbide sharpening tool it was scary sharp, but now it's a dud and the wenger is at home. Does this mean I need to get a stone on it?

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Yes. A kitchen steel will not sharpen at all, it will only true or straiten an edge that has rolled over. In order to sharpen material must be removed and for that you need an abrasive, such as a stone.

Synack said:

Any recommended honemeisters for knife sharpening?

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Synack:
How about 'John's Cutlery' (47506 Jefferson Ave , Chesterfield , MI 48047 - [586] 949-6744),...which is located in your town?

"John's Cutlery provides sharpening of knives and also scissors and lawnmower blades. If it has blades, chances are this location can sharpen it. It also sells knives and block cutlery sets. There is a selection at the store and there are also catalogs to order from. The two main brands they sell are Forschner, a high-end Swiss brand and Dexter Russell from the USA".

"Hours: Mon - Fri, 8:30am - 5pm; Sat, Sun, closed
Handicap Accessible: This business is located at ground level.
Payments accepted: American Express, Cash, Discover, MasterCard, Visa
Products: knife and blade sharpening, knives for sale
Services: Repair
Return policy: inquire for the item you are purchasing
ATM: No
Public restrooms: Yes
Parking: Free lot"

http://newbaltimore.patch.com/listings/johns-cutlery

I]"[It is the] innovator, experimenter, [and] missionary in bringing the gospel of good cooking to the home table." Craig Claiborne [/I]

jwhite said:

Yes. A kitchen steel will not sharpen at all, it will only true or straiten an edge that has rolled over. In order to sharpen material must be removed and for that you need an abrasive, such as a stone.

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Thanks for the info. So another Suzhou quest looms, trying to find a decent stone