There comes a time in every straight addict's life... (need some restore help)

Krodor · Jun 12, 2011

OK, I got me a whipped-dog special for birthday back a few months ago, liked it, then ended up finding three more antique store jobbies (a puma 91, a WB special, and a "pride of the west" by some Isaac something hardware store). Anyway, I've got them all to working order by getting any rust removed and having them honed, but have always wondered how the pivot hole looked on these things...no visible rust, but what about that hole?

Oh dear, that means unpinning. To do that, I've ordered myself some 1/16th inch brass rod and have located a hardware store with some size 0 SS washers and got me a ball peen hammer.

So, taking a deep breath, a file, a small bit, some pliers, and a drill press, the pins (bent!) came out of my Whipped-dog special (a Grah-Plumacher Black Diamond). No rust, but might as well tidy things up while I've got it apart, since the inside of the scales are all discolored from older rust and time.

So, questions.

These are bone scales. After sanding away the ook in-between the scales, and after sanding away some of the other crud on the outsides, then what? What's a nice finish for bone? I can't find mention of polyurethane in these forums, but I've got that, laquer, shellac, and some other things I've seen. Somehow I need to close up the pores in this bone and get it ready to get wet again. What's the appropriate finish?
it looked like the wedge was glued-in. is that right? With only one pin , how do you get the shape so exact to the scales? Do you first glue/pin/fasten that end, round it off with some sandpaper, finish it (above), then pin the pivot-end with the blade?
I've been sanding with 220 grit, I'll work on upping it...
Black Diamond...was kinda blackish blade, but all kinds of what looked like water spots on it. I figured I'd just go against the name, take off the blackish part and just polish/sand the bujeebers out of it, coating it in vaseline until I can get time for the next steps

Any help? I'm 95% certain I can do this with some time and effort, I just wanna get this first tear-down/rebuild under my belt to get the confidence up. I feel like if I can get this down to a science, I can help save some of these antique junkers at flea markets / antique stores from ending up in the trash-heap of time and get them shaving again.

Thanks!
Jeff

eastomjac · Jun 12, 2011

you mite try waxing the bone im talking a high quality furniture wax or bees wax heat by rubbing the wax in coat after coat untill your happy with the finish,of course you will have to reapply periodacly,but i like the look,as for the wedge its assembled to the scale and then sanded to aquire the same form on all three pieces,and now the spots;buff till your arm wears out then buff till you like what you see,you have to decide what you want to achive;new look or usable for you and how much time/effort is it worth to you,im 100%sure you can do this if your willing to try,its gonna cost some elbow grease,but it will be a sweet adventure.:}

Old Man Army · Jun 12, 2011

I'll be interested to see what suggestions you get, I have a partial restore that just needs to be unpinned and cleaned up.

Legion · Jun 12, 2011

Yes, I make the wedge over sized, then fix it into place with micro screws, then sand it flush with the scales.

Renaissance wax would be good for bone.

Krodor · Jun 14, 2011

BTW, in case anyone else was in the bind I was, I got
- furniture wax (minwax brand) today from a Home Depot,
- ordered some 1/16" brass rod the other day from Amazon,
- Small Parts carries size #0 brass washers in bags of 25,
- a multi-pack of wet/dry sandpaper from grits of 220 all the way to 2500 from a local autoparts store
- and a ball-pein (peen?) hammer (v. light jewelery maker one) from a local Michaels arts/crafts.

That, and some elbow grease that I'll find around here somewhere might just make this a long term hobby. Though it might take a "long term" to complete the first go at this. oh well, it will be fun! I'll post some pix along the way.

Jeff

Krodor · Jun 18, 2011

Ah what the hey, lets just make this a running look at this thing.

while waiting for the washers, I've made some progress. here's the thing taken apart

and here you can see the bent pins and some of the waterspots and how "black" the blade is:

and a little catch of the scales and another look at the blade before working on it:

Krodor · Jun 18, 2011

and then after scrubbing a bit with the 220 I get the following. NOTE: Yes, this is my first whack at this restoration thang. For this first go-round, I'm going at it like the folks who built the transcontinental railroad: just get 'er done so it passes spec, learn something from it, then do better later (here, that would be doing better on the second, for the railroad, it was cheaper to get the money now, and fix it later...oh you know what I mean). Point is, i know it won't be perfect, I'm not expecting it to be, so defects along the way are fine. I just wanna say I've done it so I can work on getting better later.

Krodor · Jun 18, 2011

going through the motions of every grit I could find from 220 to 2500, then Flitz, I got to here (pardon the yellow...cheap camera, no flash, whine whine)

you can see the really weird patch near the spine-edge of the point...it looks like goo of some kind, but its actually part of the metal somehow. Oh well, it shaved well before, it'll shave well again.

you'll just have to trust me, the whole thing is the silvery color of the tang on the right:

I coated it up in vaseline, wrapped it loosely in toilet paper, stuck it in a toothbrush tube, and moved on to the scales.

Mr. Imperial · Jun 18, 2011

Looks like you're doing a good job to me. I'll be starting my first blade restores tomorrow, though, so don't take my word for it!

At any rate, I love these progressive restore threads. They keep me busy for hours.

onimaru55 · Jun 18, 2011

Krodor said:
So, questions.

These are bone scales. After sanding away the ook in-between the scales, and after sanding away some of the other crud on the outsides, then what? What's a nice finish for bone? I can't find mention of polyurethane in these forums, but I've got that, laquer, shellac, and some other things I've seen. Somehow I need to close up the pores in this bone and get it ready to get wet again. What's the appropriate finish?

Hi,. Bone & horn need no finishes & pores in bone are normal. You can condition both by coating in Neatsfoot oil & wrapping them up in a plastic bag for a week or 2.
Personally I avoid getting scales of any kind wet as it will promote blade rust if not dried properly.

FireMedic4Christ · Jun 18, 2011

Krodor said:
. . .

These are bone scales. After sanding away the ook in-between the scales, and after sanding away some of the other crud on the outsides, then what? What's a nice finish for bone? I can't find mention of polyurethane in these forums, but I've got that, laquer, shellac, and some other things I've seen. Somehow I need to close up the pores in this bone and get it ready to get wet again. What's the appropriate finish?
. . .
Jeff

Newby here, but I do make lots of pen / pencil sets of antler and bone. I prefer to finish with a thin viscosity cyanocrylic glue (super glue). It can be found online or at a woodworkers store such as Rockler or Woodcraft. I then work thru the grits of sandpaper to 600. After sandpaper, I continue with MicroMesh upto 12000 for a great shiny finish. If you prefer more of a satin just stop where it looks good to you.

Hope this helps,
Brian

Gamma · Jun 18, 2011

Nice - Those scales look like they're going to come out really fine. Good luck with the project.

Krodor · Jun 20, 2011

Things I learned today:

I don't think I've ever seen a perfectly clear set of acrylic scales.
perfectly clear acrylic is *cheap* at Lowe's (like 2 bucks for a 1 ft square).
Lowe's acrylic is *just* the right thickness to triple-stack and be narrower than my Black Diamond's spine.
super glue dries clear
Acrylic polishes to a high shine.
and....Acrylic cracks where you don't want it to if you go at it with a jigsaw or hacksaw.

putting all this together, it looks like it is plenty possible to build myself some fairly clear scales, only putting in a pivot pin. True, the jillionth coating of wax is drying on my bone scales, but I think I might just try having some fun making some see-through scales. If that doesn't work, the bone ones that the Black Diamond was wearing at the start will be for backup, all beautied up, waiting in the wings.

Can anyone link me to a photo or two of some finished, totally-clear acrylic scales, or am I nuts thinking that this is possible? If it works, it would be neat to get some acrylic in the colors of my alma mater(s) and do 'em up. Dang, the options are endless...this is too much fun. :w00t:

Thanks,
Jeff

Legion · Jun 20, 2011

I've seen lots of clear scales made. It's totally possible.

I would probably avoid using any glue at all. While you say it dries clear, in practice I think you will see it. To polish the edges take it up to 1500 wet/dry paper and then buff it with Brasso.

Krodor · Jun 21, 2011

I reminded myself that I did all this just to see if there were issues with rust in the pivot, and that I wanted to just bang this back together to say that I can do it and learn something from it. So, I did! I learned lots today:

holy cow, does super glue dry fast.
the How-to's to assemble a razor are just what I was looking for.
peening is fun, but don't have too much rod to peen or things get blown out
1/16" rods don't fit in 1/16" holes
yeah, my re-used wedge ain't in right, but tough cookies. I'm not going to sand down that wedge-end of my bone scales this time.

regardless, it's done, and it feels so cool!

my first peen...isn't it so cute:

and the flip-side (the dark "halo" around the pin is schmutz from the hammer...it wiped of after)

big picture:

and all reassembled:

it's in there nice and tight, and heck...it's even centered! it didn't come that way, so that alone is an improvement.

So there you have it. I've gone from hating cartridge shaving, to getting good at DE shaving, to straight shaving, to actually dismantling, overhauling, and reassembling my own straight razor in a little over a year. THANKS B&B CREW!

Now I've got all the confidence I need to restore some oldies and make some really cool Christmas gifts, I just need to find some folks to give them to! :001_tt2:

Send it out at some point to get it honed-up and I'm all set....

BTW, here's what it looked like in it's pre-purchased state...it is my very first straight razor, so I'm glad it turned out nicely.

LarryAndro · Jun 22, 2011

I've never gotten into restoration of straight razors. Not for want of want though. Good, very good job!

Gamma · Jun 22, 2011

Betcha it felt good to shave with it after you did all that work - right?
Nice - very nice job. You should be proud.. kudos!
I use masking tape around the washer when I peen/pin - keeps the schmutz off the scales!

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There comes a time in every straight addict's life... (need some restore help)

Krodor

eastomjac

Old Man Army

Legion

Krodor

Krodor

Krodor

Krodor

Mr. Imperial

onimaru55

FireMedic4Christ

Gamma

Krodor

Legion

Krodor

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