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What to look for in a shampoo bar?

I'm considering trying out some locally made shampoo bars, but yeesh! How do I tell the difference between a product that has legitimate and beneficial exclusions to their ingredients list, and ones that are caught up in (I'm so sorry if I offend with this) ridiculous hippy nonsense and are making exclusions/substitutions at the expense of a quality bar?

Like trying to find some craft shaving soaps, all of which proudly tell me how they are "palm oil free" and use olive oil instead. :001_rolle

What are some "must have" ingredients and what are sub par hippy/new age quackery substitutes to avoid.
 
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