Is more aggressive more advanced?

[BlackBard]

A comment from martiniduck in another thread, relating to aggressive vs mild razors, brought to mind a theme that runs through many similar discussions - the notion of “graduating” from mild to aggressive razors or blades. You can see his post here.

I have always believed that whatever works best is the right choice, but the notion persists that the hierarchy of aggressiveness suggests a hierarchy of expertise. What do you think?

[wulfgar1976]

A comment from martiniduck in another thread, relating to aggressive vs mild razors, brought to mind a theme that runs through many similar discussions - the notion of “graduating” from mild to aggressive razors or blades. You can see his post here.

I have always believed that whatever works best is the right choice, but the notion persists that the hierarchy of aggressiveness suggests a hierarchy of expertise. What do you think?

Speaking for myself, I graduated by moving away from aggressive razors to using milder razors with better technique. I get the closest results with open comb razors (which I have never considered to be aggressive) but I enjoy using a Super Speed or an early Tech too.

[jeffpofutah]

I'm still somewhat of a newby to DE shaving - YMMV, etc.

I have a variety of razors - old type, The New, several slims, a Merkur HD - and a variety of blades - Feathers, Astra, 7 O'Clocks, Wilks, Sharks, etc....

I've decided that the BBS shave isn't the true goal for me. In fact, BBS might be myth - see Topgumby's reply here: Just what is BBS

Yes, I love it when I get a really close shave but I love it more when I get a really comfortable shave without nicks and weepers. I am more for comfortable first then close second. I'm happy with a CCS or better yet a DFS but will take a SAS that is cool and comfortable than a BBS with razor burn.

All this said, I use my Slims on a milder setting - 3 - and get a CCS or DFS that is very comfortable. My open comb The New is much more aggressive. I can get a very close shave with it but I really have to watch my technique A LOT or I get nicks, weepers and razor burn.

To me, aggressive isn't more advanced per se. It depends on whether CLOSE is your goal or COMFORT is what you are striving for.

[Roobaix]

I to believe whatever works best is what a person should use.

I have found that over the years of my shaving evolving that I have gravitated towards what a lot of people would call an aggressive razor and blade combo. A slant and a feather. I don't claim to have an advanced expert technique, but I find that it gives me a DFS shave with the least amount of irritation.

I do still rotate with other combos, a Slim, Aristocrat, Fatboy, Mergress, Vision...all with different blades, but I like the slant/feather the best right now. That might all change in a few months though...

[MarkStar]

A comment from martiniduck in another thread, relating to aggressive vs mild razors, brought to mind a theme that runs through many similar discussions - the notion of “graduating” from mild to aggressive razors or blades. You can see his post here.

I have always believed that whatever works best is the right choice, but the notion persists that the hierarchy of aggressiveness suggests a hierarchy of expertise. What do you think?

Everybody knows that if you're not using a slant with a Feather then you're just a shaving poseur... Sheesh...

[michiganlover]

In terms of the whole graduating to the more aggressive razors, perhaps it is helpful to realize that for much of the existence of the Gillette DE razor an adjustable didn't exist. I imagine the men of yesteryear were getting along just fine with their Superspeeds, News, Techs, and the like none of which adjusted.

In my opinion one of the best shaving DE razors (the Feather All Stainless) is also said to be one of the mildest; but I still get a great shave in two passes (WTG, and XTG).

So aggressive razors, yeah you can keep them.

[takeshi]

Preference, as are most things around here. That's why "YMMV" is so ubiquitous.

[The Chandos]

I haven't seen any of the threads linked above nor do I intend to (to save any bias on my following comment, I'll go look at them after this post) but my understanding of "aggressive" was best applied to the type of growth one had. For example, tough beards might require a more aggressive razor. I also had the impression that less aggressive razors were simply more forgiving for those of us with a lack of technique. Thus, with better technique, you could actually graduate to a more aggressive razor and not butcher your face and neck but for those with certain beard types, a more aggressive razor might actually help attain that technique. (My impressions only, certainly not the law, but look forward to other comments.)

[ackvil]

I have always believed that whatever works best is the right choice, but the notion persists that the hierarchy of aggressiveness suggests a hierarchy of expertise. What do you think?

I think you have nailed it.

When I returned to shaving some time ago (see here) I thought the way to go was to dial up my FB or Slim to the highest setting and go for it. Of course, irritation followed.

For me the object is to get the closest, smoothest BBS shave possible. If I can do this with a mild razor, great. So my theory is to use the mildest razor possible and still get a BBS shave.

I would rather do my usual four pass shave with a less aggressive razor and get a BBS shave with no irritation, nicks, or cuts than do a two pass shave with an aggressive razor and have irritation, nicks, or cuts.

I have gotten a number of PMs from new DE shavers who tell me that when they have a problem with irritation when they use an adjustable razor because they say they have sensitive skin. When I tell them to dial down to the lowest setting and work their way up GRADUALLY many say their problem disappears.

[franz]

Seems to me that from a functional standpoint you have more control over the blade angle when there's greater blade exposure. That doesn't necessarily translate to a better shave even if your technique is excellent. That's YMMV territory.

I think of straights (note: I am not a straights user) as having infinite "blade exposure" and hence offering the greatest control over what the cutting edge is doing.

Jim is spot on. Nobody should be cranking up their Slim or Fatboy to 9 as a new wetshaver simply because that's what you're "supposed to do" or because it's macho. I've been DE shaving for a year (a blink of the eye compared to some of you ) and I've settled on a middle of the road blade exposure as the ideal for my skin type and beard.

[Go West Young Man]

A milder razor is safer to learn on, but that doesn't mean you HAVE to move on to something else.

[Den]

I started off with mild DEs like the Tech and SS, then moved on to more aggressive DEs, and quickly came back to mild. Good prep, technique and blade can make a mild razor shine.

[inspiringK]

A milder razor is safer to learn on, but that doesn't mean you HAVE to move on to something else.

When you first start out, using an aggressive razor may leave your face in shreds

Newer users get less nicks and irritation from mild razors, so benefit most from using these to experiment with.
More experienced users are able to get nick-free shaves from both aggressive and mild razors - then they can decide which works best for them.

[Alraz]

Work on your technique and you will be in a better position to choose between mild or aggressive. In the meantime, you may want to stay mild. It is all about technique.

Al raz.

[Sir Walter of Mount Royal]

Aggressive razors scare beginners. They shave with apprehension. And the razor gets blamed for all mishaps.

With experience, the shaver knows better which type of tool suits his natural tendencies. Some turn to more aggressive razors, others chose milder ones.

[Pbalkan]

I was the one who started that other post.

The post originally asked what "aggressive" really means to shaving?

I would imagine that this debate has been going on since the very introduction of the safety razor which limited the angle and exposure of the blade.... and presumably the damage that it could do.

Just because a straight-razor user CAN sever his jugular doesn't mean he HAS to, or wants to....

My experience was 4 days shaving with a Silver flair-tip that I grabbed before a trip. I was disappointed and annoyed that I wasn't able to get the shave I wanted without holding it at an unnatural angle and/or applying pressure. I paid the price for both.

When I returned home, I gave the Slant a try and I've been pleased that the razor allows me some control over angle and that my skills have advanced to the stage where I can do it. I must admit that I'm a bit more proficient at controlling the blade angle than I would be at applying pressure... so it's a good "next step" for a newbie transitioning to intermediate.

I may very well reach a point where a particular razor just suits me and I am satisfied with a great shave with no surprises, either way.

But right now, quite honestly, I'm pleased with my progress and interested in what might lie ahead. There's SE and straights as well (I even bought a Rolls Razor) and I see no reason why I shouldn't try them all and see how far I can develop my shaving skills.

[Omaha-BeenGlockin]

I was getting more irritation from trying to make a mild razor "work" than just doing a couple passes with an aggressive razor---I quickly moved on from mild shavers because they just don't work for me.

[DVM2012]

To put it simply, I think improved technique allows a user to use a more aggressive razor safely. An aggressive razor is not necessarily going to lead to a better shave (i.e. closer and irritation-free), but improved technique will likely prevent you from doing real damage to your face. All I can say is: YMMV. Personally, I love a mild razor (Tech, Slim at 2) for everyday shaving and an aggressive razor (Futur at 3, Slim at 8 or 9) for times when I may have a couple days' extra growth.

[Sir Walter of Mount Royal]

i was getting more irritation from trying to make a mild razor "work" than just doing a couple passes with an aggressive razor

+1

[rupertbear]

I have always believed that whatever works best is the right choice, but the notion persists that the hierarchy of aggressiveness suggests a hierarchy of expertise. What do you think?

I have a tough beard but an onion-skin neck. I can shave with with either a mild or an aggressive razor and get a good shave, but if I want a comfortable shave, I know I better use a mild razor. My normal set-up is with adjustables set on 3 or my flare-tip. There are so many different razors because everybody's skin is different.