It appears that there is a broken image attachment on post #5 fidjit. Would it be possible to re-attach that one? Cheers! 
Finally.....another butterscotch local find (Restoration Tutorial)
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It appears that there is a broken image attachment on post #5 fidjit. Would it be possible to re-attach that one? Cheers!
Sorry, can't reedit the original post but here it is here.
Basically measuring the diameter of the knot hole
Knot hole 18mm
Ian,
Just discovered this thread. It was of particular interest since I've got three brush handles upstairs from which I've removed the knots and they're waiting for the knots from TGN to arrive.
What surprises me is how you're able to remove the knots without more aggressive tools. Granted, the brushes I had were very old and that may have had something to do with it, but the combo hair/epoxy in the center was practically like cement. It never occurred to me that removing them any other way would be possible. I now feel like less of a man and am going to attempt to do it your way.
Also, thanks so much for that excellent explanation of loft choice and the diagrams and, most particularly, the way you thought about what you were going to do. I've read many, many threads on brush restoring and this was the first one that explained it simply enough and with pictures such that I could understand it. Thank you muchly.
Just discovered this thread. It was of particular interest since I've got three brush handles upstairs from which I've removed the knots and they're waiting for the knots from TGN to arrive.
What surprises me is how you're able to remove the knots without more aggressive tools. Granted, the brushes I had were very old and that may have had something to do with it, but the combo hair/epoxy in the center was practically like cement. It never occurred to me that removing them any other way would be possible. I now feel like less of a man and am going to attempt to do it your way.
Also, thanks so much for that excellent explanation of loft choice and the diagrams and, most particularly, the way you thought about what you were going to do. I've read many, many threads on brush restoring and this was the first one that explained it simply enough and with pictures such that I could understand it. Thank you muchly.
Hokay
Here we go......
1. Cut down knot with scissors as close as possible
2. Using my knife, dig into the middle and then just use a circular/twisting motion to loosen up the bristles.....
3. After twisting and loosening, just use pliers to grab out the left over bristles.
4. Hopefully that's enough. Sometimes I'll use an electric drill to loosen up the bristles if the glue is really hard, but normally can manually remove them all. You can also try and soften up whatever glue there is with hot water which sometime helps.
The end plan .....
5. Quick wipe with Silvo and....
Only tool used my Leatherman Skeletool, but yes, this has been an easy one !!!!
I would agree that you ran into one that the glue had broken down enough to allow for the cutting and pulling effect to work. Many times I will steam one if the handle can take that method to get the glue loose to where it is removable like that.
Great job.
Gary,
I've tried steaming three handles and it hasn't worked for me yet. Follow your instructions, I think, to the letter, but no joy. Do you have a high success rate with it? EDIT: See pic below. Success at last not 5 mins ago.
View attachment 264359 Also, does anyone here have a good idea for how to fix the handle so that it's immoveable without either scratching or cracking it? I bought a small table vise and wrap the handle in blue tape, but am afraid of tightening down to much and so there's always some movement.
thx
oake
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It really depends upon the composition of the retaining material (glue, plaster. epoxy). I seem to have the best fortune with the steam method on the modern acrylics and the ones set in rubber.
Now for the others (plastic, bakelite and those set in plaster or hard epoxy) I have gone to a fall back position. If I can't steam due to the potential of the plastic being ruined like the Ever Ready in this thread ...
http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showth...me-and-Lose-Some-Restoration-Story?highlight=
... or the hardness of the setting, then I use my Dremel with a Dremel drill bit to open a hole in the existing knot after I have cut away all the hairs. Then I go to work with this to ream out the existing knot from the inside out.
I hope you can see the teeth on this little Dremel 115. This is a high speed cutter but you will use low to medium speed to strip the knot from the inside out once the pilot hole is large enough. It takes time, but it is very, very effective. I don't need to use a vise with this method.
I hope this helps.
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It really depends upon the composition of the retaining material (glue, plaster. epoxy). I seem to have the best fortune with the steam method on the modern acrylics and the ones set in rubber.
Now for the others (plastic, bakelite and those set in plaster or hard epoxy) I have gone to a fall back position. If I can't steam due to the potential of the plastic being ruined like the Ever Ready in this thread ...
http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showth...me-and-Lose-Some-Restoration-Story?highlight=
... or the hardness of the setting, then I use my Dremel with a Dremel drill bit to open a hole in the existing knot after I have cut away all the hairs. Then I go to work with this to ream out the existing knot from the inside out.
I hope you can see the teeth on this little Dremel 115. This is a high speed cutter but you will use low to medium speed to strip the knot from the inside out once the pilot hole is large enough. It takes time, but it is very, very effective. I don't need to use a vise with this method.
I hope this helps.
Gary,
That is excellent and explains why my success has been sporadic. I also took your advice from another thread and got a forstner bit (about 19mm). Would you recomend this dremel bit over the forstner in a cordless drill? I don't have a drill press.
Thanks for posting this pic. I wanted to be sure that I am measuring the knot hole correctly. My current restore project is also an 18mm knot hole. I think I'll order a 16mm two-band from TGN just like yours and set the loft around 45mm. I'll post pics when it's done.
I spent more time than I would care to mention getting the old knot out of this handle. In my defense, I was using rudimentary tools.
I spent more time than I would care to mention getting the old knot out of this handle. In my defense, I was using rudimentary tools.
Sorry, can't reedit the original post but here it is here.
Basically measuring the diameter of the knot hole
Knot hole 18mm
Thank you for this helpful tip! I was wondering what kind of drill bit would be effective for cleaning out old bristles. For anyone else looking for this, here it is on Amazon (with Prime shipping available!)
Crap!!! Now I wanna restore a brush!!! My wife's gonna kill me... Thanks for the great info. It kills me to think that I got started in DE wet shaving to save money on cartridges. Saving all that money is costing me a fortune. Your thread will be an excellent reference for me when I find a handle. Thanks again!
What a cute brush! I am going to start restoring brushes.
Kirk
Kirk
Nice restore.
Im just beginning the DE shaving addiction. I started with a Merkur 180. I have recently picked up 2 vintage razors to try. THey are a 1954 TV special Super speed and a 1940 Ball Tech. While searching thru the endless information in here I came upon this section. Im currently Stationed in Korea and I love to work with my hands. I figure what better way to make my vintage razors is to have a vintage shave brush (or one i make in lathe on base). But I usually get things pretty easy without a whole lot of direction. However when i seen the section about Applying the expoy it does not state where to apply it to. Also if your using a cork filler how is everything epoxied in? If someone could elaborate on this, one more thing to keep be busy to pass my time. Thank you all for your wisdom that i have read already. Look forward to learning alot.
First-off, welcome to Badger & Blade! It's a pleasure having you here and we hope you enjoy your shaves.
As an active-duty member of the military, please go to this link http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php/42404-Active-Duty-members-check-in to register for your Active Duty badge (it's free!). It's our way of thanking you for your service to your country.
Regarding the epoxy, I start by cleaning out the cavity and test fitting the components (cork filler, coins, weights, etc. and the knot) to make sure that the loft (the height of the bristles exposed above the handle) is set where I want it. Once I've done that, I drip a small amount of epoxy into the cavity (usually using the same popsicle stick that I used to blend the two parts) and insert the filler material(s). I make sure everything is centered nicely and let it set for a few minutes. If there's still empty space around the fillers, I usually add extra epoxy to fill it up. Once all your fillers are securely in place, I mix up another small puddle of epoxy and drip a thin layer onto the top of the stack/shelf you've created. (Be careful when adding the epoxy...a small amount is all that's needed. You should probably wrap the outside of the brush with a layer of masking tape to prevent any from dripping or oozing onto the outside of the handle.) I then take the knot and push it into the hole, rotate it a bit to ensure that the epoxy is evenly spread across the bottom of the knot. Make sure that the knot is straight...if it's at an angle, you only have a couple of minutes to align it correctly. I then set it aside for several hours (usually overnight). The next day, remove the tape, make sure everything is secure, give the knot a good shampooing to help remove some of the stink, and start shaving.
Good luck with your projects and be sure to share a photo or two when you get something completed. And as always, feel free to stop by here with any questions.
i have a question. I just scored this on ebay for $5 plus $7 shipping. I think i did well. it has #401 in description, what does it mean?
http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Vintage-BAKELITE-Made-Right-401-PURE-BADGER-BRUSH-/00/s/MTYwMFgxMjAw/z/DVMAAOxyAs9SOJOp/$T2eC16V,!)EFIpNHw2t(BSOJOo8Elg~~60_57.JPG
http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Vintage-BAKELITE-Made-Right-401-PURE-BADGER-BRUSH-/00/s/MTYwMFgxMjAw/z/DVMAAOxyAs9SOJOp/$T2eC16V,!)EFIpNHw2t(BSOJOo8Elg~~60_57.JPG
Doesn't mean anything other than the manufacturer's model number. Nice brush...good luck with it!
Excellent tutorial.
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