Finally.....another butterscotch local find

[rebos]

It appears that there is a broken image attachment on post #5 fidjit. Would it be possible to re-attach that one? Cheers!

[fidjit]

It appears that there is a broken image attachment on post #5 fidjit. Would it be possible to re-attach that one? Cheers!

Sorry, can't reedit the original post but here it is here.

Basically measuring the diameter of the knot hole

Knot hole 18mm

[oakeshott]

Ian,
Just discovered this thread. It was of particular interest since I've got three brush handles upstairs from which I've removed the knots and they're waiting for the knots from TGN to arrive.

What surprises me is how you're able to remove the knots without more aggressive tools. Granted, the brushes I had were very old and that may have had something to do with it, but the combo hair/epoxy in the center was practically like cement. It never occurred to me that removing them any other way would be possible. I now feel like less of a man and am going to attempt to do it your way.

Also, thanks so much for that excellent explanation of loft choice and the diagrams and, most particularly, the way you thought about what you were going to do. I've read many, many threads on brush restoring and this was the first one that explained it simply enough and with pictures such that I could understand it. Thank you muchly.

[GDCarrington]

Hokay

Here we go......

1. Cut down knot with scissors as close as possible



2. Using my knife, dig into the middle and then just use a circular/twisting motion to loosen up the bristles.....


3. After twisting and loosening, just use pliers to grab out the left over bristles.


4. Hopefully that's enough. Sometimes I'll use an electric drill to loosen up the bristles if the glue is really hard, but normally can manually remove them all. You can also try and soften up whatever glue there is with hot water which sometime helps.

The end plan .....


5. Quick wipe with Silvo and....


Only tool used my Leatherman Skeletool, but yes, this has been an easy one !!!!

I would agree that you ran into one that the glue had broken down enough to allow for the cutting and pulling effect to work. Many times I will steam one if the handle can take that method to get the glue loose to where it is removable like that.

Great job.

[oakeshott]

I would agree that you ran into one that the glue had broken down enough to allow for the cutting and pulling effect to work. Many times I will steam one if the handle can take that method to get the glue loose to where it is removable like that.

Great job.

Gary,
I've tried steaming three handles and it hasn't worked for me yet. Follow your instructions, I think, to the letter, but no joy. Do you have a high success rate with it? EDIT: See pic below. Success at last not 5 mins ago.

Also, does anyone here have a good idea for how to fix the handle so that it's immoveable without either scratching or cracking it? I bought a small table vise and wrap the handle in blue tape, but am afraid of tightening down to much and so there's always some movement.
thx
oake

[GDCarrington]

Gary,
I've tried steaming three handles and it hasn't worked for me yet. Follow your instructions, I think, to the letter, but no joy. Do you have a high success rate with it? Also, does anyone here have a good idea for how to fix the handle so that it's immoveable without either scratching or cracking it? I bought a small table vise and wrap the handle in blue tape, but am afraid of tightening down to much and so there's always some movement.
thx
oake

It really depends upon the composition of the retaining material (glue, plaster. epoxy). I seem to have the best fortune with the steam method on the modern acrylics and the ones set in rubber.

Now for the others (plastic, bakelite and those set in plaster or hard epoxy) I have gone to a fall back position. If I can't steam due to the potential of the plastic being ruined like the Ever Ready in this thread ...

http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthr...ory?highlight=

... or the hardness of the setting, then I use my Dremel with a Dremel drill bit to open a hole in the existing knot after I have cut away all the hairs. Then I go to work with this to ream out the existing knot from the inside out.



I hope you can see the teeth on this little Dremel 115. This is a high speed cutter but you will use low to medium speed to strip the knot from the inside out once the pilot hole is large enough. It takes time, but it is very, very effective. I don't need to use a vise with this method.

I hope this helps.

[oakeshott]

It really depends upon the composition of the retaining material (glue, plaster. epoxy). I seem to have the best fortune with the steam method on the modern acrylics and the ones set in rubber.

Now for the others (plastic, bakelite and those set in plaster or hard epoxy) I have gone to a fall back position. If I can't steam due to the potential of the plastic being ruined like the Ever Ready in this thread ...

http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthr...ory?highlight=

... or the hardness of the setting, then I use my Dremel with a Dremel drill bit to open a hole in the existing knot after I have cut away all the hairs. Then I go to work with this to ream out the existing knot from the inside out.



I hope you can see the teeth on this little Dremel 115. This is a high speed cutter but you will use low to medium speed to strip the knot from the inside out once the pilot hole is large enough. It takes time, but it is very, very effective. I don't need to use a vise with this method.

I hope this helps.

Gary,
That is excellent and explains why my success has been sporadic. I also took your advice from another thread and got a forstner bit (about 19mm). Would you recomend this dremel bit over the forstner in a cordless drill? I don't have a drill press.

[rebos]

Thanks for posting this pic. I wanted to be sure that I am measuring the knot hole correctly. My current restore project is also an 18mm knot hole. I think I'll order a 16mm two-band from TGN just like yours and set the loft around 45mm. I'll post pics when it's done.

I spent more time than I would care to mention getting the old knot out of this handle. In my defense, I was using rudimentary tools.

Sorry, can't reedit the original post but here it is here.

Basically measuring the diameter of the knot hole

Knot hole 18mm

[rebos]

if you really want some depth you need to go the knot size below.

I'm sure glad I read this before I go ahead and order my knot.

[klundtasaur]

I hope you can see the teeth on this little Dremel 115. This is a high speed cutter but you will use low to medium speed to strip the knot from the inside out once the pilot hole is large enough. It takes time, but it is very, very effective. I don't need to use a vise with this method.I hope this helps.

Thank you for this helpful tip! I was wondering what kind of drill bit would be effective for cleaning out old bristles. For anyone else looking for this, here it is on Amazon (with Prime shipping available!)

[Moondoggie]

Crap!!! Now I wanna restore a brush!!! My wife's gonna kill me... Thanks for the great info. It kills me to think that I got started in DE wet shaving to save money on cartridges. Saving all that money is costing me a fortune. Your thread will be an excellent reference for me when I find a handle. Thanks again!

[BBS Kirk]

What a cute brush! I am going to start restoring brushes.

Kirk