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storage oil ?

I have been all over this website looking for an answer to my question before I decided to ask in this forum.. I can't seem to find the information I'm looking for.. I have a old Boker 101. Made before WW2. I'm guessing some were around 1920. It is brand new still in the orginal celaphone [Lord I hope I spelled that right] The box, the paper work, and even the seal is still there. It has never been honed. The blade is as shiney as crome. But I've notice one small discolored spot on the end of the blade. As much as I hate to I'm going to have to take it out of it's wrapper an put some kind of oil on it. I don't want to use a oil that is runey, the box is as good as new and I don't want to ruin it with oil residue, but if I don't do something I'm affraid it will turn to rust. So if I could get some ideas on what to use I would appreciate it. Also since I'm going to have to take it out of the wrapper I will take a lot of pictures and post them. Thanks for your help.............
 
What I use to oil blades for shipping and stuff is just a thin coating of baby oil. (mineral oil with fragrance). There are lots of posts around here of what other people use but that works for me. It's on the runny side I guess but you don't need much of it.
 
I use sterol and it seems to protect. If you want to use the ultimate get some AG Russell no rust. It's a silicon based preservative designed for guns and knives. It's very thick and is great for long term storage.
 
I have been using a mixture of 91% alc with olive oil and veg oil. Then I put it in a drawer that has a metal rectangular container with rechargeable silica beads in it. But this is not runny but not thick. Others use.petroleum jelly or castor oil as they are thicker
 
B

bluefoxicy

I've had good results with Tuf-Glide, or with samurai sword oil (99% mineral + 1% clove) but you'll muck up the box with that stuff.
 
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