Ever Ready and Nevershed: A Newbie Resto

Just got these fresh from the mailman.



Nevershed on the left (which is shedding quite nicely) and an Ever Ready 75 K on the right.

I'm going to clip them shortly, but I first wanted to ask if anyone can tell me how to measure for a correctly sized knot. Is this done prior to clipping the strands or after? And how accurate does it have to be? I have an inside micrometer if it should get down to that level of detail.

These will be my very first restorations, so any advice from experienced folk will be greatly appreciated.

Scott

I mike the hole after removing the old knot and cleaning the hole. Larger knots have more spine, which i like, so i tend to enlarge the hole. Most old brushes have plenty of room in the ferrule to enlarge the hole. Measurement is not critical as there is a load of variation in the knots, but you will want to buy a knot smaller than the diameter of the hole if you want to set the knot deeper than the plug. This is because the knot flairs out above the glue plug.

First, we begin the brush spa day with a wrap in our finest tape.



Next, just a trim off the top. I figured the clippers would provide a flatter top to work with. They didn't.



Then, tragedy struck. I was putting the Ever Ready down and missed my mark. I watched it careen through the air in slow motion, my face a rictus of shock and fear. A single bounce upon the tile bathroom floor echoed like a gunshot.



And now, I am sad. (1:28 into the movie, and with shaving!)
[YOUTUBE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-_aj4X04EBU[/YOUTUBE]

Scott

ZombieDad said:

Then, tragedy struck. I was putting the Ever Ready down and missed my mark. I watched it careen through the air in slow motion, my face a rictus of shock and fear. A single bounce upon the tile bathroom floor echoed like a gunshot.

And now, I am sad.

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Carefully superglue the chip back on, do a little wet sanding and polish. It should be fine. It's a brush worth fixing.

Note for future - use a pan or tub to hold objects that may roll away or fall off.

That's a tough break. Hoping you will be able to fix it.

That stinks. Looking forward to the fixed and finished products.

Klopstick said:

Carefully superglue the chip back on, do a little wet sanding and polish. It should be fine. It's a brush worth fixing.

Note for future - use a pan or tub to hold objects that may roll away or fall off.

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Any chance there's a link to an online tutorial? Sounds easy enough, I've just never done much wet sanding.

Scott

Wow, that's rough. I am curious to see how the repair comes out since I have been close a couple of times, but caught the brush, mid flight.

Hard luck mate.

ZombieDad said:

Any chance there's a link to an online tutorial? Sounds easy enough, I've just never done much wet sanding.

Scott

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Just use special waterproof sandpaper. You can get it down to really fine (almost like polish) grades. You can also try a dry sand paper (here it's called flour paper due to the fine dust like appearance of the carborundum) but as Klopstik has suggested wet is better. I can't recall off the top of my head what the finest grades are (P800 or something?) but your friendly hardware store salesman should be able to help you. Just lay the sandpaper in a bowl of water for a few minutes beforehand. And gently does it. You might want to get two grades of sandpaper (depending on how good your glue job is) and start off with the rougher one to remove the bumpier parts. When it starts to feel smooth go over to the final grade for a bit and then use a polish to finish it off.

that's a shave about the everready.
i've had bad luck with crazy glue in wet environments so hopefully it works out better for you.

Scott - is that Caruso singing in the video ?

Sorry about the accident but I do believe you have just inspired me to play some opera during my Saturday morning shave this week - as long as I don't start singing while wielding a cut throat

_________________
Robin

QuarkVI said:

Scott - is that Caruso singing in the video ?

Sorry about the accident but I do believe you have just inspired me to play some opera during my Saturday morning shave this week - as long as I don't start singing while wielding a cut throat

_________________
Robin

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I'm really not sure about who is singing in the vid. I merely wanted the music playing (sure felt like I could hear it when the handle bounced off the floor). When I found a guy shaving while the song plays, well, here we are.

My father back in the day used to go to an Italian barber and all he would play were Italian operas on a Victrola. Kind of makes me want to get a "singe" and keep a jar of leeches handy when I hear opera now...


Scott

shipr said:

that's a shave about the everready.
i've had bad luck with crazy glue in wet environments so hopefully it works out better for you.

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Any possible alternatives to crazy glue? Perhaps the oft-touted marine epoxy?

Scott

Pjotr said:

I can't recall off the top of my head what the finest grades are (P800 or something?) but your friendly hardware store salesman should be able to help you.

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Maybe this chart can help you help me? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sandpaper#Grit_size_table

I think I've seen 800 grit wet/dry paper at Homey D, but I can't be sure. I've been told auto parts stores are a better bet for finding what I need.

Scott

ZombieDad said:

Maybe this chart can help you help me? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sandpaper#Grit_size_table

I think I've seen 800 grit wet/dry paper at Homey D, but I can't be sure. I've been told auto parts stores are a better bet for finding what I need.

Scott

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I bought some 1000 and 1500 at Ace Hardware. If you need some, I can send you a couple sheets.

ZombieDad said:

Any possible alternatives to crazy glue? Perhaps the oft-touted marine epoxy?

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I've found Cyanoacrilate adhesives (Crazy Glue, etc.) to be very water resistant. I have a dinner plate that was repaired with CA glue several years ago and it is regularly run through the dishwasher with no problem. I also have a custom hand-turned wooden shave brush handle that was waterproofed with CA glue and it has also performed perfectly. I'm not sure how the CA glue was applied to the handle, but I believe it was multiple diluted coats. Perhaps one of our woodworking experts could provide additional details on this technique?

ZombieDad said:

Maybe this chart can help you help me? .....I've been told auto parts stores are a better bet for finding what I need.......

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Try a P600 or P800 depending on how rough the glue jpoint is and finish it off with a P1200 possibly P1500. That stuff gets so fine it's hard to tell which side is which. After that you start polishing. Use plenty of water on the sand paper. Good luck.

You could sneak in to your wife's nail varnish bag and borrow one of those multi surface nail surface polishing files.

Pjotr said:

Try a P600 or P800 depending on how rough the glue jpoint is and finish it off with a P1200 possibly P1500. That stuff gets so fine it's hard to tell which side is which. After that you start polishing. Use plenty of water on the sand paper. Good luck.

You could sneak in to your wife's nail varnish bag and borrow one of those multi surface nail surface polishing files.

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I'm far enough into the dog house with SWMBO that I need not adventure into her makeup bag, although I do understand the thinking behind using one.

Scott

Hex said:

I bought some 1000 and 1500 at Ace Hardware. If you need some, I can send you a couple sheets.

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Thanks for the offer, Hex. I've got a decent local hardware store in the area that may have it, I'll check them first and let you know. I know for certain they'd have the marine epoxy, so I wouldn't be surprised if they have the superfine sandpaper as well.

Scott

Epoxy isn't suitable for a repair like this. For an epoxy joint to be strong you need a thick layer of epoxy. A common newbie mistake is to treat epoxy like a wood glue and clamp the joint after applying the poxy. Squeezes the epoxy out and the joint loses most of its strength. To leave a thick enough layer of epoxy to hold this piece in would leave the piece standing proud with a visible glue line, not what you want.

Superglue is the way to go for this.

Easiest way to remove the old knot is to cut it flush with a box knife or carpet cutter. Don't worry about taping the ferrule, you won't hurt it and you will want to sand around the hole rim and clean it up before gluing the new knot in.

Bummer about the crack but i bet it will fix up nicely. This illustrates why fillers were added to bakelite where strength was required and looks were secondary.