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  1. #1

    Default How would one go about making replica decals?

    Hey everyone. One of the things that really appeals to me about vintage brushes are the old fashioned decals that used to go on them. I don't think Simpson brushes would have as much charm if it weren't for their classic decal, either.

    It's easy enough to replace a Simpson decal, but how would one make one of the classic Kent shields or Rooney crowns? Have any of you considered this issue?

    Thanks.
    Il faut reculer pour mieux sauter.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
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    Jersey Shore (north of *that* Jersey Shore)
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    At last, my love of old woodworking machines and wet shaving have finally crossed paths!

    First and foremost, you need to locate a high quality version of the decal you want to replace (try a Google search or ask a forum member with a quality decal to snap a photo). Scan this into your computer and touch it up with whatever program you're good with (Photoshop, GIMP, etc.) If you're not talented with these kinds of programs, you may have to ask for some help from forum members.

    Second, buy water slide decal paper. This is the paper that used to come with glue together model car kits. Testors and other model making companies sell this in 8.5 by 11 sheets so you can print out the decals at home. Also purchase ink sealer: this prevents the decal ink from bleeding out while you're prepping it for mounting.

    Print out your decal and give it a day or so to dry and then spray a light coat of the ink sealer. Let the sealer dry for another day, then cut out your decal. Do not rush the drying times unless you want the ink to run when you apply the sealer. Also do not cut out the decal before applying the sealer, it will seal the edges and will not release from the backing paper.

    Once you have your decal cut to size, drop it into a bowl of warm water. Leave it in the water for 5 seconds then remove. After about 5 more seconds the decal will start to release from the backing paper. Slide the decal off to the side of the backing and position for placement. Make sure you have cleaned the placement area with denatured alcohol to remove all traces of oils before applying the decal. "Lightly" smooth the decal from the center outwards to seal it to the surface and remove any excess water.

    This info was shamelessly cribbed from here (photos there might help you out) and I don't even pretend to be an expert on the subject, but it's a start for you.

    Scott
    Last edited by ZombieDad; 02-11-2011 at 09:16 AM.
    Abandon hope all ye who enter...

  3. #3
    Thread Starter

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    Thank you for that brilliant response. It actually seems quite feasible. I guess the first step is to call for decals from any members who have vintage brushes.

    If anyone's reading this and has a Kent, Rooney, Simpson, etc. with an old decal, please post up a zoomed in picture!
    Il faut reculer pour mieux sauter.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Jersey Shore (north of *that* Jersey Shore)
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    I know there are at least a few woodworker types who have an active sideline job of finding, scanning and digitally reproducing the many labels out there. Considering I have not seen many decals (mostly stamped or painted logos) there may not be much call for this.

    And, unless this is destined for the Smithsonian, I would add a clear spray coat over the decal to improve its rate of survival.

    Scott
    Abandon hope all ye who enter...

 

 

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