I'm sure there is an explanation for this bit since I don't know it I'll ask you guys. Inspired by me putting a small chip in a blade recently and knowing I have a small chip in one I have coming I was wondering. Why particularly on hollow ground razors where the metal is about the same thickness throughout most of the bottom half of the razor. Why can't you take a very fine tooth file or even any kind of sharpening stone and run the edge against it until the chip is gone? Granted you'll have a very dull razor but once the chip is gone can't you set the bevel and go from there?
Why do you "have" to hone out a chip in a blade?
- Thread starter Fletch
- Start date
I use a DMT Duo 200/325 to hone out chips.
isn't what the OP describes called breadknifing?
For chip removal I slightly elevate the spine off the hone(like you would with knives) and do back/forth strokes on each side until the chip is gone.
I have found bevel setting is much faster using this method instead of bread knifing.
/dmt 600 is my preferred weapon, but you can remove a chip with a norton 4k/naniwa 3k, coticule, it just takes more time.
I have found bevel setting is much faster using this method instead of bread knifing.
/dmt 600 is my preferred weapon, but you can remove a chip with a norton 4k/naniwa 3k, coticule, it just takes more time.
DMT 600/1200 combo. When taking out chips I tape the spine and remove them first with the 600 side. Then I re-tape and go to the 1200 side, after that I take the tape off and re-set as I would normally.
I use my coarse DMT plate to remove chips. I hold the razor upright, lean it barely a couple degrees to the opposite side of my hand as my thumb and push the razor forward at a slight angle to the right. ( I'm right handed ) In a distance of about 8 inches, I drift the blade to the right about half an inch. I repeat only forward strokes until the chip is gone.
Once the chip is gone, I put electrical tape on the spine to hone the blade very close to the proper bevel. Then I remove the tape to finish the honing process. I use coarse, fine, and extra fine DMT plates up to the point where the bevel has a proper set.
If you do not have the DMT plates, sandpaper affixed to a very flat surface also works like a charm. 220 - 325 grit for bad chips, and 400 for tiny ones.
Once the chip is gone, I put electrical tape on the spine to hone the blade very close to the proper bevel. Then I remove the tape to finish the honing process. I use coarse, fine, and extra fine DMT plates up to the point where the bevel has a proper set.
If you do not have the DMT plates, sandpaper affixed to a very flat surface also works like a charm. 220 - 325 grit for bad chips, and 400 for tiny ones.
People usually recommend using hones and some sort of honing stroke because its easier to keep the shape of the razor (for example if it has a smile), and even when you use a coarse plate, the edge keeps a coarse bevel that give you a place to start when you start honing for real.
Also, the people here who would be dealing with a chip have hones, so thats what they use. They might not have some other tool that would work, like a set of metal files.
My concern would be that the file might chip the bevel badly and leave you with alot of work and microchips. I have little XP filing metal, so I have no idea if thats a valid concern or not.
Also, the people here who would be dealing with a chip have hones, so thats what they use. They might not have some other tool that would work, like a set of metal files.
My concern would be that the file might chip the bevel badly and leave you with alot of work and microchips. I have little XP filing metal, so I have no idea if thats a valid concern or not.
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