Advice for Less Aggressive Shave

**skvinson** · 02-02-2011, 11:37 AM

I'm new to DE shaving (about 2 weeks). I bought a 'starter kit' from a member here. He gave me a great deal and I'm very thankful, but... I continue to get irritation after almost every shave. (I think there was 1 time I didn't) I'm sure some of it is the need for practice. I came from a Schick Hydro 3 and have to remember not to use pressure. But I'm wondering if there are any other suggestions, possibly of a different razor or soap.

I've been using a Merkur 34c, so far with Shark Super Stainless and Astra Superior Platinum blades. I also have some Derby's, Feathers and Red Personna's that I haven't tried yet.

I use Proraso Pre/Post-Shave and let it sit on my face for a few minutes. I've used Proraso Shaving cream (tube) so far. I have a puck of Van der Hagen glycerin shave soap that I haven't tried yet. I finish up with Nivea Revitalizing Double Action balm. I used the Proraso Pre/Post following my shave one day, but it left my face dry. Oh, I also shave before my shower. I'd prefer to keep it that way if possible.

Part of me is hoping I'll be told this is an aggressive razor and I should learn on something else. That would justify another one! But seriously, I want some tips to make the hours after my shave as enjoyable as the shave itself.

Thanks!

**franstjohn** · 02-02-2011, 12:01 PM

Welcome to B&B!

I suggest you take a look at this post http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php?t=71700.

One of the most important things you can do for yourself is to take your time and concentrate on beard reduction. Your prep appears fine but you may want to look at the Wikis here to see how your lather is stacking up. Until you get your technique down, I would suggest "with the grain" passes only and no pressure.

Let us know how you make out.

**njpaddy** · 02-02-2011, 12:41 PM

Be patient, there is a learning curve involved with DE. Watch (or re-watch) the mantic videos, concentrate on technique and avoid making too many passes trying for a close shave. If you feel the 34 is too aggressive, try a Tech or SuperSpeed. I'm sure you can get one pretty cheap from another member. I use a Merkur 34 part of the year, but during winter months I prefer my less aggressive 40's style SuperSpeed. Blades are really a matter of personal choice. I prefer less aggressive blades, a Merkur blade (hated by many) in my 34 and Red Personna in my SS. A friend who also uses a 34 prefers a Feather blade in his. One aftershave product I swear by is witch hazel. I find a good healthy splash of WH really helps with irritation. I splash it on, let it dry, take my shower, splash some more WH on, then an AS if I'm going anywhere. I've actually stopped using a balm. For $1-$3 a bottle, WH is worth trying.

**ackvil** · 02-02-2011, 12:43 PM

Usually irritation is caused by improper blade angle, poor preparation, too much pressure, and /or lather. Other causes can be an aggressive razor and blades that don't agree with your face.

That's a lot to deal with so take it one by one.

Here is a good post that will help you on blade angle. DE shaving is different from cartridge shaving in that you must be sure you are not putting any pressure on the blade. Let the weight of the razor do the work for you. To assure this I use two fingers and my thumb to hold the razor with another finger resting on the tip of the handle. This results in holding the razor very lightly with no pressure on the razor. You want to hold the razor as lightly as you can without it falling from your hand.

Before putting the razor to your face you should map the grain on your face so you know which way the grain of your beard grows. You can use http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1168/...bf0522a0_o.jpg as a guide. The first pass should be with the grain, whichever direction that is, with subsequent passes across the grain. Initially, until your technique is good, against the grain passes should be avoided.

The wiki on lather is particularly helpful on how to make a good lather.

Also, you may want to consider cold water shaving. A number of B&Bers have found cold water shaving has helped with their irritation problems.

Finally, you may want to try the Red Personnas - a blade that is more forgiving than many others.

**skvinson** · 02-02-2011, 01:05 PM

Thanks for the help. I have been using ATG passes - since I used them with the Schick. I'll lay off for awhile. I will check out the lather wiki. I looked at some pix, and my lather is not near as full. Will also get the Witch Hazel.

Thanks!

**Go West Young Man** · 02-02-2011, 04:28 PM

Heck, 2 weeks in? You're SUPPOSED to be tearing yourself up at this point.
Just relax, work on your fundamentals, review the stickies frequently, and every day identify one thing you can do a little better tomorrow.

In a couple months you won't even remember having posted this thread!

**skvinson** · 02-02-2011, 05:54 PM

Originally Posted by Go West Young Man

Heck, 2 weeks in? You're SUPPOSED to be tearing yourself up at this point.
Just relax, work on your fundamentals, review the stickies frequently, and every day identify one thing you can do a little better tomorrow.

In a couple months you won't even remember having posted this thread!

OK, makes sense. I guess patience isn't my virtue!

**skvinson** · 02-03-2011, 11:00 PM

Skipped the ATG pass today. Not a very close shave at all, but no real irritation. I'll do a couple XTG passes tommorrow and see how it goes.

Thanks again!

**denim** · 02-04-2011, 12:17 AM

You'll get better over time. Honest.

**gswearengin** · 02-04-2011, 02:46 AM

+(whatever) to what everyone else has said; it is probably largely technique but...

You *are* using a somewhat aggressive razor and blade combo there. If you have pretty sensitive skin, it may be a bit much for you. Everyone's face reacts differently to different blades, but of those you have, I would suggest giving the Derby's a shot. They are pretty polarizing here...people either think they are great or have been re-engineered to mangle people's faces.

If you continue having problems with irritation, you may want to try a slightly less aggressive razor. I went from a 34C to a Gillette Tech (first pre-WWII, now ball-end) and the difference was noticeable. They are very common and can be found pretty cheaply around here. I have been meaning to give the 34C another chance, though.

Good luck,

GS

**JeffM** · 02-04-2011, 05:04 AM

Have you tried Kyle's prep to soften your beard and condition your face? A hot wet towel and lather for a couple of minutes also feels great. A Tech or Superspeed fills the bill for a mild razor and can be had cheap.

**Foyle** · 02-04-2011, 05:36 AM

I for one can't shave ATG. Lots of gents can't so don't worry if ATG doesn't work for you. I can still get a super DFS with WTG and XTG passes. As your technique improves the quality of your shaves will improve noticeably.

**skvinson** · 02-04-2011, 06:16 AM

I have a Slim and 40's SS on the way. (I admitted I was looking for an excuse to buy another razor!) I also got much better lather after reading some threads. I'm sure things will continue to improve.

Thanks for the advice!

**njmodi** · 02-04-2011, 06:23 AM

I think you'll find the 40s SS much smoother to shave with than the 34C. Try the SS with an Astra - it's way milder than a Shark + 34C, or Astra + 34C.

I don't shave ATG anywhere - it's instant irritation for me. Even without going ATG, my shaves are way smoother, better and closer than I ever got with any cartridge...

I sitll find my my neck gets most easily irritated... even with the SS...

**ProphetNoir** · 02-05-2011, 06:20 PM

Be patient with the process and read the sticky threads like you have to take a test - the test is your shave. Time will pass more quickly than you think and one day you will be writing about the BBS you achieved without even trying. Trust me, it is better that way. Even a one pass shave is a good one if you aren't irritated a day later.

**skvinson** · 02-05-2011, 06:33 PM

Yeah, I have been going back over the stickies, etc. It has helped, especially w. making lather.

**edorgon** · 02-07-2011, 08:15 AM

Surprisingly, the merkur 1904 open comb is VERY mild and not aggressive. I actually use it with a feather, and it produces a near BBS with NO irritation, WTG, ATG and XTG. Be even more conservative and use Astra stainless.

**luvmysuper** · 02-07-2011, 08:47 AM

Give it time as others have said.
It takes time to unlearn all the bad habits of cartridge shaving and there just is no cure for that except practice, and unfortunately - we can only do this about once a day.

It does get better, your technique will develop and before long you'll be telling the noobs how to avoid the irritation they complain about.

**skvinson** · 02-07-2011, 08:49 AM

Was planning on revisiting this tread today... My last 2 shaves have been great. Virtually no irritation, AND that despite having an ATG pass. (As much as I didn't like the irritation from earlier shaves, they totally got me spoiled on the quality of the shave itself) The biggest factors were better lather and less pressure.

Thanks for the help!