What did you hone today?
- Thread starter ouch
- Start date
Thanks Doc.
H. Diamond and Koshaku
My latest find. A very mint 13/16 Hoffritz Barbers King. King 1k, vintage coticule, y/g Fox extra soft water hone.
Full Arkansas/oil progression on a junker eBay Shumate. Half-laps with the soft Ark really did the trick in killing microchips. Shave off black Ark was a bit harsh. Had to use pastes as a finisher. Still harsh, so after shaving, passed blade on tiny vintage trans. Ark for about 200 laps or so. We'll see what tomorrow brings.
This wasn't a major hone job but it could be described as a very necessary touch-up.
Great little shaver. W H GREAVEMEYER KeenEdge. They named this blade appropriately.
Fast
________________________________
Great little shaver. W H GREAVEMEYER KeenEdge. They named this blade appropriately.
Fast
________________________________
~~~Thaks Rick!, German it probably is...that's what I was thinking...the blade looks too nice to be Pakastani, and same with the Schales...they too look to be of German origin. Here's a few pics of mine-
Rick...notice how the show side of my blade has the same tarnish in the same spot as yours, near the toe, upper 1/3rd part of the blade
you can see the crack in the schale by the pivot pin in this photo...which is why I haven't done anything with this razor yet...been thinking maybe this razor would be the one to interest me into the art of building schales, but it hasn't come to that yet...too much on my plate
but what I've been thinking about doibng is to un-pin this Wade-Butcher blade from this set of horn schales and pin my Piedmont blade to them. FWIW, the W&B blade needs a re-grind...it's in horrible shape
Anyways, the Piedmont does look to be an interesting edge I want to shave with so maybe I'll do the pin work and begin cleaning/honing so I can shave with it soon=
Best,
Jake
Reddick Fla.
~~~Thaks Rick!, German it probably is...that's what I was thinking...the blade looks too nice to be Pakastani, and same with the Schales...they too look to be of German origin. Here's a few pics of mine-
Rick...notice how the show side of my blade has the same tarnish in the same spot as yours, near the toe, upper 1/3rd part of the blade
you can see the crack in the schale by the pivot pin in this photo...which is why I haven't done anything with this razor yet...been thinking maybe this razor would be the one to interest me into the art of building schales, but it hasn't come to that yet...too much on my plate
but what I've been thinking about doibng is to un-pin this Wade-Butcher blade from this set of horn schales and pin my Piedmont blade to them. FWIW, the W&B blade needs a re-grind...it's in horrible shape
Anyways, the Piedmont does look to be an interesting edge I want to shave with so maybe I'll do the pin work and begin cleaning/honing so I can shave with it soon=
Best,
Jake
Reddick Fla.
I thought the grind looked a lot like a J.R. Torrey grind I have then I found this:
Razors. — J. R. Torrey & Co. manufacture razor
strops and dressing-cases, and are situated at the
corner of Piedmont and Chandler Streets. The
business was be^uu in a very small way in 18-58 by J. R.
Torrey. Jn 1875 his son, L. H. Torrey, was admit-
ted to partnership. The business has increased until
they have become the largest manufacturers of razor
strops in the world.
Coincidence or not?
Could be Mack, who knows. It didn't hone like a Torrey, those darn thing are hard as heck. I used it yesterday and got a real nice shave out of it.
I loves me a Torrey
Best,
Jake
Reddick Fla.
Best,
Jake
Reddick Fla.
Dorko 15/16,
Nakayama Asagi, typical Nagura progresson, subbed an Atoma for the Tomo.
Pure bliss.
Nakayama Asagi, typical Nagura progresson, subbed an Atoma for the Tomo.
Pure bliss.
Is Iyo the same as Iyoto? I guess, if so, "to" has the same meaning as "do" in "awasedo". I have an Iyoto, which I got 2.5 years ago, but have been hesitant to use it on razors. (I actually haven't used it much at all.) I'd also never thought of using it to generate slurry on an awasedo because of the scratches it might make on the awasedo. I'd like to hear more about your impression of them.
Iyo is what I call Iyoto, not sure if that's correct, it just started one day and stuck.
To and do have the same meaning at the end of Awase, at least that's what I've read.
I use the Iyo to slurry, mine is all white, fairly aggressive but easy to control and work with. With the Greaves, I used it to set the bevel, and worked it till the edge was ready for the Chu. The Chu I have is a bit of an odd duck, it's more like Koma than the garden variety Chu that's alleged to be around 500x. The Iyo was selected for me by Nakaoka-San for setting bevels on straights. I hate putting grit assignments on a natural, but for the sake of discussion, we can say it's about 800x-1k ish. The slurry from it seems to go for a loooomg time and it breaks slowly. I got a sweet edge on that two Nagura progression. A good friend of mine, who gifted the Chu to me, copied this progression and he had similar results.
Not all Iyo is the same, some are more fine and less aggressive.
Same for Chu apparently.
The Iyo I have now is very clean, no inclusions, so there's no worries about scratching he Awase. It's fairly soft too.
It was about 5.5 x 2.5 when I got it, maybe 700g, and 1" thick. I sharpened a utility knife on it and I was impressed. The scratch pattern on the knife's bevel looked good so I took a razor to it and it cut a basic bevel quickly without wreaking havoc. so I cut the stone up into two hunks, one for me and the other for a friend. It had a big crack running through it, so cutting it up was the plan all along.
Ive had other Iyo in the past, they were clean too, one was coarse, the other was quite fine - neither were as aggressive as the piece I have here now though.
To and do have the same meaning at the end of Awase, at least that's what I've read.
I use the Iyo to slurry, mine is all white, fairly aggressive but easy to control and work with. With the Greaves, I used it to set the bevel, and worked it till the edge was ready for the Chu. The Chu I have is a bit of an odd duck, it's more like Koma than the garden variety Chu that's alleged to be around 500x. The Iyo was selected for me by Nakaoka-San for setting bevels on straights. I hate putting grit assignments on a natural, but for the sake of discussion, we can say it's about 800x-1k ish. The slurry from it seems to go for a loooomg time and it breaks slowly. I got a sweet edge on that two Nagura progression. A good friend of mine, who gifted the Chu to me, copied this progression and he had similar results.
Not all Iyo is the same, some are more fine and less aggressive.
Same for Chu apparently.
The Iyo I have now is very clean, no inclusions, so there's no worries about scratching he Awase. It's fairly soft too.
It was about 5.5 x 2.5 when I got it, maybe 700g, and 1" thick. I sharpened a utility knife on it and I was impressed. The scratch pattern on the knife's bevel looked good so I took a razor to it and it cut a basic bevel quickly without wreaking havoc. so I cut the stone up into two hunks, one for me and the other for a friend. It had a big crack running through it, so cutting it up was the plan all along.
Ive had other Iyo in the past, they were clean too, one was coarse, the other was quite fine - neither were as aggressive as the piece I have here now though.
Nice - Many of the striped ones he and I discussed were 2kish, and harder. I want one of them next.
Interesting. Well, I went and lapped all sides of mine so that it's ready to use. I'd previously only partially lapped it. Little chunks come off of it, but I think they're from the rough edges and sides, so I lapped every side smooth--even the ends. My only other concern is the large su. I'll have to put a cheap blade on it for initial testing. I still need to send some razors off to other people, so that'll have to be next week at the earliest. Oh, and the slurry stone is lighter than the hone, but both are striped. Here's a picture of them from two years ago:
Nice. I once had a razor of the same brand, but I mangled it with a rotary tool while trying to "restore" it. (It had a bit of pitting but mostly patina.)
That's when I decided not to use a rotary tool on razors.By the way, Stoddard's is a store that still exists, although they're sadly no longer in their original Downtown Crossing location in Boston. That building is now Stoddard's Food and Ale. The cutlery shop moved to nearby Newton, Massachusetts. The store is the oldest cutlery store in America that's still in business. By that, I mean they were founded in 1800. The current proprietor says that they were the first to import Heljestrand to the US. They also have some really cool display brushes. And by really cool, I mean they make the Simpson Polo 14 seem tiny. I've never felt such a soft brush either. It looks like they have an online store now, which looks sparse, but the physical store is worth a trip if in the Newton area, even if it's not the grand store that once was next to the Boston Common. Download Crossing is now filled with cheap and mostly worthless stores--some of them the usual big box stores you can find anywhere. There's the occasional nice store in that neighborhood, like Bromfield Pen Shop, but I can only imagine what it would have been like one hundred years ago. It's a shame to see so many great local stores shutter up and have their location reopened as yet another big chain store. Anyway, if you ever visit, David, who is the owner, is very nice and will talk your ear off.
Very nice looking Iyoto, ESP the smaller one. That's exactly what I've been thinking of getting.
Your large stone may have a few inclusions, might not - hard to tell from the pic.
But, if you were going to make Nagura from it, you would just cut around all of that. As a Toishi, I'd want a clear stone, no Su, no inclusions, no cracks. The one I just cut up was clear of Su, and inclusions, but it had a wicked fissure running through it.
When hw and I were emailing about the Iyo I jist ordered, had one very clean striped stone, but it was around 200.00 before Shipping.
I'd rather just wait for a Nagura like yours to show up.
Your large stone may have a few inclusions, might not - hard to tell from the pic.
But, if you were going to make Nagura from it, you would just cut around all of that. As a Toishi, I'd want a clear stone, no Su, no inclusions, no cracks. The one I just cut up was clear of Su, and inclusions, but it had a wicked fissure running through it.
When hw and I were emailing about the Iyo I jist ordered, had one very clean striped stone, but it was around 200.00 before Shipping.
I'd rather just wait for a Nagura like yours to show up.
The little one had a crack that grew, and the whole thing broke into two a year and a half ago. I kept the big piece and gave the other away.
How do you test for toxic inclusions in these? I know the dark skin on the far side of the small stone (underside and not visible) is very hard. The rest and the big stone are both very soft and porous. I'm not sure of how you'd find one without su. All sides of these have them.
Now I'm curious how this one compares to other Iyoto. I got it for around $20-30 from Nakaoka, but shipping wasn't so bad since I bought an asagi (individually listed) at the same time. I had to ask for a slurry stone, and it was something like $5 more. The asagi was good too even though it had inclusion lines running through it. The edges it left were splendid. I should have kept it and the large nagura I sold with it. Nagura as big as they were are hard to find these days. All this stuff is more expensive these days, especially since knowledge of Japanese naturals is much more common these days, for better or worse.
How do you test for toxic inclusions in these? I know the dark skin on the far side of the small stone (underside and not visible) is very hard. The rest and the big stone are both very soft and porous. I'm not sure of how you'd find one without su. All sides of these have them.
Now I'm curious how this one compares to other Iyoto. I got it for around $20-30 from Nakaoka, but shipping wasn't so bad since I bought an asagi (individually listed) at the same time. I had to ask for a slurry stone, and it was something like $5 more. The asagi was good too even though it had inclusion lines running through it. The edges it left were splendid. I should have kept it and the large nagura I sold with it. Nagura as big as they were are hard to find these days. All this stuff is more expensive these days, especially since knowledge of Japanese naturals is much more common these days, for better or worse.
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