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What did you hone today?



Packwood I just finished re scaling, took some time to get through some swiss cheese on the bevel, all work on the Chosera 1K, then went to a Nakayama Suita with a couple of Atoma generated slurries, finished on Kiita with Atoma slurry.

Stropped on clean leather on a K3, shave tomorrow
 
Refinished this lovely ERN Es-Ex on my previously problematic Purple Llyn Melyllyn
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On advice from people who know what they're talking about, I resurfaced this stone with 400 w/d and it has become a wizard's tool!
 
Thought I'd see what happens if I go from the Purple Llyn Melynllyn to 0.3u then 0.05u film:
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An ERN Es-Ex, a Kropp, a Bengall and that crazy Magnetic Eagle all got the treatment, and I guess there's two different ways of interpreting the result:
a) Wow, this edge is really sharp but man it's harsh!

or

b) Wow, this edge is really harsh but man it's sharp!
 
Keith hit the nail on the head on a number of points. As for stropping revealing old scratches, it's actually a LOT more obvious with honing... bevel stone scars appearing after a finisher (and getting blamed on the finisher), because the area around them is polished enough they are no longer obfuscated.

It's very very very difficult to resolve scratches below about 1-1.5 micron at 400x. If memory serves, around 0.5-1 micron the wavelength of light approaching the scratch width starts to become an issue. (We discussed this a bit in a thread several years ago).

That said, a fully polished bevel off several of my Jnat's, Ekretz stone, a 13k Synthetic, and a few other stones have no distinguishable scratch pattern at 400x (Agate as well if my memory serves), outside of the odd "damage" scratches that may be inflicted. Similarly, if an uncharged strop is leaving scratches, then there is something amiss. Possibly the strop has grit on it that shouldn't be there, possibly it's helping to reveal scratches already present, etc.
 
To distinguish the scratches, I alternate perpendicular and diagonal move between stones.
So it should be clear which marks I am seeing. Yet, at 100x, I think I see way to much.
I should try 400x as you suggest. I have the microscope, I am just typically too lazy to dig it up.

You bring a good point about light and angle too. I find indeed that rotating the blade a bit shows different set of lines.

OK, I'll confess: I have no clues what I am looking at.
 
Tonight I honed my Le Grelot 14.
I did not bother with the Imperia La Rocchia this time and stuck to synthetic.
But after the Shapton 16K, I pulled my Corsican fennel strop (pictured under the razor). I got that a while back but did not use it.
The result were good as it quickly got me HHT
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David

B&B’s Champion Corn Shucker
I finally had some time to hone today. Old W&B wedge. Bevel set on C1k, Nuba 5k, Snow White then on to a vintage coti with very light slurry down to water. The coti put the "brakes on" way sooner than I would have thought. No HHT off the stone but after stropping it's good. Curious to see how it shaves and also wondering what would have happened if I'd pushed it further on the coti.
 

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Nice progression, depending on the coticule will you get two bumps on the edge after the Snow White, one after the initial light slurry and the other after water only. Lately I've been skipping the slurry portion of the exercise and going straight to water only, setting the edge back after the SW doesn't always result in a refinement kick moving forward with slurry. Water only has been more consistent for me.
 

David

B&B’s Champion Corn Shucker
Thanks for the Tips Nelson. The reason I used light slurry is because the coti I used is dead slow on water and I wanted to try and get most of the 8k scratches removed before going to water. I don't count my laps but I'd say after 4-5 minutes on water the edge really started to push back at me and I stopped. Should I have kept going?
 

David

B&B’s Champion Corn Shucker
I was trying to duplicate the coti edge you put on my Dorko. (It shaved great by the way). Your scratches were very shallow and the bevel was very polished. The bevel on the wedge has a great polish but I can still see 8k scratches when I hold it right in the light.
 
The pushing back can mean stop but if the undercut is nice it can mean continue, you will encounter conflicting tells from time to time especially with Coticules and some middle "grit" jnats. The cool thing is that as you experience this sort of thing it crystalizes your approach and increases your understanding.
 
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David

B&B’s Champion Corn Shucker
Ok. I just shaved with the wedge. Nice smooth shave, but it lacked the keenness I'm used too. I'll take it back to the coti on water and see what I can do with it. Thanks again for the advice.
 
I was trying to duplicate the coti edge you put on my Dorko. (It shaved great by the way). Your scratches were very shallow and the bevel was very polished. The bevel on the wedge has a great polish but I can still see 8k scratches when I hold it right in the light.

Was it finished on a pasted strop?
 

David

B&B’s Champion Corn Shucker
Scott's Coti edges look the same way...highly polished bevel and shallow scratch pattern. Maybe it's got something to do with circles. They both use circles and for the past few months I've been using x-strokes only. (Except for bevel sets)
 
No pasted strop of any kind, I haven't used paste or sprays in years. I have tested Uchigumori powder/TI white but only to satisfy my own curiosity, never on anyone's razor.

David, I would recommend you take the edge back to the SW and shave off of that first to feel what's up on a sensory level then go to the coticule water only to see where you're at.
 
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