Observations re face lathering

So for several years now I've relegated shave sticks to times when I'm traveling; at home, I always built a "proper" lather in a heated scuttle. But as much as I enjoy the feeling of applying hot lather to my face, I've found that loading the soap on my face and building the lather there actually produces superior shaves.

It all started a few months back when an Arko shave stick got smashed in my Dopp kit. I mashed it into a small bowl and added it to my arsenal of shave pucks. But after a few sessions of loading the brush in the bowl and building the lather in the scuttle, I thought I was seeing more "weepers" than I had on my recent trip.

Time for an experiment! I kept everything else the same, but did three different things with the soap: 1. Rub shave stick on face, build lather on face. 2. Load brush in bowl, build lather on face. 3. Load brush in bowl, build lather in scuttle, apply to face.

I did this for several weeks using different soaps, and even pried the puck of Tabac out of its little glass bowl to participate in the experiment. With every soap, method 1 produced superior results. Smoother shaving, fewer weepers, and closer shaves.

My theory is that putting un-lathered soap right on the skin forms a "film" that adheres more thoroughly than lather. Even after thorough work with the brush, it seems like there's a layer that remains **underneath** the lather and provides a little extra slickness.

The downside is that I can't build as thick a lather on my face as I can in a scuttle. But I found a simple solution to that, too - a dab of Proraso shave cream on the brush and it's the best of both worlds.

To improve my shaves I started putting a layer of lather on my face right after I load it from a puck so that there's a thin one or two swipe lather. During that time it has had a chance for the lather to start on my face by softing the hairs up. Then I build the lather in the bowl for a few. After its the right texture, I then lather on top of my proto-lather. The extra layer helps out and its part face part lathering part bowl. Helps alot.

You know, I've noticed the same thing. I love that first pass, too.

I keep wanting to face lather and be part of the club but it just can't get the lather right. don't want to change too many variables as I dial in my technique but maybe I should give it another go

I think that using a soap as a stick has the simple effect of using more product which results in a denser, more effective lather.

DavidP said:

I think that using a soap as a stick has the simple effect of using more product which results in a denser, more effective lather.

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That's funny you say that, because I would contend that I use far less product with a stick than loading off a puck.

Two words: brush scuttle.

I get a better experience from sticks as well. In fact, I used my Arko stick this morning just because it gives me great results. I'm tempted to become a stick-only face latherer: Arko, Tabac, Irisch Moos, Spieck...you could build a nice rotation from just sticks.

I've tried building up the protolather on a puck and applying the protolather to my face before building up the lather to try to duplicate the stick experience, but it hasn't been the same.

DavidP said:

I think that using a soap as a stick has the simple effect of using more product which results in a denser, more effective lather.

Click to expand...

drewmac said:

That's funny you say that, because I would contend that I use far less product with a stick than loading off a puck.

Click to expand...

I'm inclined to believe it is more of a time element than anything. The longer exposure does a better prep.