What paint for a brush handle

[Hex]

I got this brush as part of a grab bag and really liked the color so I started cleaning it up.

Disaster. Apparently the brush was hand painted and the blue color began running as I tried to get the decal off.
Also, that dark line nearer to the base seems to have been drawn with a black permanent marker. The brush is now all white with some spots of wood showing through near the top.
The metal ring is also gone.

So, I am planning on sanding it down to the wood and try and repaint it the same pretty blue color.

What kind of paint would I use and would I need some sealant, etc. ?

thanks

[Kentos]

I think any paint would be ok, though I would gravitate towards a spray paint. More importantly use a good polyurethane varnish to seal it. Nice brush btw.

[Telecaster52]

honestly, spraypaint will give you the desired results

BUT

Just like shaving, proper prep is the most important step in finishing/refinishing anything, be it wood, metal, etc. Sand in stages, 150, 220, 320, 400. Spray your color of choice in multiple thin coats, wet sanding between ever 2 coats with 400-600 grit paper. Once the color is uniform and smooth (it's gonna be a relatively long process) wet sand with 600 grit paper to knock the gloss off, wipe the residue with a good tack cloth (cloth diapers work surprisingly well) and let the paint cure for 24-48 hours (whatever the can says), this is important as it allows the enamel (99% of the spraypaint you'll come across) to "gas out". Skip this step, and you'll get bubbles in the clearcoat.

For the clearcoat, I'm going to recommend spray lacquer or spray polyurethane. Lacquer will age just like the original finish, poly will stand up to more abuse. Your choice, depending on what look you're going for. Use the same multiple thin coat technique with your clear as you did with the color. With lacquer, 8-10 coats minimum, with poly 4-5 (poly is thicker and builds up faster). Allow lacquer to cure for at least a week, poly can be finish sanded/buffed within a few days.

Wet sand starting with ~800 grit, making sure to cover the surface evenly.

From here you have a few choices as to what route you're going with the finsh sanding:

wet sand 800 > 1000 > 1500 > 2000 > polish

( I recommend this on poly, since it's a harder compound)

OR

wet sand 800 > 1000 > buffing/rubbing compound > polish

(works slower, but removes less material. better for lacquer finishes)


Whichever route you choose, take your time, take pics of the progress, and have fun with it

Best of luck with the restore, and I can't wait to see the results

EDIT: Also if you plan on keeping the decal, i would attach it 1-2 coats in to the clearcoat, so you have room to work with the material on top, this way, the decal will be sealed inside the finish and not fall off

[Hex]

Thank you Telecaster for those detailed instructions. That is exactly what I need, a cookbook approach.

Here is the brush after pass 1 of getting the old blue off.
I actually liked the original 2-tone effect and want to try and do it again. The white at the base of the brush is still in good shape so maybe it will work out.

The knot is a TGN UK boar and is very white on its' own. It should make a nice contrast if I can replicate the blue.

[cooncatbob]

Rustoleum makes a multiple surface spray paint that dries reasonable fast and polishes out nicely.
I used it on a black razor handle for a Gem.

[Hex]

Thank you Bob for the suggestion. I was looking at their colors and there seem to be 2 colors of blue that are close.

1) Navy Blue
2) Deep Blue

I wonder how close the can lid color is to the final appearance.

I recall that when I was looking for a navy blue colored suit, it was nearly black. Maybe I will get a can of each and test them for color.

[cooncatbob]

Thank you Bob for the suggestion. I was looking at their colors and there seem to be 2 colors of blue that are close.

1) Navy Blue
2) Deep Blue

I wonder how close the can lid color is to the final appearance.

I recall that when I was looking for a navy blue colored suit, it was nearly black. Maybe I will get a can of each and test them for color.

If your using a oil based paint you need to let it dry for at least 2 weeks. especially if you plan to polish it on the lathe, I use micro-mesh pads then car polishing compounds.
If you try to polish too soon you'll smear the finish and have to start over.