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  1. #1
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    Default Mineral Oil Bath

    I know that there have been a number of threads about soaking a razor in mineral oil, but none of them have answered my question of: how long to soak for? I am currently soaking a 1940's British Rocket that I got off eBay. The TTO works slowly and the silo doors do not open completely. I soaked the razor overnight and there has only been a slight improvement. Should I soak for multiple days or for as long as needed until it loosens up?

    Any thoughts?

    Thanks.

    - Jeff

  2. #2
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    Default

    IMHO - An overnight soak should be more than enough time wet the mechanism with oil. I suspect that you need to do another boil or soaking in a soap-scum-removing cleanser to eliminate built up crud in the mechanism.

    Good luck!
    Cheers, Dave

  3. #3
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    Thread Starter

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    Dave,

    Thanks. I'll reboil it tonight. Actually I use an ultrasonic jewelry cleaner which works well.

    Would I then reoil it after cleaning, or is the overnight soak enough?

    Jeff

  4. #4
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    Jan 2007
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    Ohio
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jfala View Post
    Dave,

    Thanks. I'll reboil it tonight. Actually I use an ultrasonic jewelry cleaner which works well.

    Would I then reoil it after cleaning, or is the overnight soak enough?

    Jeff
    I have soaked up to three days but the other key is working it in take it out and open a close for awhile to break it back in from sitting. Also check the hinges on the doors to see if they are bent, if they are mineral oil will not help to you straighten them.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
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    Gainesville Florida
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    Quote Originally Posted by Taz View Post
    I have soaked up to three days but the other key is working it in take it out and open a close for awhile to break it back in from sitting. Also check the hinges on the doors to see if they are bent, if they are mineral oil will not help to you straighten them.
    That reminds me of a mechanic friend of mine. Someone asked him what additive they should put into their car to stop the "knocking" noise they were hearing. He listened, looked, spend some time checking the car out, and informed them that they probably had bent valves and a spun rod bearing due to running the car out of oil. The guy looked at him and said "So, I just need to add oil, or should I use Slick 50?"

    Not making fun of anyone here, just reminded of how oil will not fix a mechanical problem ...
    Ted

    General rules of EMS - excerpts
    - In any given Code Blue, check your own pulse first. If you've got one, it's not your emergency.
    - 9-1-1 = "you call, we haul"
    - It can be fun to yell "Game on!" when pushing the Narcan ... [SIZE="1"](thanks Doc Mottern!)[/SIZE]

  6. #6
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    Ohio
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    Quote Originally Posted by ClockworkOrange View Post
    That reminds me of a mechanic friend of mine. Someone asked him what additive they should put into their car to stop the "knocking" noise they were hearing. He listened, looked, spend some time checking the car out, and informed them that they probably had bent valves and a spun rod bearing due to running the car out of oil. The guy looked at him and said "So, I just need to add oil, or should I use Slick 50?"

    Not making fun of anyone here, just reminded of how oil will not fix a mechanical problem ...


  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jfala View Post
    I know that there have been a number of threads about soaking a razor in mineral oil, but none of them have answered my question of: how long to soak for? I am currently soaking a 1940's British Rocket that I got off eBay. The TTO works slowly and the silo doors do not open completely. I soaked the razor overnight and there has only been a slight improvement. Should I soak for multiple days or for as long as needed until it loosens up?
    Quote Originally Posted by Taz View Post
    Also check the hinges on the doors to see if they are bent, if they are mineral oil will not help to you straighten them.


    As TAZ said the mineral oil won't work if the side plates are bent which seems to be very common on the British non end capped side plates. These look to be made of copper, are extremely malleable, and can be straightened very easily.

    Here you can see my Brit side plate kit. A hammer, a short 1/4" socket extension, a flat board and a piece of clear tape covered cardboard to protect the razor finish.



    Most side plates will be bent in towards the handle and will cause the doors to not open fully or one side will drag. If that is the case they can be straightened with a sharp tap with the socket extension routed through to the other side plate from above. Make sure the razor is level and on a solid surface.



    If by chance the side plates and tabs are bent out or you get a little too aggressive with the hammer you can bend them back with the other side of the extension.





    After some tapping back and forth I've restored a few British razors that would only open a third of the way with effort to fully functional English smooth again.
    Last edited by MTgrayling; 12-31-2007 at 01:25 PM. Reason: spelling

 

 

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