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Wood Scales Question

Do wood scales have some sort of sealant on them so water doesn't affect them. Considering is around water a lot, I would be able to keep the wood dry all the time. I hope it has a sealant so the wood won't distort or something.
 
You know that's a good question considering that I leave my straight in the shower where I shave. Maybe Luc will chime in.
 
Good wooden scales are treated with a finish that protects them from water.

I believe that I read here somewhere that eventually your wooden scales will break down. Maybe it isn't true or not, but that's just what I read.
 
I try to keep water out of the pivot when I shave. I also dry the pivot and scales throroughly inside and out after every shave and strop on linen before putting the razor to bed for the night. I haven't seen any kind of warping or anything, but I suppose some oil-based finish might give some additional protection.
 
After yesterday's shave I observed that the water beads off of the scales which are made of teak so it seems they may have some water repellent properties built in. I should also note that I thourghly shake the water off when I'm done shaving so it's not like it's sitting there.
 
Keeping a straight in the shower is bad, very bad. There is simply too much humidity which doesn't mix with steel. As far as wood scales go certain woods like the hard stuff, teak and mahogany do better but even when treated and sealed and stabilized eventually it will deteriorate if it gets wet enough. If you look at vintage razors you just don't see many with wood scales. Either they haven't lasted and were replaced or they didn't use them because of longevity issues.
 
I may be inclined to agree with you but I've been keeping my kit in the shower for years with no issue so I'm going to carryon and to each their own, besides if my razor goes bad I have a "legitimate" reason to buy another. :wink2:
 
Keeping a straight in the shower is bad, very bad. There is simply too much humidity which doesn't mix with steel. As far as wood scales go certain woods like the hard stuff, teak and mahogany do better but even when treated and sealed and stabilized eventually it will deteriorate if it gets wet enough. If you look at vintage razors you just don't see many with wood scales. Either they haven't lasted and were replaced or they didn't use them because of longevity issues.

What would you consider to be longevity scales? I want to get a razor with scales that will last a long time.
 
I've done a number of different finishes on wood handles for straight razors and knives and I would never leave the wood untreated, regardless if the type of wood used. I have done CA finishes, poly, boiled linseed, tru-oil... All are good finishes but none are perfect. My favorites are hand rubbed oil finishes but they take a long time to do. CA finishes are damn near bomb proof but you lose the feel of wood and now your scales feel like plastic. BLO finishes are fine but need to be touched up now and again. Now I try to just use stabilized wood taken up to 2000 grit and then either a couple coats BLO or buffed with beeswax. Actually I guess I buff with beeswax on pretty much all my handles...
 
Oil finishes are the best for wood. Epoxy is the worst.

Finishing with oil not only adds protection from water, but also soaks in and protects around the pin hole so moisture will have little to no effect on the scales. This type of finish should always be used on the exotic woods that naturally expel oil such as Ebony, Rosewood and others.

CA finishes are bullet proof, as described earlier, and are a great substitute on the oily exotic woods, if you prefer a gloss finish.

Oil finishes can be made to have a gloss by using Poly or Laquer over top of it. The reason this works is because you normally don't put a gloss finish on the inside of the scale and the wood can still breath.

The problem I have encountered with using Epoxy is it not only eventually discolors, but also chips and shrinks in time. If used on the Oily woods it will start to release at some point and you will need to refinish it again. Epoxy looks wonderful when you first get it, but it doesn't stay that way. I wouldn't use it for any of our items like scales and brush handles. Just my own experience.

Ray

http://www.straightrazorsharp.com
 
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If you are willing to do the maint they would probably last a lifetime if they are not subject to constant wetting. I would bet most are not willing to do the maint so it's easier to use something else. After all sailing ships in the old days were wood and lived in sea water however they were coated in tar and required constant work.
 
If you are willing to do the maint they would probably last a lifetime if they are not subject to constant wetting. I would bet most are not willing to do the maint so it's easier to use something else. After all sailing ships in the old days were wood and lived in sea water however they were coated in tar and required constant work.

Good info. Thanks!
 
Oil finishes are the best for wood. Epoxy is the worst.

Finishing with oil not only adds protection from water, but also soaks in and protects around the pin hole so moisture will have little to no effect on the scales. This type of finish should always be used on the exotic woods that naturally expel oil such as Ebony, Rosewood and others.

CA finishes are bullet proof, as described earlier, and are a great substitute on the oily exotic woods, if you prefer a gloss finish.

Oil finishes can be made to have a gloss by using Poly or Laquer over top of it. The reason this works is because you normally don't put a gloss finish on the inside of the scale and the wood can still breath.

The problem I have encountered with using Epoxy is it not only eventually discolors, but also chips and shrinks in time. If used on the Oily woods it will start to release at some point and you will need to refinish it again. Epoxy looks wonderful when you first get it, but it doesn't stay that way. I wouldn't use it for any of our items like scales and brush handles. Just my own experience.

Ray

http://www.straightrazorsharp.com

Great points Ray!


I think wood as with horn in most cases have the higher likely of the material being ruined if not properly maintained.
 
Oil finishes are the best for wood. Epoxy is the worst.

Finishing with oil not only adds protection from water, but also soaks in and protects around the pin hole so moisture will have little to no effect on the scales. This type of finish should always be used on the exotic woods that naturally expel oil such as Ebony, Rosewood and others.

CA finishes are bullet proof, as described earlier, and are a great substitute on the oily exotic woods, if you prefer a gloss finish.

Oil finishes can be made to have a gloss by using Poly or Laquer over top of it. The reason this works is because you normally don't put a gloss finish on the inside of the scale and the wood can still breath.

The problem I have encountered with using Epoxy is it not only eventually discolors, but also chips and shrinks in time. If used on the Oily woods it will start to release at some point and you will need to refinish it again. Epoxy looks wonderful when you first get it, but it doesn't stay that way. I wouldn't use it for any of our items like scales and brush handles. Just my own experience.

Ray

http://www.straightrazorsharp.com
Just stop & listen to one of the most competent guys around :thumbup1:

Scales are usually made from exotic wood / hard wood.
Hard wood handle water well.
IMO if a razor is so wet under prolonged periods that it ruins your wooden scales, you will well before that have had to experience a very rusty razor...
 
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