I love this thing, that's all folks.
DMT 600/1200 combo
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Glad to hear it, I have one on the way. 
I was at woodcraft last night picking up a green whetstone and they had a little handwritten sign that said the green was equivalent to a 2000 grit waterstone, which threw me off since the DMT chart says 1200 mesh. I gotta get a handle on what's what between mesh, grit, and microns
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- #4
I know one thin; going from the 1200 to the Norton 4K works real well.
http://www.faceters.com/askjeff/answer67.shtml
Above places 9 micron (green) at 1800 grit.
Basically, it's a jungle & manufacturers don't help much but instead throw around the various measurements & use them pretty much as it pleases them IMO.
And in the end, it's a lot more then grit only, it's scratch-patterns, speed of cutting & so on...
But that is what HAD is for
Did you guys get the 8" or 10"?
Is the 600 side coarse enough to flatten a hone or is it advisable to get a DMT 350 for this purpose such as the one depicted in Joels tutorial? My father has an old coticule which he wants me to have for razor sharpening but he has warned me that it is slightly concave.
DMT doesn't recommend to use anything finer for lapping then the 325.
If you just want to a lap one stone or a few, sandpaper is your best bet.
600 grit wet/dry on a flat surface does the trick
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- #9
I got the 8".
My 8" is on it's way... I'm pretty pumped because I can then hone some chips out of my great grandpa's razor and some others I want to fix up.
I love mine and use it for every razor. I just wish I hadn't used it some to lap hones initially as it definitely is not as fast of a cutter as it was before lapping stones.
That said, it still works fine for me though for the price (like $50 on amazon), I'm thinking of buying a new one so that I can save my old one for lapping still and use the new one for razors.
That said, it still works fine for me though for the price (like $50 on amazon), I'm thinking of buying a new one so that I can save my old one for lapping still and use the new one for razors.
Any one go from the DMT 1200 and finish on a coticule? I've a read little that the DMT 1200 leaves a rough edge after setting the bevel? Any comments on this?
Just last night I spent a good deal of time on my DMT 600/1200 making damn sure the bevel was good and set. After that I did a fairly abridged dilucot, did a few rounds on water and had a decent edge. Shaved well this morning but has room for improvement. This of course has nothing to do with the progression, but is par for the course with my coti honing so far. Usable but room for improvement. heh
I have a non-comboination coticule, I believe it's the La Grise vein, but not 100%. I was referring to setting a bevel via the DMT 1200, then starting the dilucot method on the coticule, strop, shave. Will you still end up with a coticule edge, or are the abrasions too great from the DMT to be removed by the dilucot method is what I guess I was asking. Sorry for the confusion.
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Yes, the edge will be from the coticule. After the work on the DMT extra-fine, I recommend following Bart's procedure of dulling on glass followed by bevel correction then dilucot or unicot.
So the dulling on the glass will not remove the established bevel. It will only dull the "edge"? Sorry if my terminology is not up to snuff. The bevel correction will be done via the coticule with slurry correct?
So tonight I will set the bevel on the:
DMT 1200---> Dull Edge--->Dilucot method on coticule--->Strop--->shave
What I did was DMT 600 ---> DMT 1200 ---> Dilucot
I just had a brand new x-course/fine Diasharp show up in the mail today. After a probably too brief break-in sesson on the 600 side I went to work setting the bevel.
Pulled out loop, lots o deep scratches. Then went to my tiny 6"x1.25" coticule and slurried up. Removed the scratches no problem.
How long it will take depends on your coticule. Happy honing.
Pulled out loop, lots o deep scratches. Then went to my tiny 6"x1.25" coticule and slurried up. Removed the scratches no problem.
How long it will take depends on your coticule. Happy honing.
Are you guys using the 600/1200 DMT with the interrupted surface? I'm looking for something to use for the rough blades before they go to the coticule. Is this what you would recommend? The interrupted surface kind of scares me.
*edit* It looks like I could get a separate Naniwa 400 and 1000 for about the same price as the DMT. Any thoughts on one vs. the other?
*edit* It looks like I could get a separate Naniwa 400 and 1000 for about the same price as the DMT. Any thoughts on one vs. the other?
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