I've been working on wet shaving and lathering techniques over the past few weeks while sticking with cartridge razors. I had my first DE shave this morning after some equipment arrived in the mail over the past few days (still waiting for a sampler pack from David at RazorBladesAndMore.com):
- Shaving Factory (Ming Shui) DE Razor
- Derby Blades
- Shaving Factory XS Boar Brush
- Target Home Porcelain Bowl
- Proraso (Bigelow) Creme
- Proraso Aftershave Splash
- Nivea Sensitive Balm
I showered for about 10 minutes, washing with Bigelow Mentha soap. The brush was soaking in warm/hot water while I was in the shower. I dried off while leaving my face wet, wetting again at the sink with warm water. I then squeezed out the brush and set to lathering some Proraso creme. I applied the lather and let it set on my face while I opened a Derby blade, inserted it in the razor, and tightened things down.
I began with a WTG pass, starting at the sideburns and working in, down to the jaw line. I stayed WTG above the lip and on the chin. I then went XTG across each jawline ridge and ATG up the neck. This is my traditional cartridge face map, knowing the directions my air grows.
I ended up with an extremely comfortable but mediocre shave. No nicks, cuts, or weepers and only one scratch on my neck from the end/corner of the blade. Since I didn't have anywhere to be today, I got brave and re-lathered and went ATG everywhere. Again, no nicks or cuts but a bit of upper-lip redness/irritation. I was probably subconsciously adding undue pressure as well, causing the upper lip redness. The resulting shave was closer, but still not cartridge close. I touched up a few spots, but figured I'd call it a day before I got frustrated and made a bloody mistake.
I know I have a lot of technique to develop, but I also think the Ming Shui + Derby combo might be overly mild, even for a complete beginner. I tried my best to maintain zero pressure, but the razor/blade combo was removing very little hair and not very closely at all. Under inspection, there is extremely little exposed blade. I played with the mechanism and found that a 1/4 turn loosening exposed more blade and shallowed the blade angle, but given the overall build quality I was afraid to make a pass like this in fear of it loosening further and causing a huge gash. The razor is also rather light, weighing in at only 50 grams, and balances about 20% of the way down the handle.
I know I should continue to develop my technique with minimal changes to other variables, but I've tracked down a good deal on a '70s Super Adjustable from a B&B member... I think this would be a better built, heavier razor with actual adjustment mechanism for me to dial in the amount of blade exposure I need for a real close shave. I think I'm going to bite and continue trying the Derby blades in that razor before I move to the sampler pack. If I can't get where I want with the Super Adjustable + Derby with the 8-9 blades I have left, then I'll move into the sampler and see where I get. Anyone see error in this line of thought?
A smooth, close (not necessarily BBS), and consistent shave is my end goal. I'm not adverse to investing to get there, but I'm hoping I have most of what I need to get there without any more major purchases, and would love it if the economy of DE blades could recoup the modest upfront cost.
- Shaving Factory (Ming Shui) DE Razor
- Derby Blades
- Shaving Factory XS Boar Brush
- Target Home Porcelain Bowl
- Proraso (Bigelow) Creme
- Proraso Aftershave Splash
- Nivea Sensitive Balm
I showered for about 10 minutes, washing with Bigelow Mentha soap. The brush was soaking in warm/hot water while I was in the shower. I dried off while leaving my face wet, wetting again at the sink with warm water. I then squeezed out the brush and set to lathering some Proraso creme. I applied the lather and let it set on my face while I opened a Derby blade, inserted it in the razor, and tightened things down.
I began with a WTG pass, starting at the sideburns and working in, down to the jaw line. I stayed WTG above the lip and on the chin. I then went XTG across each jawline ridge and ATG up the neck. This is my traditional cartridge face map, knowing the directions my air grows.
I ended up with an extremely comfortable but mediocre shave. No nicks, cuts, or weepers and only one scratch on my neck from the end/corner of the blade. Since I didn't have anywhere to be today, I got brave and re-lathered and went ATG everywhere. Again, no nicks or cuts but a bit of upper-lip redness/irritation. I was probably subconsciously adding undue pressure as well, causing the upper lip redness. The resulting shave was closer, but still not cartridge close. I touched up a few spots, but figured I'd call it a day before I got frustrated and made a bloody mistake.
I know I have a lot of technique to develop, but I also think the Ming Shui + Derby combo might be overly mild, even for a complete beginner. I tried my best to maintain zero pressure, but the razor/blade combo was removing very little hair and not very closely at all. Under inspection, there is extremely little exposed blade. I played with the mechanism and found that a 1/4 turn loosening exposed more blade and shallowed the blade angle, but given the overall build quality I was afraid to make a pass like this in fear of it loosening further and causing a huge gash. The razor is also rather light, weighing in at only 50 grams, and balances about 20% of the way down the handle.
I know I should continue to develop my technique with minimal changes to other variables, but I've tracked down a good deal on a '70s Super Adjustable from a B&B member... I think this would be a better built, heavier razor with actual adjustment mechanism for me to dial in the amount of blade exposure I need for a real close shave. I think I'm going to bite and continue trying the Derby blades in that razor before I move to the sampler pack. If I can't get where I want with the Super Adjustable + Derby with the 8-9 blades I have left, then I'll move into the sampler and see where I get. Anyone see error in this line of thought?
A smooth, close (not necessarily BBS), and consistent shave is my end goal. I'm not adverse to investing to get there, but I'm hoping I have most of what I need to get there without any more major purchases, and would love it if the economy of DE blades could recoup the modest upfront cost.